Wood Powered Caddy

I love the USA and there wouldn’t be a USA if there wasn’t a military but I find it hard to believe somebody didn’t say we can’t spray this crap where our troops are going to be fighting.

Sounds like a pretty good old Caddy Rick, they all have a list of problems but all in all pretty good old cars. I fixed that problem with my air shocks leaking off, about 2 weeks ago I went over the shock and air line on that side with soapy water, found a fitting that was leaking ever so slightly, put fresh tread tape on and the back of the Caddy was standing tall on both sides for a change when I got home last night, sometimes you win!!!
I think I will fire up and go for a ride!!!

Hi Herb, Come visit … I just put my flag out … Long story that none of you need to hear … Monday I visit MANY of my old friends … This country is FUBAR’d … What a shame. We have all worked so hard … Made in China… Give me a break !! … OOK

I decided it was time to change hay today, it’s has about 3000m on it.
Is this about what the rest of you are finding as far as “looks” of your hay after about that many miles? Do you run yours more or less than that before changing? What you see on top came off the top, I pull it out from the bottom, it was a lot more dirty at the bottom of filter!!! Just wondering how mine compares.


Hi Herb,

That’s pretty much what mine looked like, too. I changed it yearly, I didn’t have as many miles on it, maybe half. The gas would enter the center of the hay so I didn’t see a gradient of dirtiness.

Rick

Well I’ve been working on my hay filters while I have the hay out of them, I have had different kinds of reinforcement on the inside keeping the flat walls from sucking in, it is amazing what it takes to hold them out! What I had worked but was distorting filter housing, I think I have something figured out that will work better and is lighter then what I had, suction is a very powerful force.
Something kind of fun happened today, the local NBC news tv station contacted me, they are going to do a story on the Caddy June 10, that should be a good time!!!

Pretty cool Herb!
About the hay filter. Can you drill a 1/4" hole from one side to another, stick a 1/4" rod through them holes and weld to the side walls? Maybe you thought of that already?

That is what is so amazing to me, I did what you suggested, it bent them in the middle and caved in, only that was 1/2 in rebar. I went with 5/8 and that worked ok but then it pulled the corners in, put 1/2 in rebar in there corner to corner crossed and it bent then in the middle, went with 5/8 there to and it held ok but started to distort after a while, building round is the way to go!

Wow, that’s surprising Herb.
So are you thinking a chunk of small diameter pipe?

Going back with 1/2in pipe with 1x1x1/8in T iron on each side, 3 rows running crossways, I would have never thought.

Hello Herb.

Show NBC that big smile on your face !!

SWEM

and I will be sure and let them know where I learned what I know about Gasification!!
I’m wondering if some of you electronic experts could help me with identifying and locating parts to put electronic ignition on my Model A.
I don’t have room for a distributor, the one you see in pic I cut down where ever I could to get it under 4&1/2" tall from dist hole in block to blower drive.
I even cut off ign plugs on dis cap and ran wires out the back side.
It works but I would really like to go with late model electronic ignition, would really appreciate some good guidance on this, I will do any fab, mounting, wiring necessary. Thanks, Herb

Hi Herb, You call that a Model A ??? Didn’t the Model A have a little 4 cylinder engine in it with spark boxes ?? Timing control on the steering wheel ???
Good luck with NBC. Enjoy that 15 minutes of fame and see how they distort what you say to them …
They must be holding you up in Nashville. When do you report there ?
I’d recommend you talk with Sean French. He has been building with flat sides for years now and probably has all the reinforcement issues worked out. I’m building strictly round so folks can’t call me “square” … Even round will suck in too
http://www.intergate.com/~mlarosa/images/woodgas/crushed-filter.jpg
Regards, Mike
PS getting too hot for me already … drippin sweat off my chest …

HerbH. internet search up by, “crab cap distributor Big Block Ford”
You will get lots of leads. My weekend dial-up really sucks for me to do much looking.
Simplest to find a cap for the current system with terminals out the sides.
“DuraSpark II” early Ford electronic are shorter, have flatter caps with male terminals and 90 degree plug wires available. These require NO on the engine added sensors. Add some wrecking yard harness with plug ends and one of those cast finned Ford/Motorola ignition amplifier contol modual boxes.
I’ve had zero success phone/mail talking folk through this easy conversion. 100% success my own hands on.

Many other conversion electronic systems out there from billet machined bodies adapted GM HEI’s to full front of crankshaft added and/or flywheel toothed sensored systems with full laptop programability. Then the existing distributor hole/oil pump drive filled with a later Ford distributor-less stub “cam” sensor bodies. Ha! had to replace a few of those on OEM’s. They underlubricate and upper bearing/shaft wear out.

