FMEA gas generator, does it work on a car?
Or will the gas will not be clean enough.
Hope you apologize for the language.
Hi Jan, and welcome to the DOW site. The FMEA gasifier will produce tar very easily when running. Many have tared up IC Engines using them, it is hard to keep them burning and producing tar free wood gas. It was not designed with long term production in mind.
If you want a well proven gasifier that will work, go with The WK Gasifier Design, there is also the Imbert that works well especially in a genset for generation of power.
Start looking around on the site. There is charcoal gasifiers that work well on powering vechiles.
What car were you planning on installing one on?
Namnet antyder att du är svensk. Om inte så i alla fall…
Välkommen till DOW
Welcome to DOW
Fema is a tar maker. Emergency use was the original purpose for it. No air blast from nozzles and too much fuel active simultaneously => Not enough heat created to burn the tary gasses. Will eventually gum up your engine. Valves will stick when the engine cools down and you risk destroying your pushrods, rockerarms and even worse, if you run an interference engine, make pistons smash into valves.
Hot nozzle blast and right sized dry fuel is the key. The rest - personal preferences.
Spend some time reading building/driving threads on the forum. Order the premium membership if you want access to the real goodies.
Ops, Bob beat me to it again
Hi JO, I didn’t realize you two were from the same country. This is nice getting more people involved from one of the countries that started the original gasification of vehicle and gensets.
Thanks for your answers, thought there were problems with the gas with that construction.
Which truck I do not know yet, must buy one that is older than 1988, according to the Swedish law.
Started making a generator for 10-15 years ago,
but never got done, thought Fmea looked easy to do.
Welcome to the DOW JanA.
The FEMA is an example of too over simplified.
Many examples too of far too over-complex and sophisticated in gasifier designs.
You want the reasonable work proven designs that compromize in the middle.
Vesa Mikonnen’s. Stig-Eric Werner tanks units. Johan Lendel re-creations… Imbert&Imbert inspired derivatives. Golhen-Polen (French), Government Swedish and Government Finland inverted V’s&W hearths, WayneKieth’s evolved.
All more complex to build than a FEMA.
All, unlike the FEMA and other “stratified air” designs with air-jet internal zones locations fixing.
All of these unlike other open-toppers with starting up, and shutting down external emissions control. Most with heat and partial converted gasses internal recycling for better fuel-to-gas efficiency conversion. This will mean less unconverted by-products clogging and gumming up the works with real use.
Lots to know.
Do not let it overwhelm you.
See what others have done, real/using. Do then yourself. Get it done in some way first. Improve from there.
Bob, I just took a chance judging from his name
Jan, actually some pickups, >2500kg total weight, are ok up until 1993. My Mazda B2600 is -91 and was registered as flexifuel gengas/bensin last year.
Ok, so you think it is difficult to build a clean unit without having nozzles?
Would it not good for a constriction in, say, Fmea, to increase the flow rate with a restriction of the tube?
The unit I have built is with nozzles, but for me it was complicated, should take a picture when I get home.
Thanks Jan-Ola, it was interesting, it should increase the chances of finding something that fits.
Do you know how to see if the car is legal?
Problem is that you need to set the reaction zone in a fixed locaion in order for a restriction to work. In a fema that culd be anywhere as the flame front wonders. Nozzles set the exact place where the magic happens.
Okay then I understand, what do you use for material in the nozzles, and how long do they last?
Thinking about putting a small unit in my forest machine, it runs frequently at even rpm, but a small engine, Saab v4, do you think it would work?
The nozzles themselfs are not very critical. The air blast inside does a good job cooling them, even with preheated air. Any naked wall around them takes the most beating with short nozzles. On the other hand, with longer nozzles, you risk tary gasses sneak behind them unburned. I use short, cut off 1/4" stainless nipples and stainless plates protecting the wall.
Wow, that would be interesting if you could share some pictures or videos of the V4 machine. Did you build it yourself? Is it a harvester or a forwarder? If it’s used regurarely I guess you could really save some fuel.
About pickup legalness, it’s different for every model in the late 80s and early 90s. You will have to ask the inspector what kind of emission they check on that particular vehicle. If it’s only CO you’re good. Also, you would probably like one that has mpfi. Carburator works too, but it’s a bit more complicated if you want to keep the ability ro run gasoline.
