Kevin, I don’t drive it a whole lot–maybe 12 miles every 2 weeks. Before this filter is a cyclone which gets rid of much of the fine dust. I have a 7 gallon steel bucket with clamp-lock lid for a filter housing. In the bottom, where the gas enters, there is about 10-12 inches of pine needles resting on a stainless screen, next is about 2 inches of a mattress fiber fill material. Above that is the 3 inches of foam rubber, and on top of that is one thickness of wool blanket material under a final stainless screen before the gas outlet which is on the bucket lid. Every trip or two I’ll take out the fiber fill material and hit it against something to knock out the dust. That is the element which collects the most dust. I’ve only cleaned the foam rubber once. I’m thinking that there is not much dust left for it to collect. I’ll replace the pine needles maybe once a year. I will wash the wool occasionally when it gets a grey tint. Perhaps my filter could be improved, but it seems to work well enough.
A lot of the WW2 gasifiers used a series of progressive filters after the Cyclone: Hay, then Sisal/Jute/Flax, and then a cloth filter if it used one. It seems an order from roughest to finest will help get all the crud out of the gas. Jan sees a benefit using his puffed clay balls, Arvid Olson used lava rocks, I think those will make a good Hot filtration.
I want to experiment with that idea of a hot rough filtration and then a cooled down finer filtration.
Edit: an example from the Wisco gasifier that I share a lot
Gess i will at leiste try some open cell foam on top of my hay filters, Lots of good filter ideas, Thanks Cody AND OTHERS on filter ideas and maintainance.
For the cooling situation on the Cavalier, I’m thinking of utilizing the backglass area. It would be following the angle that the backglass tilts at, which is probably about 40 or 35 degrees just trying to remember off the top of my head.
Just a classic Prison Bars style radiator, flowing from the bottom up. I’m thinking the rail condensate tank won’t be in direct line of gas flow, but instead I’ll use a T intersection. Gas would naturally want to follow directly up through the radiator, but heavier moisture will fall down through the T into the tank. My main reason for this idea is to keep hot gas from boiling the condensate. The gas having to flow upwards will also hopefully reduce any moisture going into the filter, but I should still install drains just in case.
I will be getting a generic roof rack to put on the car, for dry day bag storage on longer trips, or whatever. That’s a long ways ahead though.
At leiste you got one working, i tore my other two apart, too build desiign changes, though they worked good, just trying too camifloge my designs a little better, and some regular guts design changes from my first design. gas is getting too costly i hate too drive my vibe around the block, just too pay the exstortioners pockets. It will all be over before long, and i hope i am one of the one that get raptured too heaven, before the destruction of XXX countrys by allmighty god, just like sodom and gomora.
Changed two of the valve stems on the Cavalier. Driver’s Front kept slowly leaking. Used the kit featured in this video and it’s freaking awesome.
Definitely need some silicone grease to help it along it made a world of difference.
That would be a nice trick out on the road, tool kit, this should be in the tips & tricks, i think it could be made less than 40 bucks TOO.Thanks for posting.
Ignition cylinder is broken again.
Now it’s only freely spinning and not catching.
I can’t remove the tumbler now because it won’t engage the button to pull it out.
I really hate 90s Anti Theft systems, prone to breakage.
I have no clue how I’m supposed to replace the tumbler if I can’t remove the old one. I’m willing to buy a new one, for 200 dollars, but I have no way to remove the old one now, the standard method of setting the key to “On” and depressing the button won’t work. The ignition basically over-rotated and now it only freely spins with no engagement.
Also as far as I know, there’s no way to hotwire these to run without the ignition.
It appears that it’s stuck in the On position but I can’t remove the tumbler. Something is broken internally.
Is there any way too bypass the switch and lock, and wire in too old style ig swich and just use steering wheel too brake pedal lock. Or maybe too much rigging too go that rought. sorry too here the lemon tumbler problems. I never heard of one doing the free rotate in the tumbler, though i think i need too change the ig switch or tumbler in my 3500 chevy 1991 truck, i had too put a starter button on the dash, after the key stoped working the starter.
After 1995 they added the Passlock anti theft. If I hook the battery back up the car is left in the On position but I can’t crank the starter.
It doesn’t have a bar either so I can’t jiggle the bar to try to free it up. I guess the locking lugs broke in the tumbler.
You’re supposed to rotate it to the On Position and push down on a button to release the tumbler but it won’t push down all the way. I don’t think drilling it out will help.
Basically what happened was I tried to start the car today to keep the battery charged and something snapped, over rotated, and now it’s just free spinning.
If I can get the old one out then I’ll just buy a new tumbler even if it’s a highway robbery price of 200 bucks.
I’m gonna need to remove the steering wheel to see if I can dismount the entire ignition switch area and drill out the locking lug to put a new one in.
It might be cheaper too replace the whole steering coulm, not sure, depending on your salvage yard prices.
I’m sure you have checked Youtube Cody but I looked just to find out why it’s such a problem. Anyway I stick this video on here just in case.
Won’t work that’s a different generation
I’d love to just set this car up for push button and physical switches. But I’d need a whole new engine computer to do that.
I doubt a 1995 computer will work with a 1996.
That would be too much rewiring time, If this problem is not that common, i would just change steering coulom with a new key, and problem fixed, it should not be too hard too find a deal on an older vehicle as a 96 model, i can check around here, but shipping mighjt be too high unless get less parts smaller. package.
I’m gonna try to save this steering column. If I can get it on my bench I can Dremel out the old tumbler.
Good luck getting the tumbler out, I got a 05 caveleer, i hope it dont have a bad tumbler, it does have some sort of electrical problem, i forgot what it was,maybe it was the turn signals not working.
I got it out! Stupid little thing. Finally!
Turning the ignition switch manually, the car will start and then die after a few seconds. Not sure if my battery got drained and the jump box can’t supply enough or what. All the lights including cabin light flickers before it dies.
Edit: It’s the Passlock system since I don’t have the cylinder in place anymore. I’ll have to buy a new one, 238 friggin dollars!
Oh well.
New cylinder will be matched to my original key.