Just as a side note, the Greenworks 80v uses 8mm bolts to hold the bar on, which are the same as what Husqvarna uses.
you could make one. but it would be awkward to have the cord coming out where the battery plugs in.
chances are with an EMP, it will short the windings. You will most likely need to be able to rewind it. I have a feeling whoever can wind a motor, and has a way to make copper wire is the winner.
Madflower69, you might be right. So I thought, hmm- I should stash a spool of magnet wire to prepare. I looked up the cost of a pound of various gauge magnet wires in the Mouser catalog on-line. All gauges are well over $100 a pound. Here is a clue from page 20 of the late Dr. Peter Vincent Pry’s textbook “The Power and the Light”: RE: high-altitude EMP effects: “Computers and other equipment having solid-state components are particularly sensitive”. That includes the ignition systems in our engines, both small and automotive. I don’t like the thought that the two-man crosscut saw and the splitting maul will be the only things still working OK. Tone’s wood-gas fueled diesel tractor should still work. Any all-mechanical diesel engine will still work, until your supply of fuel runs out. We who hope to use our electric chainsaws powered by wood-gas-fired engine/generators are hoping the generator’s coils don’t short out too. On page 47, Dr. Pry categorizes EMP into 3 classes by wavelength. Natural geomagnetic disturbances (due to a direct hit by a solar flare) and long-wave EMP only couple with long wires, railroads, fence lines, etc. An example (page 51) is the May 13-15, 1921 solar super-storm which caused damage to railroad switching systems across the U.S. A solar flare 10X as strong occurred in 1859 causing telegraph lines to set afire, and rugged telegraph keys to weld shut. Short and medium wavelength EMP (there is no natural analog) are the types that will fry electronics. I have not read anything yet which predicts rugged electric motors not connected to anything will get fried. Therefore, I think that keeping in a Faraday cage some spare ignition components for our WK fueled engines may be wise, and maybe keeping all our electric chainsaw chargers, generator sets, etc. in a grounded all-steel shed with no windows might be good insurance. I owe you guys a woodcutting test of the Bauer electric chainsaw. It’s on my to-do list.
You can drive yourself nutz trying to cover every base. Anything with chips and circuit boards is vulnerable. I have never worried about things with coils like saws and generators. Certainly wise to keep extra ignition modules in a cage or even have a replacement distributor for your pre-OBD vehicle. Only the condenser on a points ignition would be vulnerable. I’m not sure you guys have understood how significant Tone’s development of a WG diesel will be in the event of some nuke EMP or Carrington Event.
Magnet wire is just copper wire with a insulation coating on it. It is now a plastic like polyurethane or polyvinyl formal or enamel coated but they originally used shellac.
For jewelry making, they start with ingots and run it through a roller mill, and then through a draw plate.
According to chatgpt:
“During an EMP event, a sudden surge of electromagnetic energy can induce high
voltages and currents in nearby conductive materials, including ungrounded
copper wire.”
But anything conductive will act as an antenna, then it creates electric and can create high voltage, and high currents, which especially electronics aren’t typically designed to handle. You can get magic blue smoke from plugging 5v into a 3v component.
In other words, a giant faraday cage storing a generator and electric tools is really the only way to protect from an EMP event. Most metal garages offer some shielding.
It depends, and not all faraday cages block all wavelengths. They have trouble with x-rays and gamma-rays. So it depends on the EMP event, and I honestly have not looked at EMP that closely.
A lot of stuff is already shielded to protect the environment because the components themselves emit EM radiation, but it also works backwards. It is like a government requirement kind of like UL certification but another certification.
Exactly. I keep all old microwave ovens. They are shielded broadcasting outward.
So here’s hoping for storage cubes. Three previously used VCR players parked inside. With my most favorite VCR tapes. Our wedding video. My early 1990’s recoded series of “Above and Beyond”, S.F. re-play of the US/Japanese Pacific War. As good IMHO as any of the later productions.
Disney classics.
Other real classics movies.
Degaussing, cleaning magnetic heads is lower tech, more long term than aging out laser readers.
S.U.
