Top thermometer is temp out of filter, next is top of hopper, bottom is into filter over 300 degrees c.
Resistance across filter in mbar.
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About the thread i had the luck to talk to a upholstery shop that used to repair firefighters uniforms, i got a roll of sturdy glass-fibre thread, rated for 1200°c.
Donât know where to find it otherwise?
To my new filter im going to use stainless steel staples, it worked good on the new chevy filter.
Glass-fibre fabric may be to thick for staples though?
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I wonder if kevlar wire would work, I believe it is heat resistant. I use stainless steel staples and silicone, on my current filter, maybe easier than asking the wife about the sewing machine
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Yes, it should work, thanks Al.
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I believe the first post in my âwoodrunner chevyâ topic has some picâs of the filter, here it is very dirty, maybe even not dumped the soot in 6 monthâs?
You see the spacing is greater in the outer radius, inner 5cm/2" is mostly clogged all the time, in the âVâ.
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Yes, kevlar wire is heat resistant, i believe only to 300-400°c, but that would maybe be enough.
It is much stronger than the glass-fibre thread also, kevlar is extremely strong.
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Any particular reason to not just use stainless steel thread? It just seems like it would be cheaper.
Maybe something like this:
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So you are saying the out side 2/3 rd. of the side have enough gap spacing to filter and the inter part is clogged up with soot, around the pipe with many holes in it. Do you shoot it with a blast of air inside the pipe to clean it off good?
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If i understand correctly, what he is saying is it fills up too fast for his purpose. He doesnât want to clean it that often and was actually hoping it would more it less clean itself. It is far easier and less time consuming/messy if it cakes up then falls off in clumps. It is a great goal, hopefully he can achieve it.
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I would think stainless wire will be too sharp for the fiberglass, it will cut it.
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I donât know. It has been used in âwearablesâ(clothing with electronics in it) as the conductor wire in clothing for probably a decade, but there is other thread now that is stretchier. Kevlar is stretchy, but I donât know how important that is if staples work.
My other idea which you are probably going to trash. Is to put the filter on a coil spring and you can either press it down and it springs back to clean, or possibly it sways enough so a stop would make it sway a bit and knock cakes off it.
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Yes, a spring would maybe work, a guy from BorlÀnge had a similar shape on his filter on his Mercedes, although he had a horizontal filter.
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I donât know much about making them, but it might fit in your existing filter bag. If it is something that interests you. The cylindrical shape should be pretty strong and hold itâs shape well.
It looks like you use âpiano wireâ or 1085 spring tempered wire and just roll it around something with tension. The wire is fairly inexpensive.
Here is the video I watched.
and the book he used which has tables but may not have something close for the purpose but also gives the formulas, and I think I found an online calculator a few years ago. Figuring out how flexible your fabric is and what pressure is the minimum tension needs to be doesnât have to be perfect.
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Well, to make things clear, my filter works good for how i used it, no troubles until it ripped, actually self cleaning due to itâs large area (13m2) the inner clogged third donât affected the performance noticeable.
The half clogged filter in the picâs is only neglected maintenance from the driver ( 
)
I never cleaned the fabric, no brushing or blowing, only dumping the soot and char in the collecting box in the bottom, which i in this case neglected for maybe 6 monthâs occasionally driving, the truck still ran ok (!), but here i parked it due to cracks in the heart.
Im not saying this is the way to go, just showing Jan how it can be done (and how it shouldnt)
Edit: i forgot, the filter is now 10m2 after i rebuilt it.
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I found some picâs from woodrunner chevy topic, showing the new filter, and the soot-cake.
This is how it should look.
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If you are interested in trying and since it is on my mind, and I might as well document it. If you want a compression spring. Instead of using an arbor the size you want, which is big and bulky. I bet a pulley with the center hole drilled so it is at an angle kind of like slash / mounted on a long pipe would work. And alternatively, an adapter that fits between the pulley and the pipe so the angle can be easily changed. Then it can be formed from wood or 3d printed (even in parts). then you also wouldnât have to move the feeder/tensioning mechanism.
And here is a free online spring calculator.
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Do you know if I can use this oil in the gearbox?
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Hi Jan, i âguessâ it may work, if this ATF-u is the same as Dexron VI (dx4).
I remember using ATF Dexron III when i had an s-10.
(Only ATF i use, used to buy 20 liters cheap on Swedol)
It should work using dexron VI instead of dexron III.
I hope our American friends help you out, this ATF-oils is a âdjungleâ
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GM recommends Dexron VI like you said Goran. I never go outside their recommendations. Too much money in transmissions to try and find alternates.
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