Vertually nothing out there that would not at some point require maybe a blower off, oil pump drive body (distributor) pulling.

Depends on how electronics functioning/diagnosis knowledgable ed-youma-cated you want to dive into this.
Old Ford factory DuraSpark’s have a lot of hands on expreniced fellows out there.
Later all in one package Ford modual on the distributor side TIF system’s can be adapted also. Not my favorite. No vacuum advance possible.
Go after market high end be sure of your phone support. Or a known knowledgeable local. Ha! Ain’t me.

Regards
Steve Unruh

Hi Steve, Can you still be reached on the twisted pair ??? It’s getting hot here. I just took the AC down to the house. I think my balls were falling off when I loaded it but “my” doctor told me on Thursday that my hernia patches were still in place and appeared intact … She just delivered a baby girl and was 40 minutes late for her appointment with a 60 year old crotichy man (me) but she stuck her fingers right in there and checked them out … cough … cough … It’s friday tommorow, isn’t it ??? I hate Monday’s … Every day is friday to me now … Chopped a pile of wood chunks the last few days … Hang in there amigo, Mike

Herb
How many horses does that ride have?

Steve
Your knowledge never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for sharing it

Mike
The sweat that drips off my chest doesn’t have as far to fall. My chest fell but its OK cause my belt caught it.

Hey MikeL, same phone number. Still here. Just talking the other day with one of the Chris’s and used YOUR name. Not in vain though. Respect.

First picture is my old 84 Ford 300 CID I-6 Ford “TIF” factory system.
2nd picture is a neighbor barter for earlier DuraSpark II system off his 78? 300 before it went to scrape yard heaven. Got his nice simple “dumb” non-electronic feedback Carter carb too. Drop-in, bolt on 3 wire patch in pieces ever come the need.
I never have one of anything critical. One, is one way from having none. And then with none your pants fall down around you ankles and trip you up. Caught exposed, having a none capabilty makes me real cranky.

Only one Wife though. Ahhh. Remember that Chinese symbol for trouble in the house? Took that one to heart a l-o-n-g time ago. She’s out BBQing right now. Her fork has reach and is sharp!

REgards
Steve Unruh


I have to go to the library myself to watch videos or look anything up because my connection is so slow here at my home so I will do that tomorrow. Thanks for the info Steve!
I really don’t know how much hp it makes, it’s a 429 Super Cobra Jet, that’s a 671 GMC Blower, driving it 1 to 1, on its best day it makes about 4lbs of boost. I’ve never had any trouble getting out of anybody’s way with it!!

Thanks for the pics, mine must be the DuraSpark 1, it has a one piece cap, bought it new and cut it down to fit many years ago, I think it’s for a 75 351C but I think all Ford dist are the same anyway, it has worked pretty good for a long time but is moisture sentitive, may pop back on wet morning. I’ve been through the caps that exit the side, just not enough room height wise.
I think I will have to go the distrubutorless route, I only have 4&1/2" from dist hole in block to bottom of Blower Drive. I know I need a crank trigger set up, the right kind of brain and does that mean 8 individual coils?

PS What is TIF &
What does the alu finned box do? Thanks, herb

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Morning Herb
The front of engine ignition moisture sensitive is a tough one to beat.

O.K. So you already done the distributor body/shaft shortening try-it already.
You a damn good fab man Herb.

Distrubutor-less electronic can be done a number of ways.
As I said really impossible to do this from a distance. You need to find local hot-rodders with proven experiences to face to face with.

Aviod ANY system that has a retrofit needing front of engine crankshaft sensor system on a Ford old long snout V-8!!
Front all accessory drive V-8 engines like Fords, AMC and others the distance from the foremost engine main bearing to a way out front pulley sensor trigger is so long, that with the least engine wear, or acessories load kicking in like a cold loaded oil pump, normally AC and power steering load kick-in that the crank shaft will flexed and that can the distance drop out the sensor signal.
Ford about 1980 for a short time had an EEC III (Ecectrinically Emmissions Controlled, version number three) system that was external exposed front of crank magnetic sensor dependent. They also had a wierd failures prone internal paths distributor cap and rotor. Horrible system when the least old and worn.
Later small blocks cast timing covers were modified and a segmented trigger wheels added close back to the front main bearing support. Enclosed o-ring waterproofed sensor then too. Lots of cam gear sensors later set up the same way.

