Thank you Bill, yes I am definitely going to wood gas it. I can position the wood any where on the anvil, high to the right or low to the left and it will cut it, the blade motions are slicing and chopping at the same time. Putting the branch in at a angle seems to stop the branch from moving so much, and two hands on the wood is always better. The drier the wood the harder it cuts. Fresh cut cherry pruning will be easy to cut up.
My engine is a Predator 420cc I think that 13 hp. 1800 rpm. at idle + 50 or -50 rpm. With the 1:8.8 ratio the blade is tuning 1 revolution a second at 1/4 trottle or faster at full trottle.
The anvil and blade have a 1/8" gap at the bottom to 1/4" gap at the very top right. Itâs adjustable but I do not want it to touch and start squealing with metal to metal sound. Thatâs like finger nails going down a chalkboard to me, no thank you. Lol
Bob
Watch out, that chunking is as addictive as woodgas itself. Youâll run out of bags and storage and will have to hire a full time driver on the Dakota to keep up burning the wood 
Allright Bob! You will sure hive xour choping arm a break!
What JO sayd about the adiction
Ha ha, JO. This is the first time now since I started to DOW that I feel like I can finally processes enough wood to drive full time on wood. I would love to run out of bags and places to store fuel for the Dodge Dakota. But that truck eats about a pound a mile. Maybe more at highway speeds and it is up hill no matter which way I drive around here.
It is funny but no one is interested in driving my truck or wants to learn. I think they are frighten of it. So I just might have to hire someone to chunk wood for me. Lol
Oh by the way all DOW people,
BOBâS DOW FUEL SUPPLY STATION IS NOW HAVING IT GRAND OPENING, COST OF FUEL
PER BAG FOR MEMBERS. $00.00 , YOU SUPPLY THE BAG. ALL OVER SEAS DOW ARE WELCOME. MUST LOAD YOUR OWN WOOD. AT: 3802 NW Empire Ave, East Wennatchee, Washington. 98802
Bob
Yes Kristijan, no more shoulder, arm, and hand cramps at night. Did some chopping awhile back and over did it. Man was I sore for a day or two. Ouch. Didnât feel like going out and DOW.
Bob
Hi, Bob!
7.11.2017
You have built a sturdy chopper!
Still, if you attach a twin anvil, with the edges inward toward the rotating blade, the âgripâ would be more smooth and peaceful.
Twins starting from the upper right corner, smooth bending (curwing) to the bottom leg.
Curving takes away the âhard hitâ, and the handling feels smoother.
What ever smoothing in the cut, the longer it feels good⌠it can also promote clear, threadless bits.
But avoid the exact same curvature as the rotating blade has! In that case it will start âhammeringâ and can âbite itselfâ.
The âcrossing pointâ should wander slowly upward during a cut.
Starting at the bottom and smoothly wander up to the right upper corner.
That way the anvil-pair will contribute to the active cutting.
This really needs pre-modelling!
Hello Bob, It seems like from the video that you have achieved more of a chopping action rather than the smooth slicing action most are using. I think your gearbox will withstand the shock loads for a long time. Not so sure about your arm.
Wow!
That is a powerful chunking machine
BIG CONGRATULATIONS
I will go into a winter shutdown on the airport project and plan a trip with lots of empty bags!
Take it easy on the snowboard us senior folks donât bounce as well as we used to.
Thanks for the information, the hard hitting it does have when trying the chunk the larger dry old cherry wood, the poplar wood was less hitting, the green woods were smooth chunking. My blade had some curled edge spots that needed to be dressed up that really helped with the cutting action.
Bob
Good job Bob. As I watched the first video, the thought came to mind that your were doing just what I did and it got me in trouble. You keep going for a bigger diameter stick each time trying to see how big it will chunk. In the second video I see you had the same results as I did. I kept going bigger until I rolled the edge of my blade. My blade at that time was a semi truck rim. I had a piece of pipe 12 in dia. that I was saving for a WK gasifier. I stole the end off the pipe for a new thicker blade.
As you seem to be finding out, the chunker works a little smoother if you feed the stick in at a angle instead of straight on. ( ? canât explain it )
I like the gas engine. I am still using the PTO off my tractor.
Again Good job. TomC
Ha ha, yes Andy it does look like that it hitting hard. I found that feeding the wood in at a angle changed how the chunker cut the wood, learning curve. The green wood that was not on the video cut like a hot knife through butter no problem even on a 5". Sharping the blade up getting rid of the curled rolled edge spots really helped too. Hard old cherry wood is tough to cut on any chunked. The thing I liked is I didnât have to run it at full throttle to chunk wood , so there will be plenty of horse power to spare to run the conveyor belt and run on wood gas.
Bob
An axe works the same way. One could experiment with an axe to get ideas from.
Axes are sharpened with two angles. One angle is small and thins the blade. The tip is a much larger angle but sharp edge however the blunter angle gives the sharp edge strength.
nice bob Iâm sure it feels good to be a chunking . before you get to much chunked try to get some in the truck to see how well it likes it . the blocks you were making will run and funnel down a lot different than what the chunker makes . I had problems and went back to cookies but I see a lot of people here have no problems hopefully you will run fine .
Hereâs a video of my blade coming though the anvil, to show the slicing ,cutting, chopping motions of the blades and anvils.
after cutting on some more 3 year old 5 1/2" to 6" dry cherry, and very hard wood I could see some flexing in the front face plate. So I know the limit of the chunker on dry hard cherry wood. Even with beefing the face plateup with more steel, 5" will be the limit. Fresh cut will go up to 7".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DnXu3bN0mA&t=6s
The video cut off short, not sure why.
Bob
I really like that spring loaded anvil idea. It gives you a flat surface to push in for the next cut but still allows for scissors action. Very clever.
Good morning Mr. Bob
Thanks for the pictures and video of your chunker. Looks like you are making good progress.
I wanted to post a couple of thoughts on wood chunking and hope not to be hijacking your thread.
I like to think of a wood chunker as being a wood slicer. On the rotation of the blade I think it is best to have the blade in contact with the wood as long as possible with just enough time to insert the next cut.
On my chunker the blade stays in contact with the wood over half of the rotation cycle . It is more of a slicing motion vs chopping motion.
The geometry of the spinning cylinder as a blade makes it more rigid than a flat plate and less likely to flex. My blade is sharpen on one side so that any flex will force it in the direction of the anvil where there is a very close tolerance and gives the cut the scissor effect.
A portion of the wood feed opening has an anvil on each side of the cut which takes out any jarring of the feed stock being fed into the machine .
The last part of the below video shows the slicing effect . The video is 5 years old and the old machine is still working fine.
The picture is wood chunked just this week
HWWT
Also some close pics of anvil and blade
Thanks Wayne, no problem. I have noticed the cylinder stile does have a longer slicing motion. Thanks for the video and pictures. Your advice is always welcome as others, thatâs what makes this site the the Best there is.
Putting the anvil on both sides of the blade is going to be my next modification.
Bob
Hi Wayne,
How often do you sharpen the blade? Have you got a idea of the quality of the steel?
I realy like the autofeed on your chunker and am seriously thinking of buildind a chunker just like yours from the book but with the ability to cut stove firewood too.
Good morning Kristijan .
I canât remember the last time I sharpen the blade but just a WAG is a couple years back.
This is the tire rim and my guess is mild steel ??
Keep in mind I donât chunk dry wood.
Dry wood vs. Green wood, is like Night and Day. I am looking forward to the fresh pruned branches that will come off the cherry orchard this coming late winter, early spring. Dry wood = hard to cut.
Bob