Sounds like you been talking to a fellow Syracuse NY…
Very reasonable way to go.
I draw file quite well.
You might want to consider set up a jig for the head to draw file it if you get uneven sanding ( one side higher than the other )
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Hey wait a second…
Garry wrote that book you posted HA HA.
Small world.
“Poboy” is something he would say.
Great guy BTW some of his stuff tricks are in my engines too…
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A poboy could also play with blueing and hand scrapping. Poboy is also a song. I have the best luck with primitive tools. Slow but works…
Prussian Blue, a mirror and Draw filling is my way.
Finnish with a strip off a belt sander.
But yes its slow and steady vice work.
Garry is a great fellow I know him from years back, but we never actually met and I would like to tip a glass with him someday.
We even discussed a Clone for producer gas years ago but I wasn’t really ready to build it.
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Finish off with valve grinding compound on a piece of plate glass.I’ve been told that lapping the block this same way will allow you to eliminate the head gasket. A little aircraft grade gasket sealer supposedly does the trick if the head and block are lapped flat.
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The head gasket most will use for this is about .010.
There needs to be about .030 to .040 bump space between the piston face and cylinder head.
I think using the head gasket would not hurt.
I do lap the heads as you suggest Bruce because I find it gives a head and block a finish that offers maximum grip in a head ( and I have been doing this since the mid 80s on Honda engines ).
As for a sealer if you use a clone or Honda Steel gasket they have a sealer applied to them already.
I find this works real well and most of the time you can reuse a Honda head gasket a few times without much worry on a mild engine.
Here is your typical coated steel gasket with sealer
The other one you see is the thicker GX160 head gasket.
It adds about .060 and will decrease the compression on a GX200.
There are some plane steel gaskets too.
Those I would spray with some sealer just to be safe ( I use some permatex head gasket sealer works well )
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fancy to build your own ignition? 
this might help …
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Yes, this is what we have been looking for to solve the problem of a delay circuit creating a different retard at different RPMs.
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What is your intended generational RPM ?
You want your timing set for that range.
I build clones that turn 7000 rpm and manage just fine to run static timing even though its hobled by the propagation delay induced retard…
I have a hard timing understanding why you would need more range than the OEM Honda UT2 ignition can provide with an manually indexed flywheel set the intend RPM range.
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Sorry, wrote “different RPMs”, meant “varying RPMs” for transportation applications.
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I am still confused why you are trying to make a part that already exists in the OEM parts inventory.
We are still talking about the the Honda clone ?
Yes, Honda clone may be my problem. Sorry for going off topic. Please explain what you mean by “manually indexed flywheel.” Does the Honda have a simple way to index the flywheel? The circuit proposed by Koen allows timing adjustment on engines without changing flywheel position.
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Yes use a timing light and move the flywheel to where it works the best at the RPM you want.
I keep getting an error on this video, but from what I have watched he sets his timing as I do.
One difference is I set a pointer on the PTO side of my engine and mark my primary clutch.
I run the engine under load, take a ride, stop pop the flywheel and advance or retard until I find a combination I am happy with.
This way I know exactly what I am getting and can record it in my log for later as reference.
You should have a log on your engine to record everything about it so you do not repeat mistakes and can trouble shoot issues in the future.
I do not use a key.
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Hi Wallace,
I value your knowledge very much, it gives me helpful insight in finding ways to improve the work i do here.
Here the honda clone exist in many brands, more or less compatible
The way how people uses them here differ as much as people use the same knife to cut there steak or cut the three…
One engine should be able to all what they can imagine 
I am trying to find ways to use the engine as efficient as possible, with the charcoal gasifier ofcourse, under different and or changing loads. Also being less depending on “poor” quality gas when running on low rpm"s
Automatic timing might be an option or could you point me towards even more “fool proof” ?
Popping the flywheel is considered heavy work here
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As far as I am concerned there is only one way to know how much timing is needed and how to achieve your goal.
Koen:
Your going to have to adjust the timing and do some static test of load and rpm and make a table.
From there you will know exactly what timing you need for a given load and rpm.
Then you will have to test the Honda Ignition and compare its performance with the table.
You will have to advance and retard the timing with the flywheel and see where it improves your power and performance and where it does not.
This way you will know if this is the right ignition.
Some thing will have to be done for compression increases and then repeated again for timing,
Every time you change a variable in the equation all the results change.
This is a lot of trial and error until you fond the right combination.
This is exactly the same way I build then a tune a race engine.
Its never a done deal until exhaust all the possibility and analyze the data.
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Would it not be easier for frequent timing changes to move the coil rather than the flywheel?
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Not really, there is no safe way to mount the coil.
Well there was a kit from race parts supplier Raceng.
They stopped making this, and it was not intended for timing changes on the fly.
You could how ever stop make a timing change and put your cooling shroud back on with out flywheel removal.
No easy way to do this, that’s why tuning takes all day lol
Seriously though once you have the tables made up you can fairly accurately predict what timing you need.
I think I see a point coming when I will have to make these tables, but I will only do it for one build.
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My concern: changing fuel in a certain % will also changes the power output from that engine.
So those changes would require adjustments…
Putting that in perspective with a poor farmer in Thailand…
1 engine, 1 pump, 1 gasifier and 1 fuel in combination is not the problem…
Try the engine on low rpm for high pressure or high rpm for irrigation…
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Koen this does not change the fact you need to build the engine and test it.
You need to build a simple to reproduce engine.
I stated before use the 14cc head on the GX200 engine, try 30 deg Before TDC that’s a good starting point.
Make up some tables based on that engine.
THEN try the Honda CDI Ignition with the exact same engine combination and run it through table for power and fuel consumption.
That’s the shortest route to some useful data.
Different engine builds will perform different.
Generally I know more compression will require less timing.
But this will all change with a different piston like the Z4M because the turbulence in the chamber will change and compression is higher…
The 18cc Honda head and the z4m piston are similar in compression to the 14cc with the dish but combustion will be different again because the chamber shape is different.
Now do you understand what I mean by needing to make tables to test different combinations so you can predict how the engine will work?
No one has done this.
I have a lot of experience building these engines but I am not sure about how they will react to the fuel and what changes in timing will give best results.
Added:
What I am saying my friend is you have to design an engine with trial and error.
Its just like the gasifier itself you learn from it and adjust it and change it as you learn until you find what is best.
But use the scientific method of recording all your data and build a table that shows you what works otherwise you are just guessing from one change to another trying to compare what you think is happening to what you thought was happening
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Hi Wallace,
I am with you in this, in fact you’v got me into modifying the engines…
But i have to keep it simple, its not only for myself playing around…
First results, comparing adding H2O vs timing adjustments…:
i realligned the ignition 15 degree and the result is:
same pump now reaches 3300 Rpm with less effort for starting , even under load.
Gain, without water, 500 Rpm, gain vs water is 200Rpm
so , i am definitively going to implement that
The new 160 Honda and clones already have a thin headgasket, so, can’t work on that yet
Next is the CDI, where can i find it as a part ? and what is the cost …
Tomorrow going to re allign the Lifan, but not sure to eliminate the H2O, for the higher RPM’s i desire, a little testing won’t hurt 
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