Joni gas generator, version 8.0 (GJ - 8.0)

Joni you now add a third observed phenomena that sees a percentage of the CO fuel gas revert back to CO2 leaving the then free carbons to co-bind into soot particles.

I think the only thing we will all agree on is that the CO gas is somewhat unstable and fragile.
Why. Why. And why now.

Well. Easy enough for me. I only measure by engine power developed in generated electrical killowatts.

Your engine teardown video were amazingly clean for woodgas fueled. So your management for soot must be effective,

I hope this does not become a choice between actual engine power, versus more or less soot.

Steve Unruh

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I think we have problems with translations, since I see that you are not talking about what I think about. Try to translate the original text from Russian.

Это оригинальный текст на русском…-
если в газ на выходе из системы (перед смесителем но после вентилятора) добавить чуть воздуха (у меня это происходит благодаря наличию в охладителе маленьких отверстий для слива конденсата) то газ начинает гореть плохо, он даже не горит самостоятельно (нужен постоянный поджог) зато это происходит с специфическим гулом. Ещё один плюс такой пробы газа на горение, это то что намного лучше видна степень его очистки фильтрами, в спокойном потоке газ будет гореть синим или фиолетовым пламенем, но если добавить немножко воздуха, сразу появляется розовый или красный хвост пламени, который говорит о содержании сажи . Использование такого газа приводит к появлению на дросельных заслонках двигателя чёрного пушистого налёта, а это нехорошо для мотора.

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Joni,
I’m sorry. My bad.
Your translation was perfect.

#1 A little air mixed into the gas makes it easier to detect soot content when flaring.

#2 Soot is bad for the engine

Two separate statements - nothing to do with one another.

This is my throttle plate :rofl: :innocent:

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:face_with_symbols_over_mouth::frowning::face_with_monocle::astonished::confounded::zipper_mouth_face::scream::dizzy_face:this is horror, just a disaster !!! A friend of mine once said about such gas cleaning: - “Brakes and filters were invented by cowards!”

(это ужас, просто катастрофа!!! один мой друг как-то сказал о такой очистке газа:-“Тормоза и фильтры придумали сцыкуны”!)

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Haha, that’s funny :smile:

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Wow JO, How many miles/km has it been since you put the torch to it and burned the shoot off?
I would like to video when you do your soot cleaning.
Bob

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Joni; I have drawn the layout of the components for a flare as I understood them. ( this is my only second language) If this is correct good: if not please correct me.
Doesn’t opening that small air leak, have the same effect as opening the air valve to the mixer?


I placed a manometer in the system. How do you determine how many inches of water to pull when testing your flare for color or sound?
And what JO said about cold air added to cooled gas? My throttle body looks the same as his butter fly and it is common practice in some gasifiers to have to put a torch flame into the intake manifold and burn out the carbon— manifolds on newer engines are made of a polymer and you can not burn them out.
Thank you again for some good information. TomC

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The air leak is relieving vacuum pressure raising due points allowing certain gases, soots, water and tar to drop at a higher temperature. This is what I was doing with the cyclone systems and why I mixed the air prior enter the cyclone series. This is why tar like to drop at the throttle plate. Small area, with engine pulsing back here will create positive and negative pressure pulsing.

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Okay, lets bring the (GJ - 8.0) drawing back to the front.


I have now put put many, many hours into studying this drawing. Some of them I just stared at it. Something was there that I was not seeing. It is so compact, and yet it seemed like it was so huge inside at the same time. It is running a 1.5 L engine? And then it hit me, it so obvious. It has a 30.0 cm or 11 3/4" fire tube? What the heck!!!
I have a 318 cu. in. or 5.2 L engine with a 12" or 30.5 cm fire tube. Duh. Most of the people using the Imbert style design for smaller engines are using 8" or 20.5cm may be a little larger.
Okay are you seeing what I am seeing here.
Bob

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Tom, I just love your Drawing, it is so cool.
Happy New Year to you.
Bob

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TomC da Vinci :smile:
I like your cane at the bottom of your artwork :smile:

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The other thing I have noticed is fuel size. Larger wood pieces in the hopper, and when the hopper lid was open and the smoke flared off, you could see some larger pieces around the nozzles or tuyeres. So what is holding up the wood in the hopper with a
11 3/4" fire tube opening besides the charcoal below it. Do you see it. It is the 5 tuyeres sticking out. This is causing the fire tube to be a wood cooking down pyrolysisation gasifer.
Add the vaccum exhaust to help remove extra tar/moisture vapor, causing the wood to dry out.
I like in the video adding smaller pieces of branches and twigs and then a nice hand full of snow on top.
Nice touch Joni, to prove your point.
The another real important thing here is the filter. It is doing a really good job of keeping the soot down to a minimum. To do this I sure frequent cleaning is required. With the extra filter cartridge on top of the big medium saw dust/chips bags for filtering.
Bob

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Like it says in the top line “IN-meye- 2nd- language”
Happy New Year to You all. TomC

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Happy new year too all, nice designs you have built and share. As many can try your simple starter designs. the wayne keith design i will stick with, it works quite well with many nice features that i can see the addvanteges there in his builds.There is no perfect model, just a lot of different tweeks in designs of anyones choice, Though the book has many good building ideas as being built, great book DRIVE ON WOOD.COM and happy new year again, I enjoy design ideas too too build from and experiment builds as well.

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Imbert probably almost always has over 10.5 "fire pipes if you do according to the description, that’s where I did wrong, because I did not find such a large pipe at the time of construction.

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friends, the picture below shows a diagram of my installation. Let’s break it down letter by letter.

    • gas generator. 2. - filter. 3.- cooler. 4.- Hole for condensate drain and air suction (4 mm). 5.- catcher of water drops. 6.- hole for condensate and air suction (3 mm). 7.- mixer. 8.- engine. 9.- check valve for blowing. 10.- blowing pump. 11.- damper for air supply. 12.- engine throttle valve.
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I studied several books, by different authors, that described experiments with the dimensions of the gasification chambers (or, as the google translator says, the dimensions of a fire pipe). All the authors of the books come to the same opinion: while maintaining the basic rules regarding the temperature parameters in the zone of the idle ring. An increase in the diameter of the tuyere belt (reaction core) leads to better gas quality, greater flexibility and stability of the gasifier, better preparation and settling of the fuel, and higher calorific value of the gas. And, of course, when building a gas generator, it is of great importance to correctly calculate the gas consumption of the engine, which in our case, concerning you, raises many questions for me …

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many of my colleagues from the territory of the former USSR make the main mistake when calculating the gas consumption for the engine and this leads, in the end, to general failure, disappointment and the final transition to gasoline. The main problem of calculating the diameter of the idle ring (throat)
i see this problem with your systems too.
Agree, after all, a gas generator for a 1.5 liter engine cannot have almost the same dimensions as a gas generator for a 4.3 liter engine …

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I think I understand this, but one question, how does the length of the fire pipe affect the gas?
Both the length over the choke and during the choke?

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Jan,
In this book, everything is well and easily described, all the processes that occur in the gas generator and the influence on them are described. It’s a pity, but the book is in Russian.

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