Hello JO and Max. I have been fairly satisfied with the performance of my build, until I see what JO’s truck is doing. ( never hear from you Max on your build , sorry) So I have started back reading all of the posts you two have had with each other---- Post #1 Everyone wants to start working on improvements with nozzle inside diameter and nozzle diameter etc. but I see Max is more concerned with getting the reduction under control. I am thinking, if I live to winter, I will try to pickup on what Max was telling me about my design. As I read you posts your seem to have a basic understanding of what each is talking about without reverting back to a basic discussion. In the postings somewhere I came up with references to the book Gengas. published by Tom ? from Denver. Is that kind of the bible you two are working with or have you been scipeing with each other?? You quoted Dutch John. I haven’t heard a posting from him since he built his 454. I am serious about improving my truck. I ordered a different rear end today for it. Next is a PWM brake for hybrid. Worked on cleaning the ash out today, again because you two talked about the lower end being so important. It is so hot and humid, I could only work for about 10 minutes then had to sit, but I will keep moving at what ever pace. TomC
Tom, you are right. JO set the expectations high. And thats a good thing! He inspired me for my build and l think such projects with detailed conversations and stages of build well shown are best promotion for people to drive on wood.
So JO, thanks 
Let me step in this little nap 
Aluminium alloy’s are sensitive to H2 and the H2s formed coming with the gas.
Any acid will provoke this, more or less, oxidation… (also depending the quality of the alloy )
The reason why i quit on using carburetors ? Using waterdrip…
You want to be sure ? taste it on your tongue, not a joke, it has a distinct taste…
Jo, by the looks of it… i guess it needs a tiny bit off cleaning but have seen worse…
What do you think is this stuff chemicaly?
My thod is not hydrogen but unreacted water with CO2 giveing a weak acid and forming alumuinium carbonate. Hydrogen shuldnt react with Al unless under high temp and pressure, unless in a ionised H+ form but that is only possible in the reaction with CO2.
But you never know, Al is sort of that cpecial sofisticated kid in the classroom
Yup Kristijan,
your thoughts are more correct, the CO2 in the gas is the significant factor, since the charcoal gasifier has almost none or less then 2%, its less agressive, but in my case i am “borderlining” my setup’s in endless testing ( real life situations with students and new teachers/builders)
It all depends on the gasifier/build/feedstock used, the air moister etc…
my observations are: keep the gasifier between the given limits: 25 to 100% / load wise, then my gas stay’s stable, dry and dust free… once i start playing to explore the limits… moister appears…
one of the many possible explanations: humidity from the reaction to form CH4 after the reduction zone… releasing CO2 and H2O and hotter gas…
Tom, I think if you don´t get plugged and you don´t overheat your reduction is just fine. I know you once stated after fixing your airleak that your performance was close to gasoline. I don`t know how you can ask for more than that.
Only contact Max and I have had is shown in the thread and no bible. Most of the times I don´t remember were I read one or the other. I think DJ quote was from his Volvo project.
Tank you, but please don´t! My head might swell.
I think am in the normal 50-75% power range, but it´s a very light vehicle with a low profile. It does perform smoth at low power and warms up very quickly but 60 mph speeds are only possible in close to flat road conditions.
Yes, this sounds reasonable and confirms my suspicions of a burning airleak or maybe I´ve just been puching it a bit too hard dragging oxygene through my little charbed creating that CO2. H2O is plenty anyway with my tiny cooler. The whole gasifier is probably on the small side, which on the other hand is a good thing, because I can idle forever. I´ve seen no signs of tar. I´ll take a closer look at that white stuff.
Hello, Jan-Ola!
13. of August 2016
One bit of doubt; I have always suspected yout RPM meter.
If you can deliver floating (from a transformer secondary winding) AC 230V 50 Hz to the metering tabs on your RPM meter, keeping the Battery 12VDC for its electronics, you would reed 1666 RPM. (4-cylinders)
If you don’t dare to do it, go to an auto repair shop and have it done.
On a normal ignition coil, the primary swing, when the brakers or solid state brakes the 12VDC, the coil-condensor swing can reach ± 400VAC.
So, the 230 VAC is no breakdown problem.
Europe 50 Hz
Of course you disconnect first the connection to your ignition coil! These test cables go to the meter instead of the coil connection.
Haha! Only by ear I really think it is in the ball park, so to speak. But I will test it some way or another 
Thanks, Jan-Ola!
13.8.2016
This gives a steadfast ground for flow calculations on the road…
Hi, Jan-Ola!
13.8.2016
This makes no sens! Must have read wrong instructions!
My own calculation says: 1500 RPM for a 4-cylinder 4-stroker equals 50 Hz repetition rate.
I was just about t make the same comment
This makes no sence either! I went out and hockey up my meter to count pulses. 210 Hz when rpm meter shows 3000 rpm. Suggests I’m reving 6300 rpm. NO WAY!
Maybe a “waste spark” type of system? TomC
Tom you know me better than that. I won’t let anything go to waste
Sorry for intruding. I’m a little grumpy today. Some country beat our Women’s Socker team and put them out.TomC
Hi, folks!
13. of August 2016
It seems J-O’s counter is not limited to one puls per burst, which counts for ~4.2 pulses/burst… making the 210c/s.
The RPM counter should take only the first puls in a burst into acount.
This “bursting control” in my RPM meter may be behind my first odd setting value?
I have found the package of my installation RPM, but its instruction did not mention anything of trimming. Only showed how to set a screwdriver knob for choosing cylinder count.
It has though another trimmer for RPM, but, but…? Maybe it is the burst-sensitivity control? Trimming it gave a steady reading.
It works in a convincing fashion anyway! Maybe 11% over reality.
I think we can count my counter out. Tested 2000 rpm and a proportional value should show 140 Hz. I got 186 Hz (5580 rpm) ???
Got to do it another way.
I use one of these, they’re pretty accurate.
Thanks Chris, that’s what we’re looking for 