I found this article that I thought would be relevant to wood gassers here. It was an experiment done some time ago on the effect of moisture in igniting CO/ O2 fuel air mixtures. What I got from the article was that to a point the higher the moisture content the BETTER the fuel air mixture burned. As in a more rapid flame front development. Which naturally seemed a little contradictory to me. Here’s the link, let me know what you guys think. Pretty interesting.
I have seen water vapour injection used on Diesel engines, it does give a quite noticeable increase in power. I may be wrong but I thought it was due to the cooling effect making the air more dense.
I’m not positive, but I believe the water “vapour” injection in engines is more about converting excess heat (which there is a lot of) in the engines into more mechanical energy because the water (in mist form, not actual vapor) hits the hot piston head and instantly turns to steam. The liquid water to steam expansion ratio is much higher (roughly 1,000 to 1, if I remember right) than liquid dino to flame expansion ratio.
Brian, your post reminds me of this six stroke engine. http://www.damninteresting.com/the-six-stroke-engine/
i think that if you are getting any condensates out of your gasifier at all, adding water will only get you more condensates…
I should read the whole post before i comment… lol… water injection into the engine itself once hot, may result in more power… i know it can with gasoline… but i’m thinking i worked more on high horse power, high compression engines that what would be considered run of the mill engines we have today.
Hmmm. Yes it is true. Practical experiences say well that to “up to a point” moisture into the woodgasifier Reduction process can be benifical. And yes up to a point beneficial into a piston IC engine Combustion process.
Easily observed by most seasonally actually out in the real world doing things with these.
Most of us seaonally have TOO much water inhibiting these proceees. Only a very small time would most ever want to add any water in any form.
Some of us have this experience refreashed yearly whether we want it or not.
Anyone want to intern with me for a whole year and learn running moistures realities??
Picture today typical here of 80% of our operating conditions PNW wetside. Gasifiers MUST work in this. Engines MUST work in this. We do.
The keys to getting back that “lost” power in IC engines is
#1 Better gasses flows in and out. Known since the 40’s. 90’s and laters now dry manifold port FI engines do this best.
#2 Highest possble practical compression ratios. Late 90’s and later again electronically fuel injected gasoline engines are back up into 9 to 1 and 10 to 1. (It was the then hot running still 10-11 to 1 70’s vehicles all leans ajuster to misfiring that benififited the most then running “new” unleaded gasoline from some water/alchhol vapoeing bubbling to compensate for that change to string then along untill age out.) Again this is what they knew back in the 40’s and 50’s having barely climbed out of 4 to1 up to 7 to 1 and dreamed of what we have available today for 10 cents on the dollar used. 13 to 1 would be better but then not be dual fuel pump gasoline capable. Important in a practical to use vehicle. Some stationary setups could build up to.
#3 Active ignition timing control that CAN change with the changing woodfuel gas composition, changing system mechanical loads, and all other operating changes like temperatures, humidities and barometric pressures. Say! Here we go again. Active ignition timing contols are somthing been factory built into most early 90’s vehicle systems and into ALL US sold vehicle systems since 1996. These are only in the last 5 years coming on more small engine systems. Manditory for emmisions now.
There are now at least 10 woodgas driving fellows here now as proof of these primary power factors woodgas running these types of vehicle systems now.
Those still runnig 50’s - 70’s based systems can take heart in their 30-50% engine based power reduction systems that they then do not have to invest the time and effort to learn the factory eletronics to keep these now aging, getting older later electronically controlled engines systems kept up and running. Not so bad now with all of the Internet support groups experence.
Point IS, there never is any single majic bullet. No single factor. No single bolt on, or bolt in. Every change will have consequnces maybe good - for sure some bad taking even more changes to fix, the fix. Too many stacked on fixes spoils any soup.
Think not? Out if the three primary colors mix up chartreuse. Try, try again and you will get there. Measure sucess not by how many tries, but by the getting there. Can’t think your way to it. Math scheme to it.
Same as woodgas making and loaded engine running with it.
It’s not the work it took to get to it - it’s the results usable.
thank you Steve
Well here is a cheap experiment for those that may be interested. The link is to an ultra sonic mist maker on Ebay. This will make a very fine mist you could easily inject into your engine.