I definitely need to go down at the very least one jet size each for the idle jets. I forgot to mention I tuned it without the air cleaner on, I think even with an Edelbrock style open filter element it’ll run too rich at the standard 2 turns out. Weber guys say as long as it’s in between 1/2 and 2 turns out for air idle mixture then it should be fine.
Speaking of which I’ve found a good way to make a Woodgas Friendly air cleaner for these Weber 32/36 carburetors. The Edelbrock air cleaner adapter is about 5.25" in diameter. I can definitely find a pipe that will fit this diameter. I’ll probably aim for a 2 inch minimum pipe size for the fresh air, same for woodgas inlet.
I’ve thought about putting a screen over my venturis in the carburetor to help keep soot from falling into them. Something I can pluck out and spray with carb cleaner.
I now have the windshield. From my work it was a 25 Mile drive. The drive back home was about 60 miles due to detours. Very nerve wracking, I forgot to bring moving blankets and an old tire so I had to have the glass in the passenger seat of my Sierra. It’s the same old school spec two layer bonded glass with the membrane in the center.
I just need to buy some urethane and fix the frame some more. Cannot wait to be driving the truck even on Guzzoline.
Took my spark plugs out to examine them. Cylinder 3 for some reason had a ton of carbon on it’s plug. I think it’s the oily culprit as well. Carbon was almost grounding out the electrode. I bet I have a bad valve stem seal.
I think to give my engine as much air as possible on gasoline I’m going to put in two fresh air pipes to the cleaner hat.
One will be either open and shut and the other I’ll have to adjust on woodgas. My 1.5" butterfly valve has a rubber seal so I can just jam it shut completely.
But maybe I won’t need two with a 2" air pipe. I’ll have to see. Leave room for expansion.
Just from my experience the Chevy needs both air valves open for gasoline operation, 5.7 liter engine. A Suzuki samurai 1.3 on propane did not get enough air through a 1.5" sump pump hose to rev out correctly. I would guess the Mazda will need at least 2" to breath ok, more for best operation I think so I think your on the right track
3" reduced to 2", then bottlenecked through a 1.5" valve for air. It was gurgling with throttle on gasoline.
The 3" elbow also was sorta smushed from the hood so that didn’t help.
This air cleaner adapter that I have on it is meant for a Datsun pickup or something. Might work with an old Toyota 22re air cleaner as well but people on ebay want way too much for them. Not that I’d have a ton of height to the hood anyways.
Since the Edelbrock style adapter sits flush with the top of the carb I’ll have more clearance. The 3" barb on the adapter I have now has a riser to get it over the barrels and adds to the height.
I wish I could find the original square air cleaner for it, I could just make a tube box to fit into there. Lost it a while back.
Cylinder #3 keeps bugging me. I hope it isn’t the valve guides leaking. Maybe I just have junk in the rings.
Only way I can figure that out is if I squirt some thin oil through the spark plug hole and see if it leaks down.
I think if I do a rebuild for the engine I’ll just do one quick pass with a honer to freshen up the cross hatching and use standard sized rings. The cross hatching still looks decent based on my bore snake camera. Light catches it.
May plan to rebuild it soon. It needs new seals and gaskets desperately just oozing slowly from every orifice. Dad always says about Harley Panheads he would go to a dealership and they had catch bowls under every bike for the oil. “If it was leaking oil that meant it had some”.
He also said one time he was in a pinch and needed new points in his bike. Harley dealership wanted too much so he got some Chevy points instead at a NAPA.
Too bad we don’t seem to have any Cubans on the site. Now there’s some mechanics that have taken adapting parts from different sources into an art form.
Can’t seem to get the engine to lean out at idle, it refuses to start unless I have the air idle needle at least 2 turns out. Now I see why the Mazda carburetor was naturally very rich without EGR and reed air injection and pre heated air.
Might experiment with reconnecting the EGR valve, it’s vacuum controlled but has an electrical connection as well, consensus is it’s just a position sensor.
At least I could reclaim some of that CO no matter if I’m using gasoline or woodgas. Everyone that does a Weber swap automatically deletes and blocks the EGR but I think this truck would benefit from it. I’m more for efficiency than anything else.
Ordered an actual snorkel hat for the 5 1/8" adapter that is now on the Weber. 4" diameter neck and I’ll neck that down to 3.5", 2" gas line and 2" fresh air. Should fit just fine and leave plenty of air for the engine to run on gasoline.
Since I was donated a hot water heater tank and it hasn’t been ruined, just retired, I’m going to use it as my filter body because of the coating on the inside. Just need to extract the 3" pipe from the center and patch the holes.
Finally found a wing nut that fits the center stud. It was imperial threads, apparently all my smaller nuts are metric. That snorkel hat sure does look shiny.
I finally found all the bolts that hold down the bed of the pickup. I don’t have a way to pick it up so it’ll have to wait until I have some friends over to pull it out.
I wish I had any of that. Someone stole my floor jack last year, and I don’t have chain to put on the tractor boom crane.
I’m going to try to salvage the bumper by removing the corner parts and re welding some plate or something. Maybe I can find some jumbo 6" diameter pipe and use that as my condensate tank for the cooling rails to dump into. Center of the bumper is still straight, it’s just the corner sections that are screwed up.
Well, just because it came to mind while I was reading I thought I would recommend that you take the time to study Mechanical Advantage. Some of the most useful tools you can own are pulleys and the most useful pulleys are snatch blocks. Much available information on this. Well worth the study.