I said I wasn’t going to fell a tree with my Electric chainsaw, but I took out a 20" trunk from a European tri-color birch that was leaning over the house. It made the felling cuts in one charge with about half left. It fell where I wanted it. No one was hurt. Nothing was damaged. so I will call it a win. 
It did take 4-5 recharges to cut up the trunk and trim off the branches because of the small battery.
My gardentools are Husqvarna. Two chainsaws 12 m/s and 20 m/s. That is the difference. My friend has Ego, it fits him 
. Jokes aside, I think Ego might be better. Cheaper anyway and higher voltage. Cutting speed is the same. Anyway, my husky is doing a great job, one or two batteries per half day and no noise, I love it.
Long story short, as long as chain speed is ok, cutting is ok.
Can you post the model numbers?
We are going to be transitioning to battery saws eventually, we can’t buy Remington Versa Saws anymore. Also, our last Husqvarna saw was made in China, so might as well shop at Harbor Freight if I am buying Chinese.
Anyone happy with the Atlas saws?
Ok, I am going to try the 18v Atlas…
The battery charger sings with the modified sine wave inverter. Saw does not come with a wrench for tightening the chain.
Saw weighs as much as the .028 Stihl.
Saw does not come with chisel tooth chain.
Chain speed seems fast.
$44 for the two year warranty.
Batteries were $100 a piece on sale. Saw was $149.
We bought the corded Bauer for $65, for use on the buck. We didn’t get the warranty, as we will blow this up within 90days.
I will make a picture tomorrow. The new husky is no joke. He is doing real work. Downside is the price but for me it is cheaper to stick to the brand then buying now batt all over.
That’s my philosophy about HF power tools as well Bruce. Don’t buy them and let them sit. Use the crap out of them in the 90 days. If they don’t break right away they will usually be good for the long haul. Please report on how the bauer saw performs. I was thinking about getting one for cutting branches to length, out of my pile.
I’m not sure it is legal to sell a consumer saw with a chisel chain because of the kickback. I think everything has to be low-kickback. Now if you buy from a saw shop, they credit you for the chain and swap to a chisel chain.
I bought the greenworks because of the higher rpms, and I read about issues in the comments about getting parts for the atlas. I have the Greenworks GCS80420 and on a prime day sale it was $227 with a 2ah (too small) battery. Tools didn’t come with it either.
both matt and cody have other versions of the greenworks, which contributed to why I went with the brand. You only get 30 days with amazon for returns though.
not for sale in EU. Maybe 80 V is to much? Specs are ok. You wont regret it.
I personally use a #CSC408, 60V Ultrapower with a 20" bar. It’s a skinny bar though, but the one I got from the Greenworks website came with an 8AH battery. It’s crazy fast in chain speed. I wanted the 60V because my mother has other 60v tools from them so I’d have some quick backup batteries if I needed to finish a cut and drained my 8ah.
I had also bought a Gen 1 80v with a 2AH and gave it to my dad. More substantial bar but only 18". He hardly ever needs a chainsaw but I wanted him to have something ready to use in a moments notice. He likes the weight, just drop it on whatever you’re bucking and it does the work for you.
As promised.
The 136 is useless, the 340 is a great one.
Gamma is a throw way but it doesnt die. This one is reserve but the other one stays alive. Before Covid €60, now after covid inflation €120.
Stihl clone with ripped of cord. Probably still works.
That s all. Chainsaws scare me. You cut your leg in half to fast. No work no money. Only if I have to they are used.
Not the voltage, it is the chainspeed. The EU created “safety” standards based on the chainspeed. Class 1 maxes out at 20m/s which is how fast the 60v is… Class 2 and 3 of course has additional requirements. I was told by someone in Europe involved in Energiewende, they were put in place as a protectionist measure to protect Stihl’s lucrative Professional/Commercial marketshare. They probably require a training certificate and a dealer to that has certification to train people to sell them.
This one is 36 volts and has been working good for a couple years now. Not good for big stuff but pretty convenient for trimming branches or cutting up firewood that don’t quite fit in the furnace. Being able to cut inside in the furnace room without fumes is nice.
Well I finally bought it. Running it with the flex volt 15ah batteries, it does not disappoint. Stuff it in a 30 in log and it eats. Bore cuts, no problem. it is still not my 372xp, but I would choose it over a farm boss any day!
