Hi guys, l run a plastic manifold on my Chevy. What a pain! Stay as far from them as possible. There is no way you can flush it clean. I tryed acetone, alcohol, diesel, boiling water… no sucsess.
Well there is another way thugh. You can reheat your gas slightly to dry it, then pass it trugh a paper filter. This way you will not get any soot in the intake manifold at all. Plus it works as a safety for tar.
I was thinking you could probably filter it but dont know if it would impact the flow to much?
The key is surface area. Ofcorse drag is imposible to avoid, but belive me, it beats a dirthy plastic manifold everyday.
Hi Kristiian, can you elaborate on a reheat system, maybe a sketch 
Hello Al .
On some of my earlier trucks I would use metal tubing pulled up tight to the exhaust manifold for reheating the gas stream . After time I noticed rust flaking off the inside of the tubes . My rule now is no metal tubes or pipes after the hay filter.
If I reheated with metal I think I would need a final filter at the throttle body .
For a final filter would a paper HEPA filter be best or an oil K&N style filter?
As Wayne mentioned rust particles would be caught by any filter however to remove some of the excess carbon I’m wondering which filter would be the best
Max Gasman (I hope he’s still with us) always recomended a standard air-breather filter for ease of maintence - just shake the dust out and put it back.
I guess a piece of aluminium tubing would solve the rust issue. Ss would work too but not as conductive.
The problem with putting the tubing up front is the gas would probably get very hot at a quick shutdown. Too hot for a paper filter? I don’t know.
Max always recomended to utilize the heat from the outgoing gas from the gasifier. Kind of a second heat-exchanger. I can’t remember anyone ever tried it. Most likely complexity reasons.
If time would ever permit, I would like to do like I think you did, with a reheat ( or in your case a heat) by putting a shroud around my cyclone. I think you are heating air which could be a problem if a leak occurs between the two gases. I would be heating gas with gas so a little leak would not mater.
About the metal pipe rusting, I see no problem because as soon as you get the gas reheated it goes into a paper/cloth soot filter.
I do have to consider this because the last couple of days have been spent taking my TBI apart and cleaning it mechanically. I tried carburetor cleaner and it made the thick soot gummy and sticky. TomC ( not a day goes by that something doesn’t remind me of Max )
Tom, I think that’s pretty much what Max recomended. I always tell myself “Maybe next build”.
Btw, other than cleaning the tb, are you all set for Argos?
PS. Has your lawnmowing started?
This is a little off topic, but Wayne you said your first two trucks were fords, and I think the option that makes the most sense to me is to have a 4 door truck, like a 1996 Ford F-250 crew cab with either the 460 v8 or the 351 v8 for various reasons. I assume since the 460 is a bigger engine than the Dakota, and a bigger truck, it would consume wood similar to the ram. But what would the estimated highway top speed be without pushing the Gasifier over its limits? Again, I am hesitating getting the book, I really need to, but I want to at least wait till Argos, till then it’s something to think about if you don’t mind. Thanks, Tyler.
Good morning Tyler.
You may have already read the below link but I put it up here just in case you haven’t .
I can’t add much more than what the link covers.
With a bigger work type truck you can expect to use about 2 pounds of wood per mile with speeds 50-60 mph . With the little hyway trucks about a pound per mile and speeds 60-70 mph.
It works out real good for me and my farming by having two trucks, a Ram 2500 4x4 for doing heavy work and some local hyway driving . For transportation and no hauling the little dakota truck is just right .
If I was forced to use only one truck with my daily routine and farming I would go with a half ton truck .
Again , you should choose a vehicle that fits your needs .
BarryB do not feel so Canadian alone in doing this.
http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/building-a-wk-gasifier-for-harsh-winters/421/33
Dustin Moore Thunder bay ONT
http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/terryls-97-dodge/281
Terry Lavictorire
Both of these were modified WK variants so were Premium side topics. Needing Premium membership to read and follow.
Once you have a members bubble icon anywhere you can open up that members whole topics and activities lists.
Both of these guys do have relevant topics set up also in the General Topics sections.
Other active Canadians too in the tractors and small engines areas.
Ha! Frozen condensate will be frozen condensate regardless of the system size! Gas flow water traps happen to all of us!
The next is my opinion from observed experiences:
most intake manifold "sooting’ is not from the produced gasses supply. But from in-manifold a small amount of CO fuel gas reversion to pure carbon soot particles and CO2. This soot is like lamp carbon black. Very low mass, but bulky and fluffy until compacted. Like dry snow becoming later compacted and late season evolving into dense ice-cone-like ice balls.
The Scandinavian learned gas reheating (AND engine primary air pre-heating!) prevents this CO to CO2 reversion. The “can’t” happen explanation form me for the energy that would be needed to do this is rough handing of the air-gas mix with too many shear edges and direction changes in the mixer systems.
My explanation for this is wildly disputed by the maths&science&formal educated engineering guys. “Impossible! Steve Unruh”
I live by see-do. Seen-done. Explain later: as needed.
Steve unruh
Thanks Steve that is great information
You should be able to open this link now .
Yessir…I’m going to filter it with some kind of filter and see what happens…hahahha
Every couple weeks I’ll run some intake cleaner through it. Hopefully it wont build up.
The links don’t seem to work right as posted…
Calvin Rader in Saskatchewan built a straight up WK style system and demonstrated pretty much flawless performance.
Anyone hear from @Calvin lately? He’s been offline for too long…
you have to be a premium member to see those links
I am, and they still don’t work, I suspect a transcription error.
But a name search once you get the premium membership will sidestep that. Dustin’s slide in build was top notch winter grade.
I just got premium but I see what you mean.
Brings up a Google search for me.
Good after noon Barry , if you can weld thin metal you will be better off on over all weight acomulation. my square unit is way too heavy, my other non Wk unit with heated hopper, worked good but through off a lot of heat that was much more visable than the Wk with cooling tubes. I am currenty building a new WK type design as light as posible so useing barrels saves weight and time, like on the dakotas i think they use just over a half barrel and 3/4 barrel on Waynes V10 dodge. If i had some thin gage ss sheet i might build a shorter wider hopper though the wider you go with hopper the taller the funnel needs be too keep chunks from non falling down in the burn tube. so might have too build some sort of funnel shaker is what i was thinking on building if building wider hopper than the barrels. Feel free too ask if sorseing metal is a good choice for overall weight concidering. Happy building any way my first heavy unit is going in my shop for back up generator power and a gas welder. PS i wouldent go smaller than 10" burn tube width, due too you can use bigger chunks the bigger the burn tube. Many of your design building Questains may need too be ask in the preamium section, Thanks.