Andy,
Well on idealism of biofuel. 4 strokers need oil too and not much less thain 2 strokers.
There are 5 liters of oil in my car neading yearly change. I need to add at least about 2 liters per year, so 7 liters or about 2 gal of oil per year. Thats allmost enough to run a 2 stroke, if mixed.
My dad used to run all sorts of oils in his moped, premixed. It run well eaven on chainsaw oil.
He says there is sbsolutley no harm to a engine useing regular motor oil. Only downside is it sometime sinks to the bottom and it burns less complete. Not a problem in injected engines.
Bill, are you thinking charcoal or wood? I see no problem with charcoal, however water or antifreeze injection will be a must, for flame speed.
A chain saw is 50:1 mix.
My car holds about one gallon of oil.
That would be good for 50 gallons of assoline.
I change my oil about 4000 miles
Get about 25mpg, guessing
4000/25=160 gallons of assoline
Hmmmm.
Gentleman. Back onto the topic of woogasing/chargasing a 2-stroke crankcase pumping single cylinder engine . . . .
Mine are all lower end open roller and ball bearing types. No problem with clean air/gasoline and special aircooled rated oil.
What are the soots/deposits in DIYmade-gasious doing to these bearings?
Well, you need very good gas cleaning, same standard than the air filter for the original carburetor.
If it is only soot, it will thicken up the oil and you have less lubricating action.
But for charcoal gas, the particles in the gas are not soot but rather fine char and ash particles. Theese have a grinding action.
All particles will sum up to some degree in the crankcase before they are maybe finally caught be the gas flow to the cylinder.
So good filtering with a good cloth/paper filter is more essential than for a 4-stroke.
Regards,
Til
Good point Steve. I have never thought about that. How are the bearings getting lubed with mixed gas? They run at such high rpm’s. As I understand it, the 2 stroke oil is burned with the gas.
In my understanding, it is like this: The 2-stroke-mix enters the crankcase together with the air as a kind of mist or spray. During operation, the crankcase is getting warm, so the petrol evaporates leaving the oil behind. The oil is deposited on the surfaces. A few drips are enough for ball and roller bearings. They don’t need to be absolutely soaked Also enough for the piston. Remember, there are oil scraper rings in 4-stroke pistons to avoid that too much oil comes up at the side of the pistons.
Some bearings may have kind of oil catchers, using centrifugal forces.
Old 2-stroke engines with friction bearings or need more oil, so they need a mix of 1:25…1:33 instead of 1:50…1:100 (enough for modern engines with good oils).
Of course, a part of it is always carried away and combusted, but new oil is constantly coming in with the petrol.
I have an older motorcycle with a single cylinder 250ccm two stroke engine, which I overhauled. After running in with 1:50, I reduced the ratio to 1:75. When I opened the crankcase, there was enough oil everywhere. The piston an rings were oily, the crankshaft and rod and even a small lake of oil at the bottom.
Too much oil just causes an “octopus-effect” because of a smokey exhaust and unnecessary carbon deposits on piston, piston-rings and exhaust without any benefit for the bearing-life.
Allso the air/perol/oil mix is compressed, pushing it in the bearing.
However, my tared up motor showed a interasting pattrn inside, the crankcase was teribly dirthy, but the crankshaft was only dirthy on the outhet edge. This is due to centrifugal forces.
Allso, oil injected engines are supposed to use less of it becouse the oil droplets are bigger and tend to stick better to the components.
A big advantige of 2 stoke engines is their compression can easyaly be boosted. As a kid, laying sand paper on a peace of glass and drinding the heads bottom was done often. For my chargas moped l raised the compression from 1:9 to 1:13 and it realy worked great for chargas.
Bean oil, some of us still use it in racing because its the best Lubricant out there.
When cold bean oil is not interesting at all.
But heat it in an engine and it starts to polymerize and thicken.
AS it heats, cooks and polymerizes it becomes a better lubricant.
