But i still smile when eating rhubarbs? I love rhubarbs 
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Thank you Tone, well the 75% always needs to be updated some
Especially since it must be around 10 years since i drove on wood with Manual transmission, sometimes three feet could be practical. 
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Yes JO, 150°c after gasifier, really low temps yesterdays driving, ofcourse the thermocouple could show wrong, because i spliced it, but not more than some 20°c.
But, im building charbed and ash insulation, temperatures slowly climbs, around 200°c on the way home from work today.
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Really good numbers with a shallow Imbert-ish heart.
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The Imbert heart has fresh air intake pipes, next to which hot gas comes out, which thus preheats the air, and the gas itself cools down, it is a kind of heat exchanger. Here there is an almost direct transfer of high temperature heat back to the process, similar to how my exchanger works, where the gas temperature rarely exceeds 100°C. The outer casing of the lower part of the gasifier also acts as a cooler, which is cooled by the air swirling behind the car. Indeed, a well-built gasifier with an efficient condensation zone (dry gas), with an internal direct heat exchanger and a cooled housing, hardly needs an additional gas cooler. This is just my opinion. Just one question Goran, how much do the vacuum gauges show at full load?
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Do you eat it raw? ???
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GOOD to see you got your new or different design than your first wood gas vehicle- are you able to maintain 50 mph on just wood gas yet. HOW many other designs did you build 10 years or so ago. THANKS for the ride.I got to hook up the fans on my old dakota truck, the motor that is in my dakota, dont feel all that peppy on gasoline, i will likely lord willing go through the 360 motor i bought at auction, to see if it looks good enough for rings and bearing, and put that motor in my wood gas truck, hopefully before winter in december. CHEERS.to your build up and working, we might need one before long with all the war drumbs banging, if they start blowing up gaslines under ground, it could get going on more than one line.
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Hi Tone, i haven’t any steady vacuum readings yet, it fluctuates to much, 100-400 mm water column (after gasifier).
I think this is going to stabilize some when ash builds up.
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Sometimes, yes 
When i was a kid i often got, or “borrowed” some sugar in a cup, then i could sit on the grass, eating rhubarb, every other time i dipped the stalk in sugar 
Nowadays i need to be careful, my intestines don’t handle rhubarb as well anymore.
Better then to boil the juice from them.
Pic’s from last summer.
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Thank you Kevin, it’s still test driving, but seems no problem to maintain 50-60 mph on just wood.
About designs i really don’t know, mostly variants of the Imbert design, with mixed results.
And some really odd prototypes that don’t worked well, or at all…
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JO, I also reacted to Göran’s temperature, about 150c after the gasifier, but we have the sensory body inside the gas, so it might be a little different then?
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Yes, temperatures keeps low, fascinating, up on 210°c today, then down around 160°c again.
But im happy, i want temperatures under 300°c, indicates good reduction.
Hopper juice, i hope the dog don’t roll and tumble in this
Smokin’ the neighborhood.
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It’s nice to follow your posts, Goran, when well-thought-out things come together, the result is an excellent whole.
Are you letting off gas at the start port after stopping? Kristjan once said that the water vapor eats the coal and in fact this really happens if the relatively moist pyrolysis gas travels through the glowing coal, so I open the chimney at the top, without this element probably none of my gasifiers will work. The chimney must be placed above the gutter for collecting condensation, so the drops from the chimney drain into it.
Before stopping, I fill the gasifier with fresh fuel, which dries well during the cooling of the gasifier, and I have a full tank of dry fuel for the next start, so the accumulated heat is used for drying. A lot of water vapor escapes through the chimney and some of it condenses on the casing.
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Thanks Tone, for now i just close the gasifier, but as you say it would be a real benefit to vent out moisture after shut-down, i need to think about that.
A chimney may disturb some people at parking lots.
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Hi Jan, i got the thermocouples inside the gas too, on the pic’s with them taped up wires, they go through a small hole, protruding about 15-20mm
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Göran, I watched your latest Swedish version driving video this morning. A couple questions.
I noticed your vacuum meter is 100mm H2O. That’s only 4 inches. That can’t be it, can it?
How about intake puffs? My lower nozzles corrected that 90%. I’m starting to believe my main problem is my charbed is on the big side for the Volvo and that occational tary fumes are to blame. Reason I ask is I’m curious if the engine type has anything to do with it as well.
Also, I’m guessing very little hesitation, right - with that shallow responsive charbed?
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Hi Jo, the vacuummeter is not fitting for this, it’s my experimental “inverted” manometer going to 400mm water column, yesterday i pegged it “backwards” sometimes.
This is after gasifier only, as you say a shallow imbert, in the ballpark dimensioned are not very restrictive, seems i may have got it close to a winner this time, but time will tell, diabol shaped imberts are hard to satisfy, smooth road= burned out charbed=stop, then tar.
Too bumpy road=constipation=lower temps=more constipation=slow, slow driving=smoother run on the bumpy road=power back, and start all over again…
As a notice: the old volvo i made a hearth (when i was tired at bridging and burned out charbed, i made it like a enormous imbert, with small 67mm restriction, and long, narrow reduction, like a miniature WK, after restriction.
This one ran constantly constipated, it was clearly the vacuum that stated the limits for power.
I used one of them “economy meters” as vacuum gauge, it hit “orange” most the time.
About intake puffs, i must do something wrong? I can’t remember having one?
I was really prepared that it could be the case with this volvo, i think i’ve read some that volvos was prone to puffing.
Whats the reason?
-i don’t advance the ignition as much (lazyness)
-i have bad gasifiers, not making as much hydrogen (power says something else)
-i use pretty moist wood, some mist will help against pre-ignition (lazyness and neglience)
-i keep the ignition system in “good” order due to old recomendations, wires spread, no crossing wires.
-i use ignition wires with pretty high resistance (lazyness, cheap)
Only things that comes to mind at the moment, it’s not im a “perfectionist”, Mikkonen is, and he has puffs, he even uses a rubber explosion relief valve on his mixers.
And, the hesitation is “surmountable”, only obvious after stops, standing, if im drive away, like i have my b*lls under the pedal, it accelerates like one of them 1960s Mercedes diesels, but no hesitation, and when up on third gear i may put the pedal to the metal
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Thanks very much, Göran! Quite a lot to digest there. For example, I’ve had missfiring going on lately after it’s been raining (even if I switch to gasoline momentarely). Ok again after it’s warmed/dried up, but still annoying when it happens. Time to take a look at the ignition status.
I was in charge of babysitting Agnes and Walter last night. We went for 1.5h spin puttering around slow speeds on gravel roads in an area of summer houses, stopped for a swim in one of the lakes and I almost forget we were running on wood myself. Everything ran smooth. Open road speeds - same thing most of the time.
On other occations with stop and go traffic in town I may find myself on the road side, hood open and attching a blown apart connection due to a backfire. They are really powerful sometimes. My two tennisballs up front are obviously not enough.
Sorry…I’m rambling now…
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Maybe an air leak up front?
Will make hesitation worse also, when closing throttle, air can be sucked back in gas piping by vacuum. Will make kind of an air bubble in gas supply line, noticeable on high vacuum.
Edit: some hard-to-find leaks may work like one-way valves, no leak when apply pressure to system.
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