Electric Chainsaw Question

Jumpers to cross over other traces, or a design change.

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.84 for Run 1
.82 for Run 2

It was reading .6 with incandescent bulb.

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There’s probably something flaky with the meters. Power factor for an incandescent bulb should be 1, or very close. Run one is iffy, with 126 watts AC input and 409 watts DC out (more than iffy :slightly_smiling_face:). Run two is possible, but DC voltage 1.6 times the AC voltage is pretty high, even allowing for RMS vs Peak-to-peak voltage difference.

Yes, Jumpers as confirmed by Sean and Kent. They use the form of a resistor because they can use the same automated component insertion machines to install them, and wave solder with the rest of the board. (less human labor). note they select a 50 or 60 Hz configuration. :cowboy_hat_face:Marine” inverters are usually built to a high-quality standard.

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EE here… 100% what Mike said.

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I want to show how I’m cutting now.

I swapped out the marine inverter for a 2500watt Cobra and connected it to a marine lead-acid battery. From the inverter power goes to a bridge rectifier on top of the cart with a capacitor and from there it’s DC power into the spool. I replaced the 16" bar on the electric saw with a 10" and narrow chain. It’s narrow enough to be flexible in the cut and very handy for triming branches. I use the gas saw for cutting trunks and my PPE is in the black case hanging between the saws.

I’m pleased with this set-up. Although, I think it could be simpler by modifying the inverter instead of rectifying the output. But, it’s cutting good and using about 700W according to the inverter.

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I would aim for efficiency with electric, an Alaska mill setup is far from energy or time efficient. You have gone with narrow kerf chain, that’s good, the logical low hanging fruit. The trouble with any chainsaw ripping is the teeth are not at all optimal for ripping, they are meant to crosscut. A far more efficient approach is to cut freehand with the nose of the bar at about a 30° angle with rapid shallow cuts always working backwards. I will credit this Russian fellow with the idea.

It works well, but requires skill, and the cuts will not be quite perfect, but it’s a better way to make rough lumber than an Alaska type mill. It’s far more versatile as there’s no gear to carry or need to move the log. It works even better in snow, as the snow will hold the log steady and off the ground. You also risk overheating a saw under a steady load, best to work in lower air temps and not at max revs. Possibly use a richer 2 stroke mix than specified, I always do anyways. I have figured out the best way to mark a line is with mason string, lay it out so you cut beside the line an inch or whatever, far better than a chalk line mark.




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They make a chain meant for ripping but this saves buying a different chain.

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Cutting using the edge of the nose of the bar is like night and day, it kicks out chips over an inch long. It’s a different concept, it’s basically routing. The only things that lead me to having issues (gouging the lumber when the bar leans sideways), is not having the patience to go easy on the depth of cut. If you ever get into a sawing situation it will gouge. It can be a little tricky keeping the cuts parallel, you have to be mindful of keeping the cut vertical. Obviously the first marking cut is pretty shallow, then you establish the groove in another pass or two, then you just let the nose swing back and forth, on the pull back you can really feel the cut. The chain has to be sharp. If not there will be problems with the cut, plus it wastes time, fuel and work. Knots will tend to throw off the cut if the chain isn’t sharp enough, or if you put too much pressure on the cut in the denser wood. I can slab 2 sides of a small 16’ aspen log in about 20 minutes using a bit over half a tank of gas. It’s a very handy trick if there was a log back in the bush somewhere hard to get at or if you need some timbers. Obviously length is unlimited, so you can customize roof beams.

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It still blows my mind that you can rip logs with the tip. I wish i knew that trick when i bought my Alaskan chainsaw mill. I learned i like milling lumber because of one but i would never use one again. I would definitely try your trick first. That is if i didn’t have my bandsaw mill.

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Looks like the guy, couldn’t handle the vibration of the gas saw and switched to electric. But he came up with a neat propelled cutting system.

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