Energy Cast SYS. CA
Here in CA things are different from the rest of the country. Here we
have some thing I have been studding for a wile now and I call it the
energy cast system. Most people can agree that there lives are dependent
on energy. whether it be electricity, gasoline, diesel, and so on. now
the amount of work one can get don in ones life is dependent upon how
much energy one can a ford to buy, or can make one way or the other.
While making ones own energy is good, it cant beat the energy available
for money, That what we are going to concentrate on here. If one is
going to buy energy one wants the most for there money. We will look
mostly at cars, mostly for the reason that the principle is the same
across the board. Here in CA if your poor the car that you can a ford is
most likely going to have a N/A (naturally aspirated) gasoline engine.
Now these are cheep and readily available. The problem is that, that set
up is the most inefficient set up there is. At max were talking in the
aria of 45% of the energy from the gasoline goes to the wheels the rest
is lost to heat and mechanical necessity. now if one can a ford a
supercharger or turbo and the car to run it you will get more
efficiency, and if you are rich here in CA you MIGHT be able to a ford a
Diesel and get even more efficiency. But even now CA is making that
more expensive. So to conclude if you all ready have money you will be
able to save the most. If your poor you will never be able to get or a
ford enof energy to actually be able to save money to maybe a ford
abetter car. Well this year 2019 I am declaring that im am moving into
the next cast of energy and am never looking back. How can i do this
with no money? I have some thing that is far more valuable than money, a
brain. Recently dew to the high cost of energy almost every other
county dosent really build N/A cars any more. Everything has some form
of induction (turbo/supercharger). Dew to this there are plenty of
spares kicking about. Were it use to cost over 1000$ for a supercharger.
If your savy you can get a good used one for around 250$ to 400$. the
only problem is, one has to have the knowledge to fit parts that dont
necessarily or normally go together. i have baut a AMR500 supercharger
and im fitting it to my wood powered beetle truck. Not only will it give
me more power but more efficiently. It should make the wood gas sys
work better as well. So after this i see no reason to ever build another
N/A engine. The long term effects. Well i need to build a new V-8 for
my truck. since i dont have to smog it (on a side note non smog cars are
VERY expensive here in CA dew to the fact you can do this) i see no
reason to build a N/A v-8. Its going to be great! to have my truck with
the power it should have and never was equipped with from the factory.
from the factory it got 150 HP aprox 250 ftlbs @ a coast of 8-10 MPG. im
shooting for 300 hp with 300-400 ftlbs @ a cost of 14-20 MPG out of a
351 Windsor, its original engine.it is possible and i am existed
If you can do it, Go for it! Supercharging looks like a win / win if you have the skills.
Good Morning Xoie I.
There is some truth to your thinking.
But you really do need to factor-in overall vehicle running cost too as important as just fuel-in useages.
IF you want long service life out of exhaust-turbo-chargers and engine belt driven superchargers you will have to become dependent on much more expensive synthetic grade oils.
It’s true. The exhaust-made hot turbo charger center bearings will cook and carbons crystallize normal, inexpensive engine oils.
And factory supercharger systems like GM/Buick and others proved to need better heat resistant engine oils too.
My wif’es last choice of a late model Ford Edge as a case in point. Three different engines available: a dual-turbo 2.7L V-6; a naturally aspirated 3.5L V-6; and a sports dual-turbo 3.5L V-6. The turboed engines must use full synthetic engine oils. The naturally aspirated one recommend using a much more common, less expensive 5W-20 semi-synthetic. And can use non-synthetic 10W-30 handily in above freezing weather. Much simpler engine controls systems too. With far fewer aging vehicle potential problems.
Supercharged Buick’s are know for many sources oil leak’ers, killing the rubber engine mounts.
And I have never seen a factory Turbo’ed system that at 10 years+/150K miles that had not become a turbo oils and coolant water leaking mess. (The best factory systems DO engine coolant loop cool the turbo-bearing center section to prevent hot-running shutdown cooking of the remaining in-turbo lubricating oil. The exhaust castings transferring heat over doing this with no longer any air flows.)
90’s and many early 2000’s naturally aspirated engine used to be very cheap to L-O-N-G service life’s maintain. Many of the Honda owners with 300-500K mile swore by using only straight detergent 30W standard oils.
Ha! Then, Honda and Toyota evolved changed to active variable both intake and exhaust valve timing. They then needed 0W-20 motor oil to keep these systems working deep freeze cold starting up, to desert-hot. ONLY super grade synthetic oils can be made in this spec.
You can study up on turbo charger upgrade changes need making by going back to the 1980’s Chrysler original, then StageII, then StageIII systems. Saab and Volvo systems in that same era.
Your high living altitude and you would benefit from some forced induction “normalizing” alright.
I have tiny little turbo laying around for a few years now. Just never had the chance to mess with it. I have a Predator V twin here that Needs rebuilt and plan on using it for a next gen demo. Now that I no longer have any moisture in in the gas, I am thinking of using this little bugger. I think adding a turbo in the case of a gasified system has a little more to offer. You are eliminating the vacuum restriction and boosting compression. Problem is if you have access moisture in your gas or make any tar, that turbo may not spin so well after a while.
i all redy put VR racing oil in my VW it has a spin on filter and a external cooler run buy a full flow oiling sys but this is getting hard to get here in CA it seams any thing good they ban here i might go ams dominater or a cheaper synthetic with lucas added and the supercharger im using comes from a Mini/subaru the amr500 has a excellent servis history and i only need to run 2:1 to get 5 lbs boost and with this low of boost its just enoft to bring the engine to life but wont need forged pistons BTW this engine was had rebuilt buy me personally with the most stringent attention payed so its of known quantity i would also like to add i use my VW as a test bed for new tech i want to try on cars IE the wood gasifier so i dont mind if i have to rebuild the engine again its not that expensive (one of the main reasons i chose a type 1 VW) i need to learn this b4 i build my v-8
Hello Xoie I,
Good.Good. It seems you have a good awareness of the needs once you do go with boosting.
Yes with the small internal oil capacities in most driven superchargers lube costs are just not a factor.
You’ve actually become a bit of a hero of mine . . .
build with cast-offs . . .
and strongly in the Operator Experience Counts Most camp-of-believers with your statement on another topic - that a good operator can make any gasifier system work.
Keep up the pursuing, man.