I’m going to check out the auto parts stores and see if they have any female-female exhaust couplers that will fit the conduit pipe. Maybe I’ll get lucky and only need to silicone those in place.
The Ultra Red I bought held up on the nozzles amazingly, I thought for sure with as hot as it got on that run that they would have failed but it’s some good stuff.
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Butt joint maybe but I’ve even welded exhaust tubing with a stick welder. It’s not structural. Just quick in and out, cool a second and repeat. Of course I’m not just another pretty face.
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What about oxy/ act and baling wire or coat hanger???
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I don’t own an oxy torch. I’m still crappy with stick welding, and it’s a cheap one that isn’t very sensitive on the amps. If I had a better paying job I’d take the time to practice on my stick welding.
Since I’m using one of the flutes for an updraft I might reserve the other one for a cross draft flute. A flat plane of nozzles would probably make cleaner gas in a cross draft mode. I’d still make it semi diagonal in direction.
Just another idea to tinker with.
Progress report on the flutes. Even though they got ridiculously hot glowing again it appears that they didn’t suffer from any burning away.
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If you want to slip one pipe inside another and they are both the same dia there is a great way to do it and it shouldn’t cost you much and the chances are you wont need to weld the joints .
Pipe one heat it up pipe number 2 stick the end you wanna put into pipe one into a small bucket of dry ice , That can be bought at most gas /welding supply shops here in Aus , the pipe will shrink very easily and should slip inside the heated pipe with no problems .
Dave
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Luckily I found some exhaust slip fittings that I can silicone and clamp down. A 2-1/4" ID sized coupler will fit 2" conduit pipe.
Got the flute welded to the new barrel. I’m still going to silicone up my welds. I never trust the porous nature of flux core.
Barrel is upside down at the moment.
Also I drilled out the holes to 1/2" size and added two more.
I need to buy another length of conduit to make my gas cooler as well as some heavy duty wood screws so I can anchor my tubing bender into my new stump. Plan to do a series of 180 degree bends to make a serpentine radiator.
Got the gas exit welded in. Now I just need to build the cooler.
I think to make my life easier I’m going to look for 1" or 3/4" sized screen to pre sort my charcoal. That way I’m not pulverizing char that is already a good size.
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Looking really nice there Cody.
You should to be able to go a few miles on that barrel of charcoal.
Bob
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That whole barrel is a cooler as long as you don’t let the fuel drop too low. I think all you need is some kind of drop box at your gas exit with a catch jar at the bottom for condensate and then a filter and you are good to go. A thermocouple about half way down the barrel would be good to let you know when your fuel hits that level.
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I might use one of my smaller fire extinguishers as a drop box, so welding in the pipe square instead of on a tangent. At least then I can attach a drain valve and jar.
If you go updraft there realy isnt much of a point in complicating things much if you ask me. The charcoal is also a filter and dropbox, as others hinted. A sack filter after the gasifier and you are good to go.
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Top, thanks. Any suggestions for temp switch if it gets to warm?
How safe is it to leave an updraft’s intake open when shut down? Will the air allow the hopper to burn up or will it be fine? I’ll see if I can find something to make caps out of, but I don’t want an accident if I test drive without a way to cap it off. Aluminum foil doesn’t work very well for the tubes.
It will cuntinue to burn for around 8 hours, but l will guess since you have the gasifier on tge open and wind can get to it you can expect it to burn a lot longer…
Why not add a valve to it?
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I don’t have any good valves to weld onto it at the moment. As soon as I find some 2" valves I’ll weld on some pipe to give it threads.
Worst case scenario I’ll find some 2" caps and use that.
I was thinking of mounting the reactor at the tail end of the bed and run the piping up to the filter behind the cab. That will let me access both of the ends of the flute.