COMMITMENT - Make wood-sweated DIY Engine Fuel for 365

Yes ChrisKY what I used 1977-1987. I gotten back into Mini-cars a lot then. 250-280 miles range was just not cutting it for the Western states traveling I was doing annually. I needed a bit more. And I did not want to fumes, fires, die hauling around a 150 miles range-extender in the open back cabin of my VW 1st Gen rabbit; the Ford Fiesta, and others. I would do 6000 feet elevation changes in hours. After 1987 it was a jeep can on the back of my Samurai. (A all steel body type. So, maybe the collision fire would stay outside long enough for a flee-run-away. By the mid-1990’s both of those cans were internally shedding badly and would clog up small engines.

For your wife; do like I did, and treat her to her own 2 1/2 gallon can. You then cross-filling that for her.
Steve Unruh

Edit Add: Excellent advice’s Wallace. And doing an interior oil swirl coating would help the empty siting around metal gasoline cans and boat tanks too. S.U.


Here’s a FYI video I came across on a wood moving sweat break. My Predator 9500 disassembled showing the front and back side of the inverter at 6:15-25

At 6:30 the little finned black box he is calling a “resistor” is actually the 12vdc charging diode bridge. I’ve already moved mine over to the other side corner cast aluminum bracket. The wire are plenty long enough.
And for stock system foam air filter servicing Gavins Garage shows just popping open the top cover air cleaner spring clip. One hand flexing open the top of that cover. Other hand snaking out the foam insert for cleaning.

On MattR’s woodgas converted unit video you can see he went in through the front cover unit to the all-metal air cleaner box. His modifications I consider proprietary in case he wants to offer up a conversion kit.

I puzzle why this converter guy thought that he needed to add a gasoline fuel shut off valve.
The factory Run <-> Stop knob only shuts off the gasoline to the carburetor. Does not turn off the ignition. Just do not put it into Start-Choke when on a gaseous fuel.


Hi Guys,
Another FYI excellent explaining video from a DIY guy who did connect up two Predator 9500’s to his all-electric home.
Yes.Yes. Very much for common US based home systems. Canada too?
Read the comments to for additional information’s.
Enable CC and read along to not miss his talking fast details.

You may need to click over to “Watch on YouTube”.

His name is Wallace too. But in Texas. This is #6 on a playlist on his home power systems details on his channel.
He says here instead of his custom build enclosure to adapt over a plastic outdoor shed. Ha! Noise. Plastic dampens noise better sheet steel. OSB dampens better than plywood. Plywood better than boards. IMHO


I got real tired of fighting with my old Generac. Getting it running is always a crap shoot. So until I can rework my welder/generator I decided to buy something that I know will keep my well pump working if we go grid down. Didn’t need an inverter for that. Wanted dual fuel and electric start. I know someone who has one of these and has no issues with it. Seemed like a deal. I see them for a hundred dollars more at the box stores.


@SteveUnruh is that generator you bought automatic start? The sigineer inverters I have been going with require an automatic start generator.

@tcholton717 that generator looks like a deal! Please report about how you like it.

@Wallace please describe the differences between the various 3750 watt chinee generators. I have what appears to be 3 identical generators (with various rebadging) and two cannot run the Lincoln migpak10, while one does.
@everyone does anyone have experience retro fitting the electric start package onto the 212 predator style engine in the 3750 generators?

@armchair fantasy mechanic league…should I install the Predator 13hp engine in the 1970 Skeeter 437 snowmobile?


Bruce, I only know about the electric start kits for the 212 engines themselves, but I know at least a couple years ago you couldn’t fit them on a 212 that had a Hemi head. Probably because HF sold two different clones under the same name.

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Cody, is there an external way of identifying one? I would like to set an electric starter on a 3750 watt generator.

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The only way I know of for the Predator 212 engines is the OHV cover. The Non Hemi has a stamped sheet metal cover and the Hemi has a cast aluminum cover. The Hemi isn’t CARB or EPA compliant for some wild reason so I highly doubt it’s on their generators.

Also do you mean the 4375 generators? I can’t find a 3750.

Some guy added a kit to his Predator 4000 9 years ago.

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This pretty typical of what I am talking about. This one says 4000 watt peak, 3500 running.

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That looks like a Honda clone. Maybe see if you can find out what taper the flywheel side of the crank shaft has?

If the clutch will mount to the engine and you have a otherwise useless Snowmobile, I’d certainly do it. Been many, many years since I had one. I would not have thought a four stroke would make enough RPM. They were all two strokes back in the day, but now I think most are four stroke.


Hi Bruce , i know i have said it before but for that style of generator its not cost effective for me when all i need is a cordless drill and a socket on the crank , never ever had a problem with starting using that way .



Hi back BruceJ,
No my Predator 9500 is a manual choke. Cable engaged in the last 1/8 CCW turning of the Combi knob between the RUN down to Start-Choke.
Has only one stepper motor on the gasoline carburetor for the throttle. The other brands offerings with remote starting by an RKE fob have a second stepper motor for the choke. Added temp sensor. Added separate low RPM signal coil. Added package of pre-programmed system to make it all works for full choke; part choke; clear flood.

Auto start you will need all of this plus Retry programming cycling between these modes until success or a counted out number of attempts to save the starter and battery.

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Ya, I don’t know who this guy is with the blurry camera, but he definitely is doing what I am interested in. His inverter probably has the same generator start circuit.

So what kind of engine is his?

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The starter is likely going to hit the steel frame of the generator ( this is across the board all generators in this class )

A 212 crankshaft is a stroker crank and its most likely got a different taper.
A 208 uses a standard stroke crank and it could go one way or the other.
A 196 is a standard engine.

