Giorgio,
You are amazing. You are an inspiration.
I no longer have any valid excuses for not fixing something. 
Now, near the top of my “Kick the Bucket” list, is to visit Italy, and you, sometime before I go to meet with the Lord. 
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and
and
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the injector is not to move, have someone a idea to get it out…
must i lift where i placed the knives?
i have tried there, but stands strong
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Hi GiorgioP.
Remove the mounting stud the you can force rotate the injector to break it free.
Use either two opposing nuts with one thin ground to remove the stud.
Or sacrifice it to toothed clamping grips and thread damaged, replace it later.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Steve has a better idea than mine. I would take a wooden block and a hammer and tap it to break the adhesive free. Looks like someone in the past thought red gunk was a replacement for the oring or flat metal gasket i would expect to see there.
You could probably desolve that with a nasty solvant too but that will be slow and toxic.
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thanks steve and dan…while waiting for help from the forum i remembered the double wedge “extractor”, cutted 4 wedges with the angle grinder, meanwhile my son heated with the gas flame the cylinder…and at least it comes hard, but it comes…with strikes with the 2 kilogramm hammer on the wedges, posted on the anvil…there was a lot of earth dust from the refrigeration and this blocked everything in really extreme way, but now is out and the research can go on…
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so we found a 12 mm diameter spark plug, 19 mm thread lenght , will work fine
the hole for the injector has 10 mm , a bit less, but a 10 mm thread would not work…
the only spark plug with 12 mm i have has the value of 8 in NGK range…this is in the middle between hot and cold…
cannot wait for the day when it runs completely on chargas
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here on this construction is the possibility for compression lowering with a thicker gasket ring under the cylinder
our and my friend tone has suggested compression ratio 1:13…here a question to tone:
how you have found this value?
have you had glowing ignition , uncontrolled ignition with higher compression?
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Giorgio, I made some changes to the compression ratio on my Fergie, now it is about 1:13.5. In this case, CR works on practically all fuels, diesel, propane, wood gas,… well, when the wood gas is of “average” quality, the engine runs nicely “softly” even at full load, but when the gas becomes “strong” (when the gasifier has been operating with a high load for some time), slight detonations are already felt, then I slightly change the gas/air ratio - I increase the proportion of air. CR 1:13 is, in my experience, the upper limit value where the engine runs “safely” on wood gas, I also found that an engine with a large volume of each cylinder must have a lower CR than an engine with smaller cylinders. A large cylinder has relatively few heat losses during the compression stroke, so the gases heat up more and the mixture can self-ignite and thus detonate.
It’s a good idea to install a thick gasket underneath.
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Very valuable words of wisdom come from long experience.
Rindert
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Manuale_Officina_GR_3-4_matr_1-5302-458.pdf
some data sheet of the lombardini engine…
and from the magnet ignition acme maf 2
time for magnetos now…(greetings to tone)…the adapter for the acme magneto on lombardini diesel motor…
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the gear of the magneto has 27 “teeth”, so every tooth makes a difference of 13,3 degees of ignition timing, what can be too rough…but the good thing of this magneto is, that the excenter of the breaker is variable in his position, so a exact ignition point can be achieved…
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Hi Giorgio, great work! I like it 
Please remember when moving the breaker points, there are a “good spot” about 15°+ -15°-, in order to the armature, this is called “Abriss” (german word) or “field breaking distance” if out of this degrees the spark becomes thin and white, it could often still ignite the charge though.
This “science” is due to when the magnetic field passes the poles, it “stretches out”, just before it collapses the spark is strongest 
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göran thank you, i think we have had this problem with weak spark…the magneto was from the avaricious scrap man, i reported in summer…
the bearings were a bit worn out,so we decided to dismantle it completely.
with some thin metall discs the bearings are fine now.
but the spark was weak how you described…
tone explained me some time ago - with the bcs mower- how to adjust the magneto…searching the strongest magnetism point, will say when the coil stands very strong on the housing by magnetism.
this is the point where the breakers must open, and all of course in the right connection to ignition advance…
we have done all so,but the spark was weak… we tried another coil, but the same…
we moved the magneto with the electric drill, like we have done also with the magneto of the fiat tractor, but always bad spark only…so changing the capacitor, but always the same…
than the 2 " moister" (experts) found out that the drill must run in the other direction (left, at fiat is was right direction)…
than , with left turn, the spark was strong, blue and long and was to hear…satisfying at least, also when we need some hours for experiments…best is learning by doing…
the diesel engine shure will need a strong spark with the higher compression.
there was no time for lunch this day at normal hour, we finished at 4 o´clock and the meal, autocooking in the steam pression pot was a bit overcooked with some hours…also the taste was than likely…
what is more important?? gasifiers research wilh old stuff (saved a half rovined magneto) or eating…? for real wood - or chargassers obviously the first…( wife is actually not here, so bad kitchen situation, but we will survive)
without help from forum friends i would not have been able to do this things…thanks to all for help
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GiorgioP. the working RPM’s the magnetic lines of flux will distort advancing wave bunching up with wider lines of force separation. Weaker apparent. Past a rotational point the lines will be stretched making a much narrower but denser effect strength.
1971/72 DC electrical generator and motors training for me. Unidirectional electromagnetic movements will always be weaker both directions than an intentional single directional design.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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