That’s why Matt’s water system makes sense to me. The pull of the engine determines how much water is injected. Excess water at idle or low RPM would just drain away. At least that how I see it.
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Matt’s system works great for his form factor, but I don’t know how I would engineer it for a flute nozzle.
I tried the carb on the air feed a year or so back , a few problems with water and carb’s not mixing so well due to corrosion , as for a flute nozzle it will work the same way as any other type of nozzle as air is drawn in it will suck up some of the fluid , the only reason i stopped using mine was when i tried this i was using a 1 inch nozzle and for my generator running a GX390 engine it did not have the velocity needed to draw up from below as mine is fed from below with a vertical nozzle .
The generator runs the exact same carb on the generator and so i put a smaller main jet in so as not to flood the system with water .
Dave
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That’s why I think I would just need to make my own venturi to screw into the pipe coupling.
But Matt’s system uses like a boiler tube almost. Unless I’m dead wrong. I could maybe try to replicate his water carburetion by using one of my flute ends to suck in the water. I think his system also still relies on setting a drip.
@Matt does your internal tube still close off near the end of the nozzle?
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Ive scrapped that plan it didnt work. This is what I do now
The holes are in an array and the entering air creates a low pressure on the water drip feed tube to keep flow consistent. So no more need to pressurize the tank or use a pump. Then the air is focus to the center of the nozzle breaking up the water and forming an even mist that coats the jet evenly. The mist evaps instantly.
Its so simple and works quite well i more than likely will never change this.
For shut down I dont worry about it. I just shut the genny off and close off air mixer. it shuts down just fine with no smoke.
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Oh alright then I can definitely try to replicate this. I can use one of my flute ends and see if it will work.
I’m hoping that having one end open and the other like this won’t disrupt the pressure area and allow it to atomise the water like it does on yours.
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Going to look for a 2" to 1/2" npt reducer tomorrow after work. I’m wondering if my stainless steel tube I’m using for drip will be okay because it has a flared tip.
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I use a 1 to 3/4 reducer and the pipe on the outside for the air holes is 3/4 pipe. On the inside end of that 3/4 pipe I ram a 1/2 NPT tap into it and then I can thread in my jet nozzle into it. I use the heavier wall pipe for those nipples.
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Managed to find a 2 to 3/4" reduced for the unit. I’ll try to copy yours to a T. My stainless steel tube is about 1/4" ID I think, i haven’t measured it. Used to be part of a #10 thermocouple probe for brewing.
Matt I think your design is the closest we will get for a Reactor Ready Water Atomizer like Max had proposed. I wonder how well it does with oils or old ATF.
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Oh you may want to go bigger than my example. One thing I can do on mine is I can eliminate the 1/2" nozzle and install a 1" by threading that into the coupling that is welded into the unit.
Yeah I have not tried anything other than water yet. But surely would be interesting to see how waste oils would work.
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I was thinking of just using a 3/4" nipple with 4 holes drilled, and after measuring I’ll JB weld the tube to a simple pipe cap
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When I first ran the updraft I did add some motor oil to the flute directly. It wanted to flash evaporate and combust right there. But I basically had a small stream of it in the flute so it couldn’t process it all efficiently. Maybe with this atomising of the liquid it could be more efficient. I may wrap some screen material around the air holes of that end to make sure if I get an oily flashback it will stop right there.
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Increase they velocity and that should reduce that issue.
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Here’s my rendition. I’ll have to test it out tomorrow.
I wonder if it would work okay with a 90 degree bend into the nozzle or if the sharp turn would mess with the droplets forming? One end of my nozzle I installed a 90 degree coupling so I could cap it off easier.
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Yes, mine have a sharp bend at the cap coming from the water tank. Yeah I cant wait to see how well yours works pulling a higher volume on your larger engine.
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I can’t really tell how efficient it is. It looks like it’s certainly pulling in some water and it appears to just come out the other side in a stream.
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It should evaporate, reduce your rate you are probably dipping in too much. Should only be dripping around one to two drips per second.
How big is your nozzle? You do have nozzle after the assembly you posted in your pic right?
See on mine the nozzle is smaller than the inlet pipe. so there is a step in there. You should never see an accumulation of water inside the jet. If you do the rate is too high and it will eventually quench the process and crash. Then you will have to wait for all the moisture to drive out before you can add in more.
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Yeah I don’t think it’s appropriate for this flute design. The flute is about 1.8" ID iirc.
I set it to two drips per second and I either ran low on fuel and it went weak, or I steam crashed it. There’s no moisture in my filter box though so I think I just ran low.
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