Bob
I want to question adding a cutting anvil on the other side of the blade
The way it is now you also get a breaking action
If a dry hard limb is supported on both sides of the blade the shearing action is all you get
I can see the logic to having a small groove for the largest portion of the blade to enter as that would cut any stringy parts
Hi Michael, you are right. I think the only way I have been getting away with the short distance on the cutting action is the anvil cutting blade cutting action also. I can see it in the wood cutting and breaking action pieces.
After looking at my video I made, I realized I made a mistake. I looked at my drawing and paper blade model, I welded my blade in the wrong position on the lever arm of the bailer. It is off by 2". OOPS. To correct it I am going to have to reshape the blade. Once that has been done it will have more of a licing motion and less chopping. For now I will not be cutting any big hard wood. I might even add on to the back of the blade and make the blade contact longer. For now I will build a change in the lower anvil. It will have more of a V shape to help stop the chopping action. Thank you all for the valuable input, I appreciate it very much.
Bob
Bob,
Seems like it is working good now! I will not under-estimate your ability to make it work even better. Maybe shrink your brush piles a bit more before you make that blade any smaller… My scrap-keeping side is now struggling with my wanna-gotta-get-something-built side. I am gridlocked with junk piles and lost work-spaces and cold weather / time change early darkness blues. I am going to put the computer down now and go do something! Your wood chunker is an inspiration. Thanks!
Thank you Mike, the weather here is in the winter mode so it will just have chunk smaller pieces for now. I will reshape the curve of the blade next year in the spring.
I have been looking it over and I can build a wheel stile into the present build I have now. That would give me two different types of cutting actions. Most of the videos I have watched have been cutting green branches and not hard dry wood.
Bob
Yes big,big diffnerce between handling/forming/shaping woods from green-wet to dry-hard.
This can be observed in many ways.
I tried to explain this once . . . feel that I failed then.
So . . . again . . . maybe. . .
"Wood’ is many separated layers of fibers. Wet and/or sap filled between the layers of fibers and cutting/searing you are mostly only streach, then nick cutting one fiber layer at a time. The dense, non-compressible moisture’s filling between the fiber layers serving to keep the layers somewhat separated for individual layer cutting.
“Dry” woods and the empty sap spaces between the fiber layers are easily compression pressure collapsed. The fibers layers stack up then presenting you with a fiber bundle to have to handle. Out-of-many:One. One tough made problem to handle then.
Rotary toothed sawing, and blade planing of dry wood works so well because these are a lifting actions; Not compressing down on the fibers layers.
tree-farmer Steve unruh
Fast debiting of wood! Hands in danger?
Here is the first load of freshly pruned cherry wood, one of many that will be going to the wood chunker and retort when the smaller limbs dry out.
Right, the kind of temporary setbacks we have in June 
In JUNE, every 20 years or so it might snow in June here and melts fast, but it will snow in the mountains around us at about 2500 feet and higher elevations. We just get rain here for our much needed dry land, all crops are irrigated, except the dry land wheat which is in the eastern central part of the state.
Bob
Well it finally happened, I’m almost out of wood.
Went out this morning and adjusted the spring anvil blade closer to the cutting blade on my wood chunker. It was about 3/8" to from the blade now it is about a 1/16 to1/8" from the blade.
I did some chunking on some 4" dry branches. That’s as large as I think I should go, green one I can go a little larger. A half hour of chunking dry branches and I have a few hundred miles of wood to burn. This dry wood is ready to go into the gasifier.
Yesterday when I was driving down the orchard roads I noticed a pile of long boards about 2 x 2 8 to 10 feet long , they are used for propping tree limbs up when they have a heavy load of apples on the branches. The wood is all gray and cracked probably 30 years old. I know the orchard has been gone for 20 years.
Question: Would this wood still be good to run in my wood gasifier or should I just make it into charcoal? It’s more than likely fir or pine. I know there is no sap in the wood. I have seen these old piles of wood laying around here and there just wasting away. When they remove the orchard and never plant it again.
Bob
In your dry climate, they are probably not rotting. If orchards keep all their stuff forever like midwest farmers do, some of those poles may be tight-ringed old growth. maybe make furniture out of them! 
Actually, I can’t think why they would not work for either charcoal or raw wood gasifiers.
As long as the wood is structurally sound, meaning it is not half rotten, I have put thousands of lbs through my gasifier and could not tell any difference.
Dry hard wood gets processed with bandsaw and hatchet which makes for more work, but then ready to use
hi bob mac i watched you chunker vidio and it looks like blade is a flat rotor shape, just woundered if there is a bearing on each side of the blade, it seems i might be less app too bend the shaft. then again them gear boxes look heavy enough with out outer bearing support.??
Hi Kevin, the gear box on the square bailer is very heavy duty. It also has one stationary straight blade and one that rotating curved blade when the wood comes in contact with the straight blade the spring loaded plate in front of the blade move back exposing the blade so there are two cutting edges like in a rebak cutting mechanism. The action is a chopping slicing action, great for chopping/slicing dry wood and fracturing. Cuts green wood like butter. Cherry wood is very hard wood when it dry for a couple of years.
I think the shaft is 3 1/4" shaft.
Bob
Thanks Bob Mac is the botton blade power turning or just on bearing, thats one big gear box back in those days.
If you have ever looked a bailer arm, it is attached to a stuffing rod and plate that packs the hay into a square bail. I cut the arm off and welded the cutting blade to the remaining piece that is attached to the shaft. The bearings are huge because of the forces in the bailer. Cutting wood uses less force than bailing hay.
Just go back to the beginning of the building thread and you will see what I have done.
Bob
Thanks Bob Mac i caint seem too find that perticular picture. Would it be hard too draw the set up of the bottom rotor blade location too the top blade, I am trying too get a basic cut away view. All the farm feilds around hear are all scraped out of the older bailers, never really seem one in person.Thanks.
Yup you do see them but most of them around in this area are not bailing hay anymore. This one was given to me to just haul it away. I like that kind of price tag. We were buying hay from the farmer for our goats. And I saw the bailer setting there rusting away.
Bob
Good morning Bob mac , i am looking at your bailergear box and it looks wider on the pulley, the pulley on mine is 22" accrost and 4" wide, is that what your bailer gear box measures, thanks.
