Giorgio,
You are amazing. You are an inspiration.
I no longer have any valid excuses for not fixing something. 
Now, near the top of my “Kick the Bucket” list, is to visit Italy, and you, sometime before I go to meet with the Lord. 
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and
and
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the injector is not to move, have someone a idea to get it out…
must i lift where i placed the knives?
i have tried there, but stands strong
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Hi GiorgioP.
Remove the mounting stud the you can force rotate the injector to break it free.
Use either two opposing nuts with one thin ground to remove the stud.
Or sacrifice it to toothed clamping grips and thread damaged, replace it later.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Steve has a better idea than mine. I would take a wooden block and a hammer and tap it to break the adhesive free. Looks like someone in the past thought red gunk was a replacement for the oring or flat metal gasket i would expect to see there.
You could probably desolve that with a nasty solvant too but that will be slow and toxic.
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thanks steve and dan…while waiting for help from the forum i remembered the double wedge “extractor”, cutted 4 wedges with the angle grinder, meanwhile my son heated with the gas flame the cylinder…and at least it comes hard, but it comes…with strikes with the 2 kilogramm hammer on the wedges, posted on the anvil…there was a lot of earth dust from the refrigeration and this blocked everything in really extreme way, but now is out and the research can go on…
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so we found a 12 mm diameter spark plug, 19 mm thread lenght , will work fine
the hole for the injector has 10 mm , a bit less, but a 10 mm thread would not work…
the only spark plug with 12 mm i have has the value of 8 in NGK range…this is in the middle between hot and cold…
cannot wait for the day when it runs completely on chargas
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here on this construction is the possibility for compression lowering with a thicker gasket ring under the cylinder
our and my friend tone has suggested compression ratio 1:13…here a question to tone:
how you have found this value?
have you had glowing ignition , uncontrolled ignition with higher compression?
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Giorgio, I made some changes to the compression ratio on my Fergie, now it is about 1:13.5. In this case, CR works on practically all fuels, diesel, propane, wood gas,… well, when the wood gas is of “average” quality, the engine runs nicely “softly” even at full load, but when the gas becomes “strong” (when the gasifier has been operating with a high load for some time), slight detonations are already felt, then I slightly change the gas/air ratio - I increase the proportion of air. CR 1:13 is, in my experience, the upper limit value where the engine runs “safely” on wood gas, I also found that an engine with a large volume of each cylinder must have a lower CR than an engine with smaller cylinders. A large cylinder has relatively few heat losses during the compression stroke, so the gases heat up more and the mixture can self-ignite and thus detonate.
It’s a good idea to install a thick gasket underneath.
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Very valuable words of wisdom come from long experience.
Rindert
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