Refuse any system uses any type of optical sensor. The least dirt, crud; or under the distributor cap rotor tip to cap terminal metallic spark gap jump spew will coat the sensor eye dimming and blinding it. ON the many slit trigger wheel optical types the fine slots get blocked clogged with ANYTHING, like even rag wiping lint. Having to continually, randomly, no-spark dry air can clean, and clean will have you pining back for points that only needed twice a year fussing. If it says Perlux - it will be an optical type retrofit.

Distrubutorless does not have to be one coil per cylinder. Much simpler, with less hardware and processing requirements is the one coil for every two cylinders with dual terminals late 80’s through 90’s types. Called “waste spark” types. These fire the plug at both of the pistons up TDC’s. The extra spark being at the top of the exhaust stroke too. Why called wasted spark. Surprisingly does not double the spark plug wear. DOES make half the cylinders plugs fire the opposite polarity of normal. Big reason why the change over to platinum tipped spark plugs. Take MORE spark energy for these reversed polarity firing. Electronic ignition you can then build-in the amp-watts energy to burn then, versus points amp-watts limited types.
People have, and you could, adapt over to a later Ford V-8 factory waste spark type.
Pretty big job with lot of complications.
On these ALL of the needed RPM, vacumn LOAD, cranking timing retard/advances are electronically calculated.
You need to add separate electronic Coolant and Intake Air Temperature sensors. A crank sensor. A cam sensor. Throttle Position Sensor. BAROmetric pressure Sensor. Manifold Pressure Sensor.
Then transfer over the 64? leads wire harness, fuses and switched power supplies, including the harness SPOUT and OCTANE adjust plugs back to the many pin PCM plug.
Aftermaket adapter harnness can help out a lot for more bucks.
Ford dstributorless EEC IV and later V systems have the after-market development far better the GM or any other.
Upshot is then with an after-market program/PCM computer plug-in you can have laptop programability and make ignition advance curves to your hearts content. Really fine tune in then for boosted pressure advances.

I think this is all massive over-kill for a fair weather open-hood street rod. Racing yes. Tooling around no.
Plus you lose a lot of the big fat colored spark plug wire affect possible on an open hood machine
You need to still be looking for an all-in-one, drop-in solution needing only 1, 2, 3 wires hooked up for power, and cranking timing set back. Even IF it would be of GM orign. married into your Ford.

I’ve been waiting for some of the marine guys to chime in here. Ford big-blocks were very big in the inboard mariners.
Mallory seems to be the ignition name there.

Regards
Steve Unruh

Oh. The DuraSpark boxes used analog logic with solder on circut boards components with it all ruggerized and sealed with a pour-on soft resin. The best: thermal exapnsion protected the solder-on componets from resin curing tearing loose were those that first had a loose silica “sand” fill. You can look and feel for the sand to ID the better ones; be the II versions.
Diag by tapping. Change of state - BAD. Diag by alternately heat gun and freon cooling - change of state - BAD.
These are really only the very weak in-distrubutor magnetic sensor a signal AMPLIFIERs for the much higher needed coil loading power. They have only very limited cranking spark set back modifying capabilties. Same as the same era, three terminal Chrysler/Dodge firewall ignition amplifier boxes. Toyota, with on the ignition coil mounted (really dumb that!) ignition amplifiers boxes.
TIF meant a change then later to Thick Intergrated Film techknowlogy manufacturing. Digetal logic then. Mounted on/in then actual distributor kike the GM HEI small flat amplifier modules.
Ford TIF’s all of the timing features except cranking spark set back was done off of the the distributor TIF modual and remotely computer calculated from sensors inputs and the actual timing modified trigger signal THEN set back to the TIF amplifier for the needed power boosting to feed the coil.
Nothing really new here. A weak crystal radio detector signal power boosting is how Hi-Fi room sound filling came about - with Amplifying vacumn POWER tubes. How a very weak diamond tiped phonograph “detector” signal can be Amplifying vacuum POWER tubes boosted up to speakers blowing levels.
So the “modern” “21st century, new agers” thinking they have invented a new world, with new rules are wrong. Just poor readers, with a very poor touch/feel for proven histories to build Up from, filled with hormonal over-enthusiasms. S.U.

I do have an option with this engine that may be the way to go. I used a custom front cover (timing chain) that has access hole to camshaft sprocket. I don’t know what it was designed for but why not drive distributor from that. I would have to find or make a way to drive oil pump but then I could use any 8 cly dist, what do you think? What dist would you recommend? I will do the dist drive/ mounting chores! Thanks, really appreciate your expertise!

Sorry I missed your call yesterday, will call you today bout same time.

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