If you want the maximum drying capability for wood drying by the sun, assuming the net longside is aiming southwards, put clear (ultraviolet quality) over the support net area.
Put up an equally curved support net 1/2 foot inside the outer clear plastic one.
Cover it with black plastic from 1/2 foot abowe ground and up to near the top bend.
This will form a hot air “battery” driving the hot air up in under the roof.
In the rest of the “room volume” you loose-load wood 1.5 foot above the ground.
No general ventilation in the upper warm ends or anywhere else in the upper region!
Under the one and a half foot high internal “grill floor” the recirculation happens from under the piled wood to the half foot above ground starting black curved plastic.
The height difference aims at eavening the return air mixing with the fresh new air entering from the windward gable. One day one gable, another day the other gable!
This makes up a closed hot up – cooling down circulation loop.
Recirculation boosts the general temperature, which is a fundamental factor in drying the wood.
And of coarse a part of the warming and ever more humid air in the circulation has to be exchanged!
New air intake preferebly a foot above the ground at the windside gable of the green house.
Old damp (humid rich) air out at the “lee-side” gable half way up of the wood pile.
Temperature meters inside and outside aswell as humidity meters outside and inside the green house makes for effective handling…
Ventilation may need to be closed when external humidity exeeds the inside humidity…