The speed control should work like a balance, on one side we pre-tension the spring, on the other side the engine reaches the same force with centrifugal weights by increasing the speed, thus achieving balance,… The deviation to the left or right (closed or open) should be as easy as possible and with the shortest possible lever, thus we get very precise speed control.
A few days ago I bought 10 small bearings, maybe I will use them to mount the flap
For the last couple years I’ve been looking for my stripper pliers with the green handles. Now I know where they are 
in the moment i make experiments with different level hight of the water reservoir under the hair - sheep or horse- filter for keeping the filter medium umid during whole engine run…as we had observed with the garden tiller, that best filtering results are when air umidity is high…this keeps the filter material a bit umid continously…
yesterday i have readed a bit around in old topics and there was the idea from someone to add a water bubbler instead of water dripping and other methods in primary air…this but will be a very good solution for umidifying too dry secondary air for keeping the filter material umid…in my system no problem, because i add secondary air to the gas always before rubber tubing and hair filters to lower the temperature ( the valve on the motor intake before throttle block is only for starting easy )
in some historic plants i have seen they sended the gas also through water or thight over the water surface for cleaning (and than over oil surface)
adding some water in the hopper when having too dry coal helps a while ( or make a mess when it is too much) but after time the umidity disappears and the filter medium dries out too much…adding continous umidity to secondary air with a bubbler or other systems could resove the problem with too dry- or drying out- filter medium…
Giorgio,
I understand that higher humidity in the gas dampens the filter media and causes fine dust to stick to the media instead of being carried past the filter. But I have heard different ones mentioning problems with damp gas, two being difficulty lighting a flare and starting an engine. I use a water drip to give more power, but probably use less water than I could in order to avoid problems with damp gas. So, how should I reconcile the positives and negatives with damp gas. I have had a problem with fine dust and wonder if this is the way to go to eliminate it or not. What comments do you and others have about this concern?
My thods are, the gas shuld be as dry as possible. Water vapour can represent up to 10% of the volume of gas at 100% saturation, this means, if you have enaugh moisture for the droplets to start moisturising the filter (over 100% relative humidity-dew point), your gas is diluted 10%.
Then there are problems also with parts corroding.
But in an updraft, this is hard to acive, one of the reasons l always go downdraft. So since you got the gas diluted and damp anyways, might as well use what you got.
There is a venturi operated gas scrubber l designed for my Chevrolet Lacetti, will try to find it… worked well. Its well documented here, will try to find it.
Found it. As you can see, the venturi pulled a good amount if water with it but without the resistance of a bubbler. Constantly washing the filter.
I started washing the dust out of my char a ways back Steve. Kind of a PITA to have to dry it then but it eliminated a lot of problems I was having. Of course I just run updraft charcoal so simple anyway. I just use a water drip into the nozzle.
steve, when i worked recently with the motorcultivator, i added steam of the nozzle cooling water with a tube to the gas cooler, because there is a screw for washing…this for keeping the filter humid…this done for a while , and than for a while not, but seems not has had influenced the power…this moisture was a lot, and is not needed so much quantity, i think…when i opened than the horizontal hair filter, a lot of water comes out, condensed there…
when the moisture that keeps the filter humid, can condense in the filter or after the filter somewhere, is good…
what say our woodgassers here?
they have much moisture in the gas, on some builds is a moisture condenser near the engine with drain possibility, when i am not wrong…
i have never had so much moisture in the coal that i cannot flare or water drops appeared, but with a certain amount of moisture the spark plug gets a bit on it and this can make difficult with starting…so it requires some minutes ventilating with open hopper (observations with the garden tiller) and drying spark plug…
when this would be a problem, so a solution could be starting the engine without bubbler or whatever system, than , with a ball valve opening moisture producer and closing the direct air channel.
actually the filter medium, sheep wool or horse hair, i really press in the filter housing, and this is not a ostacle for gas flow…
further results when working with the engines, in the moment we wait for good hay weather, but is not yet…
the goal is best filtering as possible, of course…the throttle shows us the truth…
most experiments we make with the garden tiller, because runs often in the end of winter for keeping weeds down…sometimes air humidity is very high, sometimes really dry days…and a additional problem is that on so little mobile engines cannot be packed a lot of filters on…recently my son tillered, power was not so good, sometimes ignition interrupted a bit, but maybee normal, old motor and ignition…we suspected too much moisture, hearth clogg up, and so on, but always the same symptoms, only some ignition interruptions more… at least it was not to start more, .it comes out than that the coil began to become bad…we changed it, and actually runs fine…also this is a point when making observations and changing things in the gas system…is the motor itself ok in all his parts, otherwise there are easy wrong conclusions…
also the idea from kristijan with a carburettors venturi is interesting…
Some of you have asked what it sounds like and how the Paquali diesel works on charcoal gas, well, since there is currently a meeting of wood gas enthusiasts from southern Europe, I will provide a short video…
where did this happen ? I am missing all the fun.
