# Dakota engine question

**URL:** http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/dakota-engine-question/7045
**Category:** General Discussion
**Created:** [November 27, 2022, 8:58pm UTC](http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/dakota-engine-question/7045 "2022-11-27T20:58:42Z")
**Posts on this page:** 4
**Page:** 2

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### Author: ![JocundJake](http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/jocundjake/32/55227_2.png) [@JocundJake](http://forum.driveonwood.com/u/JocundJake)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2022, 11:07pm UTC](http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/dakota-engine-question/7045/21 "2022-12-05T23:07:20Z")

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I can usually find them around the southeast In good condition all working for under 3 grand. so that seems a little steep to me. I find ones that need work for under 1000 that is usually what I look for.  
I have never messed with the newer year models.

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### Author: ![Wayne](http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/wayne/32/9839_2.png) [@Wayne](http://forum.driveonwood.com/u/Wayne)
#### Post date: [December 5, 2022, 11:58pm UTC](http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/dakota-engine-question/7045/22 "2022-12-05T23:58:10Z")

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Hi Gary

Below is a thread that may help.

> [@1997-2003 Dakota](https://forum.driveonwood.com/t/1997-2003-dakota/6519/6):
>
> The construction videos on timing advance show in detail how to manipulate the timing. It is not very hard to do this on the dakotas but a pita if it is the full size half ton dodges. After 96 there is a shock absorber that is located where the gasifier is mounted and has to be relocated to the rear of the axle . Kevin says that is no problem. I think as long as you have the 318 or the 360 motor you are good . The 4.7 L did not seem to work out. The vehicle has to be warmed up a little …

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### Author: ![Norman89](http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/norman89/32/39575_2.png) [@Norman89](http://forum.driveonwood.com/u/Norman89)
#### Post date: [December 23, 2022, 4:49pm UTC](http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/dakota-engine-question/7045/23 "2022-12-23T16:49:26Z")

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Took me a while to find it I knew tony had a video on this subject

[![](https://img.youtube.com/vi/ZxHmKv-4zGY/maxresdefault.jpg "Magnum vs. LA. Side By Side Comparison") ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxHmKv-4zGY)

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### Author: ![Bumpa](http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/bumpa/32/39379_2.png) [@Bumpa](http://forum.driveonwood.com/u/Bumpa)
#### Post date: [December 23, 2022, 9:42pm UTC](http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/dakota-engine-question/7045/24 "2022-12-23T21:42:38Z")

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Norman, thanks for looking that up. It was very informative to a chevy guy who has never taken a Mopar motor apart. I just bought a 97 Dakota with the 5.9 that has a rear main seal leaking. For a thousand bucks, I figured I couldn’t go wrong. I have a lift in my heated shop so it shouldn’t be too bad. After watching this video I am going to have to control myself because I REALLY want to get out the die grinder and open up those intakes.

I have also really enjoyed reading your Chevotafire and V10 threads. Reminded me of my Chevy LUV pickup I stuffed a sbc into years ago. I got pretty good at replacing those Saginaw 4 speed transmissions, I couldn’t afford a Muncie and Saginaws were cheap.

Anyway, I got my firetube yesterday and will start welding on it after Christmas. I will also have to dig my car hauling trailer out to go pick up the Dakota. It is out at my hunting land in a snowbank and it is -3 right now with 23 mph winds, so I think I will wait a few days. Weatherman says we are going to get above freezing next week.

Thanks again,  
Garry C

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