Oh, I forgot to ask where in Sweden you’re at?
Good Morning JanA.
KristijanL. and Jan-Ola have answered well already that you really will need air-nozzle zone fix jets to make a Wide-Range capable IC engine fueling gasifer.
Yes. Yes. Some have made only narrow-range capable gasifers using no-jets open-top techniques. Laboratory-rat systems.
Mr Wayne Kieths current systems did start out as FEMA based a decade and a half ago. Why reading some of his system names it still has a FEMA feel to them. “Fire Tube”.
But he learned to get wide range use capability without hand making (pre-charring) his wood fuel chunks to reduce the made tars he had to step by step add a flow restriction plate. “Choker Plate” A fuel hopper Top cover. Then air jet nozzles.
For a number of years I did drive a Saab sedan with the German V-4 engine. Unusually idle sounding. And fun, fun to twisty roads pull ahead of arrogant heaver chassis Volvo guys. Yeah. Yeah. Some engine cheating and tires cheating done to do that. Mine would never sound detonate/ping. I had to learn to watch for piston aluminum splash onto the spark plugs. Too Much. Back off.
Should woodgas just fine.
Ignition distributor type so you can set up to cable control for cranking/starting ignition timing with easy advance for better power loaded woodgas fueling.
Maybe I should start looking for a wv, which Jo has, it is probably the size of the engine just like the Saab V4, Then i can test both on the Illern, (forwarder) and the truck. The forwarder, I have rebuilt it pretty much from the original, built a double bogie, (where rigid wheels from the beginning).
The drive wheel comes from a tracked vehicle 202, built hydraulic control between trolley and machine, made the belts, built crane and trailer.
Regarding nozzles, I have this on the one built, will empty it and take a photo tomorrow.
Edit, I live in Hörken 11km from Grängesberg.
Jan, you’re actually only an hour from here I live in Bäsna, 15km NW of Borlänge. I was resently invited to Grängesberg to show my gasified Mazda at a nostalgia meetup, but had to turn it down due to work.
Unfortunately the VW is sold, but its gasifier still sits in my shop
I’m impressed by your iller (ferret), a bit envious actually. You did a good job there.
I would guess your wood supply is not an issue. If you’ve got good use for the iller it’s a very good candidate and you could save a lot of fuel using a gasifier.
Hi. I thought you lived near me since I saw the pictures of your nature and when you worked at a paper mill.
Do you have the opportunity to give me some training in building a generator?
Would love to see your car in reality, if you have time at any time.
Edit. Must ask, why did you switch from Wv to Mazda?
I see woodgas bug conquers Sweden once again if only it wuld move some 1200miles south too…
Think there are many around Jo, who are running on gas.
Was on a meeting little further north than Jo, 10- 15 years ago, older guys who had both stationary and on Amazon (Volvo)
No problem Jan, I’d love to help you get going. With the skills you’ve shown converting that Iller, building the crane and everything, it should be a piece of cake.
However, we have a saying here on DOW: “75% operator, 25% machine”. Put me behind the levers in the Illern and I could probably wrack it in minutes. You built it and can avoid any flaws when operating it.
What I’m trying to say is: To ashive the best result, you should be in charge when building the gasifier. But we can all point you in the right direction whenever needed.
Most of us build from the material we happen to have on hand. All DIY gasifiers are a little different.
I could pay you a visit tomorrow if you like. It’s going go rain and I won’t get much done anyway. Not that it matters, but it seems you’re within a hopper’s range. I would love to take a look at the iller too.
About the VW. It was a 1990 and to legally register a lightweight woodgas vehicle it has to be 1975 or older. I had to pull all the equipment every year for inspection. Gasifier, cooler, filter, plumbing, everything.
Also, it was a 2 seat vehicle and wife complained about not being able to bring dogs or grandchildren. Not to mention covering bags of wood on the bed in wet conditions.
Suddenly the Mazda showed up. Timing was perfect. Only weeks after I completed that build the VW failed inspection due to rust. That’s when I made the decision to sell it.
Was the meetup you attended in Dala-Järna? I was there two years ago. I think we were only 6 or 7 vehicles. One from Värmland and one from Köping. Woodgassers around here seem to keep a low profile. I know of noone else around here who DOW on a daily basis. Strange people
Edit: I’ll send you a private message and give you my number.