Hello Vladislav,
I think your gazogeneratorniy (gasifier) is getting cold when you idle. If possible, insulate the gasifier so it will stay hot.
Rindert
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Vladislav, thank you for your presentation.
Like Cody sayd, this is a common problem. In adition to gasifier geting cold, problem is that there is not much drag on the air adjusting valve so the engine gets more air thain gas. You can probably see this effect on your voltmeter right? It drops before it stalls.
A skech of your design wuld be nice, easyer to help you.
To continue… most manualy set the idle higher via string or similar but l never quite liked that… the goal is that the engine gets the same ratio of gas/air all the way from idle to max rpm. So in idle, we need to make the mixture richer. Many ways to do this. Best is an automixer, mechanical and electric ones exist. But it is possible to cheat and get a bypass tube and connecting it from the gas line (go far back the line to avoid it sucking air from the adjusting valve) to the intake manifold, just under the throtle plate is best. This way, when the engine is in idle, strong vacuum will suck a bit of pure gas and richen the mix. When driving vacuum isnt great and the engine sucks litle gas trugh this bypass. Does this make sence?
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hello vladislav, nice to hear from you again…i have read that some older gasifiers during idling are using the electric fan with a switch to keep a nice glow and heat in the gasifier hearth…
gohin poulenc from france has had a nozzle with a additonal smaller channel in the nozzles main channel, where the air goes through while idling(connected with a bypass and a valve ,the valve connected with the drivers gas pedal)
through the smaller channel the air sucked in the hearth gets more speed and therefore keeps a smaller part of the glowing area in the right temperature…
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Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about isolation, putting it off for later.
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Hello Kristijan!
Thanks for the reply. You are right, the voltmeter goes to zero, the mixture becomes depleted and stalls after a while. Just like you, I don’t like the solution to the problem of increasing the speed. There are plans to build automation, but I have not yet decided on the control algorithm.
Automation works well, where it works well without automation))
I probably won’t do that. The transition from gas to gasoline is made by pressing one button.
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Hello, giorgio! Thanks for the good advice, there is something to think about!
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In 2015 some people here made a mechanical mixing device that seems to work very well.
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Vladislav, l think you misunderstood me. With gas l mean woodgas, not petrol!
Look, like this.
But you must tap the gas far back, prefferably on the filter. If you tap too close to the air mixer the engine might suck air back
Edit: l see l draw the line going to before the throttle. It shuld be led to just UNDER the throtle plate.
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Hello, r_wesseling!
I’ve already looked at it once, but only briefly. It will be necessary to return to this topic, to understand the essence of regulation. Thanks for the reminder!
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Hello, Kristijan!
I didn’t quite understand the essence of the process(
Could you show me how to do it in my drawing?
1 -Filter barrel
2 -Gas
3 - Air
4 - Mixer valve (servo controlled)
5 - Standard car air filter
Just in case, a link to the photo of the mixer.
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Like this.
1 throtle body
2 air adjusting valve
3 bypass valve that controlls how much pure gas geslts sucked in at idle.
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I sincerely congratulate you, Vladislav, on the manufacture of a gas generator car!
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Thank you Kristijan for your great work. I understood the meaning of the bypass.
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Marat, thank you. I’m at the beginning of the way…
Марат, спасибо. Я в начале пути…
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Vladislav, you have a functional woodgas vehicle. You have made it farther than most ever will. Congratulations on a job well done.
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Thank you very much Hans!
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Hi Vladislav
1,0,-1 correspond respectively to a mixture too rich, stoichiometric, too lean?
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Hello Trigaux. Personally, I think if the voltmeter shows a voltage from 0.3 to 0.8 volts, then the fuel mixture is normal.
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Important to say that those are narrow band sensors. They DO NOT represent a linear ratio of A/F vs volage. My observations are about the same. I usualy set my air setting at 800mv for town driveing, and lean it to 300mv for highway.
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a narrow band lambda probe is not very expensive…you can also get one for free on old scrap cars.the electrical signal that these probes produce is valuable information for adjusting the gasifier gas
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