GAZel GAZogeneratorniy

Experiment 1. General description.
The van was built in 2002.
96 hp
Cylinder diameter, mm 100
Piston stroke, mm 92
Working volume, l 2.89

A gas generator of a transverse process from a gas cylinder (d = 30 cm.). Everything is done according to the classical scheme: gas generator - cyclone (fire extinguisher) — cooler - thin cleaner (206L barrel, hay-straw) - mixer and ignition fan. There is a condensate drain tap in the cooler, it is fully open when driving outside the city, and around the city in different ways, while experimenting.

Management bodies in the photo.
Switch number 1, state I - adjusting the position of the air nozzle flap using a servo drive depending on the angle of rotation of the resistor regulator number 4. State 0 - not adjustable (you can turn the flap with your hands). State II – automatic regulation, not implemented.

Number 2 is the gasoline supply switch to the carburetor.

Number 3 voltmeter- measures the voltage on the oxygen sensor, the sensor is installed after the resonator. (…–1 = 0.6V: 0 = 0.7V; +1 = 0.79 V…)

GAZel is quite a voracious car, especially in the city (for 20 liters per 100 km.) therefore, in addition to its own interest in gas-generating topics, I would like to save money. I drive mostly around the city.

At the first tests, I inflated the gas generator from the fan, and then started it from the gas. The process is long, the fan is weak, and you have to turn the starter for a long time, put the battery in.
Now I’m starting the gasoline engine, and I’m going to set fire to the gas generator (I don’t turn on the ignition fan). While the engine is warming up, the gas generator manages to enter the mode. You can turn off the gasoline supply and drive. During the movement, the transition from gasoline to gas and vice versa occurs imperceptibly.


Experiment 1. Test. Problem.

I am testing a gas generator car mainly in urban mode (I have driven more than 60 km around the city so far), there was only one country trip.
I began to estimate the consumption of coal.
Fuel consumption was calculated using the formula:
hpir^2, where r is the radius of the cylinder, h is the difference (before-after the trip) of fuel levels in the cylinder

The tests are clean in the city, with many stops:
The total mileage per day is 25 km , h = 27 cm. It turned out to be 18 liters of coal. Coal is mostly large, last year.

Country trip:
42+42 = 84 km. (there, back) ~10 of them in the city, but there were few traffic lights, few stops.
h=18.5 +11= 29.5 Consumed 20 liters of coal (suspiciously little). Coal is one small thing, and I collected it from a campfire about 6 years ago.
The usual speed for this route is 70-80 km/h. (I rarely drive more than 80). A country trip on gas is no different from a trip on gasoline, I have nothing more to comment on a country trip.

You can’t call a trip around the city normal, it can stall when you stop at a traffic light, when parking … it happened several times. When you drive at least at low speed, everything is fine, but it’s worth taking your foot off the gas pedal, slowing down, the engine may stall. You often have to press the gas pedal at stops.
If you do not periodically press the gas pedal at stops, then the engine will definitely stall after a minute.
Why can this happen?
How to overcome this disease?
Who has faced such a problem?


Very interesting transverse gasifier, what are you using for a nozzle/tuyere? Is it water cooled, or do you add water vapor to add hydrogen?

As far as stalling when engine is only idling, it is a very common gasifier problem. One way to correct this problem is to open the throttle more when not moving, to pull more on the gas supply and keep the reaction going. You could make an adjustable knob that spools up a cable or wire that pulls on the accelerator pedal to open the throttle body some, but be able to reverse to normal when going back to petrol.


Thanks for the questions and answers.
I have just started testing the gas generator set. The tuyere is a piece of water pipe, it is not cooled by anything.


Hello Vladislav,
I think your gazogeneratorniy (gasifier) is getting cold when you idle. If possible, insulate the gasifier so it will stay hot.


Vladislav, thank you for your presentation.

Like Cody sayd, this is a common problem. In adition to gasifier geting cold, problem is that there is not much drag on the air adjusting valve so the engine gets more air thain gas. You can probably see this effect on your voltmeter right? It drops before it stalls.

A skech of your design wuld be nice, easyer to help you.

To continue… most manualy set the idle higher via string or similar but l never quite liked that… the goal is that the engine gets the same ratio of gas/air all the way from idle to max rpm. So in idle, we need to make the mixture richer. Many ways to do this. Best is an automixer, mechanical and electric ones exist. But it is possible to cheat and get a bypass tube and connecting it from the gas line (go far back the line to avoid it sucking air from the adjusting valve) to the intake manifold, just under the throtle plate is best. This way, when the engine is in idle, strong vacuum will suck a bit of pure gas and richen the mix. When driving vacuum isnt great and the engine sucks litle gas trugh this bypass. Does this make sence?


hello vladislav, nice to hear from you again…i have read that some older gasifiers during idling are using the electric fan with a switch to keep a nice glow and heat in the gasifier hearth…
gohin poulenc from france has had a nozzle with a additonal smaller channel in the nozzles main channel, where the air goes through while idling(connected with a bypass and a valve ,the valve connected with the drivers gas pedal)
through the smaller channel the air sucked in the hearth gets more speed and therefore keeps a smaller part of the glowing area in the right temperature…


Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about isolation, putting it off for later.


Hello Kristijan!
Thanks for the reply. You are right, the voltmeter goes to zero, the mixture becomes depleted and stalls after a while. Just like you, I don’t like the solution to the problem of increasing the speed. There are plans to build automation, but I have not yet decided on the control algorithm.
Automation works well, where it works well without automation))

I probably won’t do that. The transition from gas to gasoline is made by pressing one button.


Hello, giorgio! Thanks for the good advice, there is something to think about!


In 2015 some people here made a mechanical mixing device that seems to work very well.


Vladislav, l think you misunderstood me. With gas l mean woodgas, not petrol!

Look, like this.

But you must tap the gas far back, prefferably on the filter. If you tap too close to the air mixer the engine might suck air back

Edit: l see l draw the line going to before the throttle. It shuld be led to just UNDER the throtle plate.


Hello, r_wesseling!
I’ve already looked at it once, but only briefly. It will be necessary to return to this topic, to understand the essence of regulation. Thanks for the reminder!


Hello, Kristijan!
I didn’t quite understand the essence of the process(
Could you show me how to do it in my drawing?

1 -Filter barrel
2 -Gas
3 - Air
4 - Mixer valve (servo controlled)
5 - Standard car air filter

Just in case, a link to the photo of the mixer.


Like this.

1 throtle body
2 air adjusting valve
3 bypass valve that controlls how much pure gas geslts sucked in at idle.


I sincerely congratulate you, Vladislav, on the manufacture of a gas generator car!


Thank you Kristijan for your great work. I understood the meaning of the bypass.


Marat, thank you. I’m at the beginning of the way…

Марат, спасибо. Я в начале пути…


Vladislav, you have a functional woodgas vehicle. You have made it farther than most ever will. Congratulations on a job well done.


Thank you very much Hans!