Seeing how I’m using this post as a containment unit for my bad ideas I’m mulling over design for another project since I’m getting close to done on my garden truck.
Making a motorized bicycle/early teens style motorcycle and I will definitely be adding a charcoal reactor to this bike.
The question is do I want to go simple and just make an updraft, or do I want to attempt to copy the Swedish motorcycle reactor which appears to be a single nozzle downdraft with a fixed grate.
Engine is that 196cc go kart race engine that can rev up to 9000rpm. Updraft would give me a huge turn down ratio since the jet of flame would just keep going higher. Also more lightweight. I would probably just use a single hole in a flute type nozzle if I went updraft. Would allow water drip to dwell in the flute and evaporate to steam.
The more I think it out the more I want to just build it as an updraft. But the downdraft would let me use up more fuel between refills hopefully.
Mazda is out of comission for a while. The valve I got for shutting off gasoline has decided to spray fuel everywhere. Great. I guess I’ll disconnect my mechanical fuel pump and order an electric fuel pump and just shut it off via switch.
Most run sub 7psi but what matters is if you have a return line off the pump or the carb. For my setup the pump will only be on for a few seconds at a time on a toggle switch since I don’t have a return line to return the excess fuel
Some carb vehicles had electric pumps but only one I ever played with was I had a 79 Toyota 4wd 20r 4 speed with a in tank electric pump. Was very problematic, actually why I scored the truck for 600$. Wasn’t getting fuel and I battled it for some time before I just put it on a toggle switch and only ran the pump while driving, come to a stop light and turn it off to keep from over fueling the carb. For some reason it was a option for that truck with the tow package, never seen another one like it and iv had at least a dozen of those generation trucks and worked on probably a hundred of them or so
Most webers don’t that I have played with until you get into the 3600 series for big motors. If 4psi is the recipe do that, my Toyota wanted 6.5psi to be happy at wot for long pulls. But those mazda motors with the stock carb barely sip fuel, the webers breath a LOT more. Iv had several 4 cylinder Toyotas that got 10-13 mpg with a well tuned Weber. That being said I was young with a concrete right foot. That’s why I did the v8 swap, it gets better milage with triple the horse power of the built 22r
I just use the gasoline part for starting up and emergency use anyways. It more importantly needs to shut off when I want it to! If I need to be somewhere quicker I drive my Sierra.
I had a Holley electric pump on my mud truck. Had a separate in-line regulator that I could adjust when I was running 1300 CFM of dual quads or back it off for a single 4 barrel. This is going back to the mid-nineties. They may have something better now but it’s not hard for an electric pump to flood out a small volume carb. For most things I always preferred a mechanical pump.
Years ago I used Carter, and Bendix fuel pumps, they would slow or stop pumping when pressure was met. I contacted them and was told they don’t make them like that any more. They were much quieter than these new pumps.
Going to do a more permanent mounting solution for the Mazda today. Pulling everything out and removing my plastic bed liner. Fire hazard and she never drains water good. Also going to reroute my gas line to go above the cab and then down over my passenger front fender. Sorta hides it in plain sight as an offroad Snorkel. Luckily I’m a heatgun PVC bending wizard and I shouldn’t need to buy any new elbows.
Right now I have the gasifier sitting on paving bricks to keep the heat from the plastic liner. Temporary solution. I can’t let myself get complacent about that.
Got it out! Luckily I just had to slide the whole unit onto the truck’s tailgate and I had enough clearance to remove the liner. Gee whiz this thing has just one little spot of rust I’m amazed the years of composting leaves didn’t rust away the metal bed. Keep in mind this truck is allegedly all original 1986.
Yeah those high density plastic bed liners are for-sure bed savers.
I love mine - most of the time. Just put in 5 cords of dry, dry winter firewood tossed in and heaped up in back. Steel bed “saved” the denting beating by the liner.
Sure been able to load-in and out some things solo I could have not otherwise.
And like you say if not hole bored is liquids tight.
And sometimes I hate mine. When objects will with acceleration and hard braking slid forward and backwards.
And the tail gate down - slide out dumped at an intersection!!
S.U.
The liner had some drain holes but got clogged with oak pollen tags. Hardly would drain. The metal bed has a few 1/2" holes and a big slit at the lowest point of the bed near the cab.
Okay so I’m headed to oreilly’s today to get an electric fuel pump. I think I found a good one, says it’s 30 gallons per hour and 3-5 PSI. I can’t really see a reason to get one that flows more for this little 4 banger unless someone has something to say. I believe the mechanical pump is about 28gph.
It only takes one person to ruin your day. Mazda is completely totalled. They ran a stop sign and sailed right into my rear side. We spun out and hit the curb causing us to flip. Thank God Almighty that the cab didn’t collapse, I honestly think it was the 55 gallon drum that saved us because it was propping the bed up from the ground. Only my feelings are hurt. They ran before I could do anything and thank God for the good Samaritan bystanders that helped my friend and I get out of the truck.
The like is not for the accident, it’s for you and your friend being ok. Trucks can be replaced that’s what insurance is for. You and your friend cannot be replaced you are uniquely one of a kind and we would all be upset to lose you. Glad your ok
