I agree Tone, this is where Kristijan insulated hot hopper worked. With the addition of the cooling tubes on the outside of the hopper and condensation tank to drain off the water.
The insulation around the lower part of the gasifer like JO is doing and a larger drop out area.
Preheating the air into the nozzles. Minimizing the heat loses out of the gasifer and putting the heat to work with pyrolysisation of wood in the hopper is a big plus.
This is my goal on the WK build I’m building now. We are getting closer to a very efficient gasifer. If we don’t melt it down on the inside in the firetube area. It is all about controlling the heat, the velocities, frequencies and chemical change in the gases that is going on inside the gasifer in the firetube reactor with a vaccum and postive atmospheric contiinuelessly changing involvement.
In wood gasification the number one problem is to over come the excess of H2O.
In a Charcoal Gasifer it is the lack of H2O is the problem.
You want a fast start up, and a good clean rich gas, and free of tar at all times. Preheating intake air helps with this.
The turn down ratio built into the WK Gasifier is one plus. Having a 25.4 cm / 10 in. minimum firetube for smaller engines, 30.4 cm / 12 in. for larger engines.
The larger firetube allows heat to go up into the hopper and for wood to feed into the firetube from the hopper above easier less chance of bridging.
Heat shielding in the firetube area to protect from high heat.
From the nozzles down to the grate to maintain a good charcoal bed with a reserve.
After the restriction opening slow the velocities down and after the grate slow the velocities down more larger drop box area to catch soot.
Use this area to preheat incoming air.
Keeping the gases moisture wet to collect soot.
Just some of the things I want to take into consideration in building my next gasifer.
Bob
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