one of these , for a single cylinder engine, waterdrip feeder, works as a charm for few $ only
or one of these
or one of these
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Hi Koen, I went WOW!! those are expensive. Then I looked closer and realized, that is not US dollar $ sign being displayed.
Bob
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Hi Bob, about 30 Thb to 1US$
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They are around 8 bucks on Amazon. But I found just using the crank case vent to pressurize the tank works for basically free. Just a hose is all that is needed. My filler neck and cap are NPT so you just loosen the cap to relieve over pressure.
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Remember that I don’t know what I’m talking about but if the point of the water drip is to crack the water molecules into hydrogen and Oxygen then what if you did that outside the reactor and then fed the hydrogen gas into it. One of my sons made a hydrogen generator similar to this just to see it make gas and then flare it. This devise could be mounted onto a gasifier and using the generator either on AC or keep a battery charged would make hydrogen gas that could be directly fed into the reactor.
Making enough hydrogen gas to actually do significant work is beyond the abilities of most DIYers but as a supplement may have some value.
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The hydroxyl radical, •OH, is the neutral form of the hydroxide ion (OH−). Hydroxyl radicals are highly reactive (easily becoming hydroxy groups) and consequently short-lived. They form an important part of radical chemistry.
Could be meaningful
CO + OH → CO2 + H
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Hi Tom,
Let me give you an answer to that…
It takes 100% energy input to get max 70% energy returned from water to Hydrogen/oxygen if you use the system from your link posted ( any system that uses electrolysis for a fact )
The gasification reactors however do provide a way to convert water into useable energy , far more efficient, as it is a normal part of the reaction process and it can be optimized by using waste heat from the combustion engine plus giving some needed cooling/balance for the exothermic processes.
The heat from the combustion engine does not provide sufficient leftover energy to turn water in a free Hydrogen/oxygen mixture.
As a good positive example, we could use some of the extra power available from the gasifier, at times when less engine power to drive is needed, to charge a capacitor bank with a generator attached on the engine and an hybrid electric motor installed to use the stored energy from the capacitor banks when acceleration or that little extra power is needed…
been there, doing that in many different ways… endless fun in doing and exploring options…
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Henry,
I prefer C + 2OH → 2CO + 2H
Same process, different temps, different pressures, different dwell times…
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Hi Matt
in a multi-cylinder engine is there also an exploitable overpressure in the oil sump?
are it only the single cylinders that produce pressure in the crankcase?
Thierry
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Hi Koen
are these pumps connected to the engine intake?
and will they work with a four cylinder?
Thierry
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Hi Tom, first of all , I have built the so called hydrogen fuel and the famous Joe cells. They do not make Just Hydrogen. They make a oxygen/hydrogen mix. Very explosive mix. That is why they must have a flash back devices on them. Second the power in to make the gases is more than the power out on the production end. Do not waste your time doing it. The cost to make a true hydrogen generator that separates the hydrogen from the oxygen with a special membranes is expensive and again power cost to make it is more than you get out of it in hydrogen gases.
It is a waste of good money. It does not work like they claim. The electrical power in does not even come close to the energy made out. That’s My + $100.00 worth on it.
Bob
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Thanks for the schooling guys. I also see the error in my thinking about amending the combustion air in the gasifier itself. All the various automotive systems I’ve been hashing over such as methanol injection occur at nearly the point of use, not in the main fuel supply. In a carb engine, usually between it and the manifold. With wood or char gas as the primary fuel. I guess I will experiment with some sort of pressurized injection in the wood gas air/fuel mixer since a small engine carb is mainly just a venturi sucking gas up from the float bowl. Unless someone has already debunked that theory.
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This has steam intake to gasifier . Does not specify engine vacuum controlling amount of steam or tuning of this system .
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Yes if you close off the PVC on any engine it will build up pressure and blow out ever seal on the engine. This why it is there.
PCV > Positive Crank Case Vent it is a positive pressure.
If you pressurize a tank just simply as an adjustable vent to your tank. Look to Pneumatic air cylinder control valves. They have precise adjustable valves that would work perfect for this. However you do not need to pressurize the tank, you only need to agitate it to prevent surface tension of the fluid. Gravity is still good enough unless you are looking to spray, In that case I would be better to use a pump of sorts with a return line to tank.
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Yes if you close off the PVC on any engine it will build up pressure and blow out every seal on the engine. This why it is there.
PCV > Positive Crank Case Vent it is a positive pressure.
If you pressurize a tank just simply use an adjustable vent to your tank. Look to Pneumatic air cylinder control valves. They have precise adjustable valves that would work perfect for this. there are meter in and meter out valves. So you will want the ones that meter out. However you do not need to pressurize the tank, you only need to agitate it to prevent surface tension of the fluid. Gravity is still good enough unless you are looking to spray, In that case I would be better to use a pump of sorts with a return line to tank.
I attached a mini shop vac to my pcv valve . Just because so many other parts were not working , I had no understanding of how many things were broken . But I was still operating unit and producing power for a short period of time .
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If it is not broken it does not have enough features .
You will never have these problems
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I dont know for sure but I think if you injected steam into the gas after it exits a raw fueled gasifier it would be more effective in the cooling stage to drop out more moisture and tar. The condensing process is a cooling process and if there is no moisture to drop it is un effective.
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I have another part . after another part . both useless . one is a pipe going under water . other is 30 gal drum that should catch moisture and tar but wood gas is to hot for it to do anything. Then I have a hay filter . I have no idea what is left in there .
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