Crank shafts are the difference, they all physically in each others blocks but they are not functionally the same.

The taper is the difference.
The simplest way I can tell you to check your new electric flywheel is the same as your old one is to put a coin in the hole.
Does it line up in the same place, if the taper is different you will see it.

Most generators have holes cast in the block for the starter and electric kit ( if equipped with charge coils and flywheel internal magnets.
But these probably are not tapped so you will need a metric tap ( 6mm I think coarse )

60363, 69720 have different taper 69730 is an earlier predator also a different taper,
Kohler engines all have the same taper.

This will probably work on all of them.
Check with a coin to compare.
Double check by cleaning the flywheel and crank and remove key.
A dab of valve grinding compound and seat the two together.
You should see more than 50% contact ( its not tight under tension its much fuller contact. )

If you have good contact proceed to lap it a bit more more and try to get it as little better.

Throw away flywheel key after a good lapping you won’t needed.
Look up how to time a clone and set timing at 25 btdc
Since this is a woodgas project ( most likely ) drop by your Honda dealer and see about the GX160 heads try and buy a used one or search scrap yards, or online.
You may was well optimize the engine for woodgas now that its apart…

There sometimes are issues with dowel pin from one head to another.
You can drill the head and or block to make these comparable.
Or you can just carefully assemble without any pins.
The pins are there to speed up assembly at the factory and serve no real function except to confuse and frustrate you.

Now your engine will burn premium and wood gas and crank electric or pull start.

I hope this helps.

automatic choke parts from the Kohler mower engines can be adapted to these engines.
Most lawnmowers use one of the other of these and they can be adapted to a clone generator.

This is early XT-6 ( i like this one )
This is the simplified current version

Its a big block.
Goofy valve cover so its a canted valve Chinese hemi of some type.
No better or worse than an inline valve engine just a little harder to work on for whats mostly a cosmetic difference from a Honda.

This is just a sugestion but you should have a remote start stop and not try and make an automatic start stop.
One requires you to pay attention to when and how long it runs and the other requires you to pay attention anyways because it might develop a problem and its questionable as to what might be going on unless you make a very substantial set of safety circuits to govern how it runs.
I think the latter is more trouble than its worth unless you know exactly what you want and how to build it. ( also the costs of things like Murphy switches, timers ect ect…


Small block honda clone can be identified by the way the gas tank mounts to the engine block
Most of the 212 engines ( but not all ) have square mounts for the tank.
The rest have a set of bull horn style mounts.
Internally differences are a bigger diameter cam bearings ( to make hotrod cam swaps more difficult ) and some minor cosmetic changes to the external parts of the casting around the cooling fins.

But some 212 engines are perfect copies of a Honda with a 70mm bore ( predator 636 the hemi is one of these identical casting bored to 70mm )

How much power do they put out
Reliably they can pull 2700 maybe 3000 watts without damaging themselves.
They might surge 4000 watts but can’t be relied upon to do that for more than a few seconds

This is a 212 with horn tank mounts but the modified block casting that has covered fins.
It might be a functionally stronger block,
older style 212 block square style engine tanks 70mm bore block
Heavy gusset clone block ( 223 engines look like this )
standard clone block

This is an old timer the HF grewhound block form the 00’s.
Honda sought an injunction from clones and this was the response an engine internally the same as a Honda but external different enough to fool the eye.
This is really hard to find gaskets for now because of the goofy valve cover

Image #3 the 223 heavy gusset block.
This engine is at the ragged end of how far you can push the design.
It was never meant to be this…
A contemporary Honda engine would be the mid block 240.
Call it that because of casting differences in the 240-270 compared to the 340-390.
They share similar but not identical larger blocks.
They can swap heads but not much else.

Do you really think you want that?
The 223 wildcat engine is rated at 7.5 hp the GX240 is rated at 7.9 hp
I want the big block because its bigger and stronger in every way but most importantly in the rod.
The small block rod was developed for the GX160 rated at about 5 hp


This does not really belong here but I want to show you a pretty cool piece of kit that’s hard to come by

This is. Sisson electric divorced choke.
These little beauties can be attached to an exhaust manifold and then its a simple matter of making a link to reach the choke on a small engine carb.
The electric part of this is not what your thinking ( a heater ) but rather a solenoid.
When you put power too it by cranking the engine the choke closes, when you release the starter circuit the by metal element takes over and slowly opens the choke as the engine warms.

These were on a lot of things ( like Dad’s 49 Plymouth ).
Kohler Onan Wisconsin and others used them.
If you see one on a scrap engine, now you know.
Darn handy of you need to improvise a choke.
You could even use this to enrich a woodgas carb I guess for starting since its electric.

I just did a web search to see if there is video of on a nice old 230 Chrysler flat head for demo of operation and adjustment and it turns no one has ever made such a video I guess.
This means I will pull out something and start it for you guys so you can see this nifty little thing in operation.
Bugger I don’t have a Youtube account scratch that.
You just going to have to find a Chrysler service manual from 1936 to 1954 or so and read up on it.

What I did find is another gold painted unit for sale on Ebay.
The seller is selling one off a Kohler post 1965.
Maybe he knows maybe he does not.
Its not a Mopar part and I think there may be a difference difference between the two.
Chrysler of that era were 6 volt and generators tend to be 12


Just make an account, it’s free.

Its the principle of the thing, its not free.
The sell your personal information.
Your forfeit your ownership of the video by joining.
They monetize and capitalize on your intellectual property.

This place is a little different.
The owner of the site pays for it out of his own pocket through the money made from books and memberships.
But he still makes it free to anyone to use a majority of the website.

That’s why I am here and not on Youtube


You could use Bitchute, or Vimeo, or Odysee, a myriad of other video hosting sites.

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