Somewhat related to DOW but I was sad to find out Marvel Mystery Oil doesn’t go into solution with alcohol fuel above E30. Tested it last night with some 99% alcohol and it just floats to the top instead of mixing like it does with guzzoline. Looks like if I go E100 in the Mazda with a spare carb I’ll need to find another fuel treatment to keep the jets clean.
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Cody this may interrupt your building topic a bit, but you did bring up pump fuel costs.
Washington State. We used to have added state roads tax and Federal Government road tax.
18 cents a gallon for the one. 28 cents a gallon for the the other.
NOW we have an escalating 50 cents a gallon “Carbon Tax” added in on top of these.
California is worse. Cross the border from Oregon to California and pay $1.00 a gallon more.
Washington State for most all of my driving lifetime we had a revenue generating ANNUAL 7% of the current value of the vehicle Excise Tax. I’ve had to pay in thousands of dollars on this annual tax to keep vehicle legal licensed. Driving old junk was the only way to reduce this.
This had evolved from a temporary measure for-roads-repairs usage tax put in place the 1930’s, to a European style VAT tax to drive.
Value Added Tax. A social services revenue generator.
The difference between European countries acknowledging not having any domestic controllable petroleum bleeding out their wealth to foreign empires . . .
WE, U.S.A. and Canada have always had domestic petroleum.
And still do.
So jacking up pump prices we do slam the Oil Companies as foul.
And now we will slam the elitist, minds bending, Social Engineers as foul too.
Steve Unruh
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It’s crazy because South Carolina doesn’t extract road tax from gas, or if it does it’s minimal. But even their prices are getting close to ours. It used to be worth the 30 minute drive to get a 50 cent difference but now it’s like a 10 or 15 cent difference.
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Back in the late 60’s my dad would drive around town looking for the gas station that would sale the gas for a penny or two less a gallon. Years later it was a known fact that all the gas stations owners would have breakfast at the restaurant and decide who would get to sale their fuel the cheapest for that month. The gas business men’s breakfast meetings. Do you smell price controlling in the town of Moses Lake Washington. Yup. Gas was at $00.23.9 a gallon back then. In other towns 50 miles away $00.21 a gallon. We had a big Gas storage farm just outside of the town. The pipe line came from Bosman Montana huge gas refineries.
Bob
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I’m tempted to try a double filter system. First being a fiberglass hot filter done up accordion style, instead of pleated so it’s less sewing or stapling. Then the cooling rail and a hay final filter to catch any moisture left in the gas. Hay filter will really be more of an insurance policy than anything else, I’ll probably lightly pack the hay to keep vacuum demand down.
But more importantly I need to get the main reactor finished.
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This is the same thing I am thinking about doing on my Jeep build Cody. Post any Ideas you have to build the hotfilter. I will do the same.
Bob
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I have a transformer case from a power line that Steve Bowman gave me. It used to be a garbage can of all things. I need to check for any leak holes. The lid uses tabs that lock down with a bolt. Bolt pulls tabs down and the tabs pull down on the lid. The inside of the lid has a lip where I can put in the gasket.
I’m going to follow Goran’s form factor and use a sheet metal wall to force the gas to go around down then through the bag filter. Same for using a perforated stand pipe that goes the length of the bag filter. The only thing I won’t do is the exact shape of the bag itself. The Mako looking charcoal gasifier that you can see on YouTube uses a more concertina accordion style bag filter. It’s gathered and reinforced with wires to hold it’s shape. Just means you sew the bag to the OD for the peak of the accordion and gather with wire for the valleys.
Here is Goran’s original drawing from his Hello from Sweden thread.
I might use a big fire extinguisher for my branching pipe to the hot filter. Super low velocity of exiting gasses to promote less movement of ash and char. I think it measures to be a 6" diameter pipe but I could be remembering wrong, need to measure again.
Either way I think it will compensate flow with the almost immediate restriction of a hot filter.
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CodyT the vertical pleats system will better release ash/soot cakes to fall to the bottom.
In and out pleats movements with on/off gas demands will drive this.
S.U.
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Yeah I’m second guessing my plan. That’s why I’m asking Goran how he sewed his together. I’ve seen Matt use staples to hold his hot bag filters together so I’m wondering if Goran did the same.
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This round pledged filter I have seen before the container sat so filter was on it’s side. Like Steve said the ash/soot would fall off easier and end up in the ash clean out in the bottom part of the filter container.
Bob
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I agree with Steve and Bob, this filter should lay-down, to not get clogged fast, anyway it is a good-performing, easy to make filter.
I think on www.gengas.nu there are some pic’s and drawings of filters like this, mostly/all in swedish, but pic’s are there
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Bought a welder’s blanket. It seems like a very tight weave. I can still see my hands silhouette through the fabric though.
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I could always use some of its own strands, or maybe staple it over in a double hem.
I think I will lay the transformer case sideways and do the accordion style. Less seams means less places for the seams to fail. Just need to find my 16ga wire and hunt around for some scrap rods and roll those into stiffening rings then bale around to secure the narrow portions. I really like the static standpipe you use so what I’ll do is lay the container with the lid facing the tailgate, this will be my clean out. The clean gas exit will go through the bottom and lead up to the cooling rails.
I have a 2"ID 90 degree gentle bend piece of Conduit so I can branch that in on a tangent to the filter.
I might try that either way, wouldn’t be a bad insurance policy on bad seams.
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I’ve used some red silicone in my filter, as “double safety” and it seems to hold up well, anyways it dont do any harm.
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Sorry if i hijack your thread Cody, just posting some thougts about “joining” fabric, this is something i want to try when repair my filter, thinking about cutting up, maybe thin copper pipe and press it together on the joint.
Made a little sketch, because i didn’t know how to explain exactly.
I think the pipe should protect the silicone, make it withstand even more heat.
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Personally I would use stainless steel, since heat anneals copper and brass so it might lose its grip on the seam. I think it could work well though!
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It’s what i suspect too… stainless should be the best, but it’s rather stiff and “springy” maybe it dont close tight enough?
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I’m not sure. I think if you were to see the silicone start to squeeze out then it should have a decent grip.
Another way you could try is to take sheet metal and flatten in a press. You would need a bending brake to start the bend and situate the filter seam inside, then press it down. Or do the same with the pipe, crush it down the entire way.
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I would think after the silicone drys it is not going to come a part that easy. If you staple it down the seam or sow it with fine wire it will hold.
I have done both. Using a leather stitching awle for stitching with fine wire.
Bob
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