I have been drinking coffee all morning and considering how this should work and why it does not.
I am pretty sure I am missing something.
I never could understand how that governor arm was held straight at the elbow in the first place in normal operation and I still don;t but I added the return spring to keep the elbow straight unless the arm is acted upon by the solenoid.
So today I am going to break this down in steps and work forward from there.
I removed the solenoid from the machine but left the bracket in place.
It occurred to me that they did not need to make these parts separate so maybe this is a place I could shim the solenoid out to extend the reach of the parts and bend that elbow to close the throttle.
But the first step today will be to try and make this new governor arm responsive and get the rpm set and sensitivity right.
Then I will tinker with the shims.
Four hours later I have got the kinks out now and I have everything working sort of.
I still have a slight hunt at 1500 watts and my voltage drops to 107 at 3000 watts.
I doubt I will ever get the hunt to go away but my frequency is steady on between 60 and 59 hz.
Best I ever managed!
The idle control now works too!
I have it shimmed with just two tiny #10 machine screw washers and it works perfect drawing the engine speed down to 1000 rpm and 55V output.
The voltage droop is bothering me.
I have to come up with something to address that.
I think I will try and put the lighting package in and piggy back the power it generates into the exciter circuit and see if I can boost the voltage with more exciter power
I still have power to spare.
I am considering spinning a 40 amp alternator to charge batteries.
Five hours after that…
I decided to pull the cover off the back and look over things.
One row of brushes is not riding on the slip ring correctly.
Just ever so slight hanging off to the side.
The other set is fine.
I think I am going to make some shims next to slide the complete brush rigging over just enough to centre everything.
I also notice some slight streaking and contamination from oil.
Probably assembled by a guy with dirty hands…
There are some faint streaks in the slip rings from wear, nothing critical but they will increase the voltage drop across the brushes… ALL these things together might raise my voltage a measurable amount…
So I am going to cut down a come stone in the morning at work ( ruin hack saw blade in the process )
and glue the little pieces to a stick I can reach in and stone this machine with.
I am going to make some shims for the rigging too.
( I might just cut down some phenolic or glasstick and glue it one the composite base of the rigging… Seems like the most reasonable way to do this… maybe I have some thick Nomex or Mylar sheet I could layer… I don’t know but I guess you guy will see what comes next in the next series of photos )
I want to find a small oil cap to run in parallel to the AC to see if this will boost the output voltage a little .
Why the cap?
Well I have no field control but I want more excitation to increase the field strength and induce a high output voltage.
Well some of you are familiar with induction generators, they only work if you supply reactive power to them.
Well a Synchronous machine also will behave a little like that as well.
in fact if you power factor leads on an syncro machine you have to reduce excitation to keep the voltage in check.
I am going to try make this work in my favour…
In this image you can see how power flows real watts out of the machine and reactive power drawn from the line ( or in my case pretend there is a capacitor not a line and pretend the machine is synchronous )
For those that want to see the math…
Here is a vector diagram and the capacitor will cause a slight leading power factor and the blue line is the induced voltage.
In a lagging situation you can see how this will cause more sagging voltage ( math eh ?)