I mix it with some synthetic oil in my methanol motors to provide some top end lubricity.
Two strokes are not that easy to modify and increasing compression leads to melt downs in them more often than not.
I would not even try to soup one up to be honest. ( unless you REALLY know what you are doing )
There was a 2 stroke diesel used in outboards in the 60s ( also a chainsaw ) that used a second piston to push air only and scavenge the power cylinder.
There are some OP engines with an oil sump that used a blower to scavenge.
There were also some 2 stroke case scavenged engine like this that might be worth trying.
This is a semi diesel and would need a new head made for SI
Well, we are talking woodgas here. There is far less filling ratio so with woodgas a 14:1 compression engine will have much lower pressure/temperature thain the same engine runing on petrol.
As for modifying, you are right. One wuld think they are much simpler thain 4 strokers, but there is a art to modifying them. The part people often missundertand is the exhaust. Cut off the exhaust on a 4 stroke. A slight increase of power occurs. Cut of a exhaust pipe on a 2 stroke, you made a barely runing mess. A proper 2 stroke exhaust is in fact acting as a turbocharger, and aids to power, fuel economy and ecology.
The OP design is probably the best choice.
Turbo charged.
Really smart fellow could probably design a tuned intake and exhaust that would allow the engine to run with a small supercharger using little boost.
But it would run best at only one speed
Thinking real hard now and I seem to recall there were some commercial application for two stroke semi diesel with gas producers.
I am thinking it was lanz that made the producer powered tractors.
I have wanted one of these big bore Andoria engines for years.
Can’t buy these in Canada but I imagine this would be the best choice for a dual fuel producer powered tractor.
Every video on the subject seems to come with a lot of swearing,
Added:
I decided to visit the Andoria site and they are still making the hopper cooled stationary engines.
I wish I could buy one…
I used to import and sell engine and now it so hard to get around the emissions regulations.
I imagine it will not be long before Poland adopts the EU standards and they are gone too. http://www.andoria.com.pl/andoria-mot/photo/andoria/s321.html
That is an 4 stroke diesel engine, single cylinder, big bore yes but no need to despair… now they are made by Yanmar , Kobuta and more… even with electric start…
Here a clip where i make an old Yanmar “snif” charcoal gas…
No modifications where made so you can hear the little “knacky” sound
Hello Kohen:
I know that made this same basic type in many countries and there are different versions.
Some of the best are from Japan and some of the worst are Chinese.
Before the CEPA banned the import of the non compliant types from China a lot of very bad engines were sold here and people will not touch one from Asia now even if it does say Kubota.
Another problem Most of the Japanese will not support these engines if imported to Canada.
They will not sell you parts to an engine with a serial number that complies to a Canadian product ( this is to reduce competition from used imports )
On the other hand if you buy an Andoria, Farrymen or one of the other well known brands from Eroupe you can buy parts for dealers and get them imported.
Its harder the other way around from Asia.
I buy my Honda parts from a dealer in Thailand.
Duetz is not very happy with me because I imported clone FLW912 clone from KOEL and sold them as knock down kits and parts.
Their dealer network will also not support licensed product form Asia ( they really do not like me, serving me with a cease and desist order in 2004 )
I think the design can be traced back to Duetz too.
Interesting to watch you can see this is a match light engine and needs a burning wick to cold start.
Some of these engines use a pre-cup Recardo type combustion chamber ( easier to cold star )
Some use a DI head and these are better for dual fuel and wood gas. ( Andoria types are DI engines )
I am going to post one more video of a very interesting engine I know nothing about.
This is a Sato from japan made in the 30s, hot bulb semi diesel two stroke case scavenged and all that good stuff that relates back to the being of the thread.
This might work with wood gas .
And its preheated with charcoal…
I wish I had one of these.
I keep finding cool stuff
Bulldog crawler overhaul where you see some of the interesting details of this engine’s construction.
and not much less thain 2 strokers.
