This guy posted an update^. and Yeah I agree wish there was more info on how it is hooked up to tesla/fault codes etc. They mention the possibility of running it on a smaller/lighter wankel, I think even better than a wankel would be a turboshaft generator and then a 2nd stage(ORC, TEG or steam) to harvest the remaining heat energy. Or a tesla turbine based setup. There are a few manufacturers building campers for electric cars, to eliminate range issues they give the trailer a battery pack and electric motors. I think trailer battery set + gen gas would be the best way to range extend an electric car if you are not using a compact energy dense turbine. Because the motor he is using is so weak he has to stop often, best size motor would be atleast ~100hp so its enough to keep car going indefinitely at highway speedsâŚ
It just doesnât make sense as far as voltage goes.
Is he using step up converters? Do Tesla charge controllers make-do with whatever DC is coming in? Modifying the generator to output proper voltage levels at the sacrifice of lower amps?
Tesla and most cars have an onboard charger that accepts ac then does the voltage conversion. Apparently in the EU, you can use 3 phase input as well because they have a different charge plug and onboard charger. The charger goes through a negotiation protocol to determine what both sides can handle. It is similar to what ethernet uses to determine link speed.
I think all he did was take the output from the generator and put it into a home charger to make the connection, then that takes care of everything BUT the caveat is the onboard charger itself has a limit to how much power it can take.
The onboard charger does the step up to a higher voltage then probably some smoothing, and then does the pulsed dc to charge the batteries.
I think this is the limit he is supposedly hitting, otherwise, he would be taxing the engine the entire time. provided he wasnât already. he was saying it was overheating and such. If the people on the forum were correct some of the onboard chargers can take 22kw, and it looked like he was using a 23hp kohler engine which with the turbo and the right gen head it might get 22kw.
I think it will be a while for his next video on the subject.
Well i picked up the 91 before work on friday. Here are a few pics before and then this morning my mom gave it a quick rince with the pressure washer while i was working on the 97⌠maybe the next one we find will be a 92-96.
Drivers side front fender skirt was full of pine needles and is rusted threw under the skirt. Otherwise i am actuall really inpressed. Cab corners are solid. Havent looked at the frame yet for scaling.
Ill have to throw a battery in it and see if it will run.
Im told it ran when he parked it in 2017.
Very curious I know that was the cut off year to switch to the magnum engine, by the valve covers and air filter that looks to be a standard la engine. Depends what you want to do but there is a plethora of aftermarket bolt on power making goodies for those engines, very minimal work to have it up to the factory hp numbers of the magnums
Thanks marcus for that insight. Thats good to know and good to hear. I knew this, being pre-magnum was going to be short on HP. But if there are relatively simple ways to give it a boost in that department, makes me feel better. Especially since the body is looking solid.
HI wayne are you saying you drove a 3.9 dakota on wood gas a few years before running the v8 dakotas.HOW IS the weather way down south- it sure feels hot up here in michigan this year.?? THANKS
LOOKS good Chris- a bought a 1999 dakota 3 years ago ,just before coved flue went around and before used car prices went sky high- for 400 bucks, ran good though the rear frame was rusted bad so i welded my own rear frame section and spliced it in. The 99 dakotas seem to have a extra thin looking frame.Maybe the 1996 and back dakotas had a little thicker frames.
Thanks ya its a bit different- i lowered the reactor housing about 4 " below the original frame rails- i think i should have stayed closer to even with the frame- though i have air shocks to install to raise it up a little- i also need some skid plateing so my lowered frame rail caint snag a pot holeâ and all my exterier plumming is a bit extra weight around or between the reactor and the heat exchanger-- the way WK the book design is much better really-- I just have thinking problem lately- I am sure it will work-- hopefully not to many plugging ishues with my compact reactor housing. I may have to add one more pipe plug clean port at top of my C iron reactor gas exit channel. I should have plenty of space between burn tube housing and inner burn tube for the incoming airâsee how it pans out i gess. REALLY THOUGH WE CAINT BEAT HAVING THE WAYNE KEITH___ HAVE WOOD WILL TRAVEL__ BOOK PLANS__ SO MANY LITTLE TRICKS TOO MENCHENâin that book-NICE BOOK PLAN TOO BUILD WITH.
THANKS for the perfect photo-i will save that too my colection too put with your book HAVE WOOD WILL TRAVEL- to pass on to the next worthy soul- or after we are gone.CAINT beat the hard copy to get next generation to keep the knowlege keen. THE lord must have found favor for you in your hay fields-GOD BLESS. THANKS for all you do for wood gas know-how.
I agree with you Steve. It is getting harder and harder to fly under the radar. I am lucky to live in a rural area. Our only requirement is a site permit to ensure you are sited properly on your own 2 acre lot. I am not going to the bank so no building permit and inspections required by them and the insurance pirates. I cut the wood on my own sawmill and frame it with my own hands. I have the time and hard earned experience ( by making mistakes and having to fix them myself ) to build better than bare minimum code. I use roofing paper because it breathes ( any old building I have torn down the wood under tarpaper looks new! ). I donât mind if the house is a little drafty, just add another log on the fire.
Same as vehicles. I have a check engine light on, a TCS light on , an ABS light on , a low windshield washer light and a seatbelt light. I replaced the brakes all around and if I stomp on the brakes I will be leaving rubber. They are making the cars smarter and the drivers dumber. Up here in Canukistan new vehicles are required to have tire pressure sensors and backup cameras. I would love to be able to buy a basic 1/2 or 3/4 or 1 ton pickup for less than 50 to 100 000 dollars. I bought an old F-500 3 ton tire truck that would not pass inspection and had it derated so it didnât require inspection anymore. These are the hoops that we are increasingly forced to jump through. Most regulations seem somewhat reasonable but you add them all up and there is one of the main reasons young kids canât afford to have a house and car and family. Iâll step off my soapbox now.