This was a visit to Giorgio in Italy, thanks to the host for his kindness and hospitality. We discussed a lot about wood gas, fuel preparation, engine conversion… The video shows the start-up and operation of Pasquali, which has been working a lot, I can say that it works really stably, and the power is good. Charcoal consumption is about 1 kg per hour at low load, which is almost equivalent to diesel fuel consumption, which again proves the efficiency of engines running on wood gas, or gas from charcoal.
Giorgio has a well-thought-out and precisely manufactured system for charcoal gasification, well, as you already know me, I always have some theory for improving the system, and we talked and calculated about it. It is about preheating fresh air, which in my opinion makes much more sense in a charcoal gasifier than in a wood gasifier, since charcoal needs much more air to gasify wood…
Thanks again to Giorgi and his family!
Very interesting for sure.
A couple off-topic questions though: What is the distance between you guys? In what language do you communicate?
Hello JO, the distance is 730 km or 10 hours of driving, but we understand each other in German, I speak German poorly, but I understand most of what I hear, well, language is not a barrier to understanding each other.
I must say that the food and drinks were top-notch, Italian cuisine mixed with Slovenian delicacies, Balkan delicacies prepared on a blacksmith’s hearth with a juicy side dish from home cooking, homemade red Slovenian wine, beer, Italian red wine …
next meeting in slovenia…i start with pasquali a month before, with tent and a bath tub for coaling during the way…
italian- german- english speaker, but unfortunately no slovenian and swedish…
I really want to meet you guy’s, i checked some distance on Google maps a while ago-i don’t think i make that trip on wood though 
But if i don’t buy tools and chainsaws for the money i save on gasoline, maybe some day wife and i buy a cheap mobile home…
I wonder how many Americans speak any language other than English. When I was young you were required to have two years of some language to get into college I think. I had three years of German and now may be able to wish you a good day. Of course I also studied and could read music. Now a distant memory as well. I don’t remember when a second language was taken out of the schools here. I know none of my kids took one. I think they were taught more important things like there are more than two genders. No. I guess that science was discovered in the last few years.
Most colleges require a year of foreign language.
German was used a LOT when you were younger for scientific papers but that has changed.
whether anyone can speak a lick of foreign language after 50 years probably hasn’t changed unless they have a reason to use it.
Language skills fascinates me. We can drive 10 hours in any direction and there’s no reason for anything but Swedish. Even in Denmark, Norway and on Finland’s westcoast Swedish works well - or you can always fill in with English. I took 5 years of German in school but never hear it, so my level is probably similar to Tom’s after 40 years of no practice. I would probably have more use for Arabic
Johan and I talked about the meetup possibilities and came to the conclusion that maybe one northern meetup and one southern would be easier. People from the south could fly in and be picked up - and vice versa. Probably even cheaper than several days of traveling. Just an idea.
OH!! I knew you guys had a super top Secret gasifier you were working on! I couldn’t figure out what it was until now! Let me know how the conversion of the airplane to wood gas goes. Make sure you get a video. 
Some thoughts on the comparison of charcoal gasification compared to wood gasification:
charcoal is gasified by an oxidation process, where the charcoal burns directly near the air nozzle into CO2 at a high temperature, which is then converted into CO in the hot zone. Here we can see that half of the available energy of the charcoal is actually used. The efficiency of the process can be improved somewhat by returning the “waste” heat by directly preheating the fresh air and producing steam. It is essential to return the high temperature to the process, i.e. infrared radiation and the energy of the hot gases, which come directly from the hot process, and use the lower temperature to produce steam. It would be interesting to test the theory of “ideal” humidification of the inlet, by sucking it through water heated to about 80°C with bubbling.
charcoal has a specific energy density of about 8 kWh per 1kg, if the theory of losing half of this energy in the “classic” gasifier process holds, we get 4kWh of energy in the form of gas into the engine, but the engine can produce
maybe a little more than 1/3 of the useful energy, which would mean about 1.5 kWh/1 kg of charcoal, well, if we compare this with the gasification of wood, where the result is 1 kWh/1kg of wood.
Now let’s look at the entire process of obtaining charcoal from wood and using it to power the engine.
From 100 kg of wood (400 kWh of energy) we get 15 kg of charcoal (120 kWh), here the efficiency is 30%. From these 15 kg in the engine we produce 22.5 kWh of useful energy, which means 5.6% of the initial energy of the wood, if we compare this with the wood gasifier, where the efficiency is 25%, the ratio between these two methods is 1: 4.5 in favor of wood.
I apologize for the long contribution, but I will try to draw a sketch of the gasifier with improved efficiency in the coming days …
