Joni; I have drawn the layout of the components for a flare as I understood them. ( this is my only second language) If this is correct good: if not please correct me.
Doesn’t opening that small air leak, have the same effect as opening the air valve to the mixer?
I placed a manometer in the system. How do you determine how many inches of water to pull when testing your flare for color or sound?
And what JO said about cold air added to cooled gas? My throttle body looks the same as his butter fly and it is common practice in some gasifiers to have to put a torch flame into the intake manifold and burn out the carbon— manifolds on newer engines are made of a polymer and you can not burn them out.
Thank you again for some good information. TomC
The air leak is relieving vacuum pressure raising due points allowing certain gases, soots, water and tar to drop at a higher temperature. This is what I was doing with the cyclone systems and why I mixed the air prior enter the cyclone series. This is why tar like to drop at the throttle plate. Small area, with engine pulsing back here will create positive and negative pressure pulsing.
I have now put put many, many hours into studying this drawing. Some of them I just stared at it. Something was there that I was not seeing. It is so compact, and yet it seemed like it was so huge inside at the same time. It is running a 1.5 L engine? And then it hit me, it so obvious. It has a 30.0 cm or 11 3/4" fire tube? What the heck!!!
I have a 318 cu. in. or 5.2 L engine with a 12" or 30.5 cm fire tube. Duh. Most of the people using the Imbert style design for smaller engines are using 8" or 20.5cm may be a little larger.
Okay are you seeing what I am seeing here.
Bob
The other thing I have noticed is fuel size. Larger wood pieces in the hopper, and when the hopper lid was open and the smoke flared off, you could see some larger pieces around the nozzles or tuyeres. So what is holding up the wood in the hopper with a
11 3/4" fire tube opening besides the charcoal below it. Do you see it. It is the 5 tuyeres sticking out. This is causing the fire tube to be a wood cooking down pyrolysisation gasifer.
Add the vaccum exhaust to help remove extra tar/moisture vapor, causing the wood to dry out.
I like in the video adding smaller pieces of branches and twigs and then a nice hand full of snow on top.
Nice touch Joni, to prove your point.
The another real important thing here is the filter. It is doing a really good job of keeping the soot down to a minimum. To do this I sure frequent cleaning is required. With the extra filter cartridge on top of the big medium saw dust/chips bags for filtering.
Bob
Happy new year too all, nice designs you have built and share. As many can try your simple starter designs. the wayne keith design i will stick with, it works quite well with many nice features that i can see the addvanteges there in his builds.There is no perfect model, just a lot of different tweeks in designs of anyones choice, Though the book has many good building ideas as being built, great book DRIVE ON WOOD.COM and happy new year again, I enjoy design ideas too too build from and experiment builds as well.
Imbert probably almost always has over 10.5 "fire pipes if you do according to the description, that’s where I did wrong, because I did not find such a large pipe at the time of construction.
gas generator. 2. - filter. 3.- cooler. 4.- Hole for condensate drain and air suction (4 mm). 5.- catcher of water drops. 6.- hole for condensate and air suction (3 mm). 7.- mixer. 8.- engine. 9.- check valve for blowing. 10.- blowing pump. 11.- damper for air supply. 12.- engine throttle valve.
I studied several books, by different authors, that described experiments with the dimensions of the gasification chambers (or, as the google translator says, the dimensions of a fire pipe). All the authors of the books come to the same opinion: while maintaining the basic rules regarding the temperature parameters in the zone of the idle ring. An increase in the diameter of the tuyere belt (reaction core) leads to better gas quality, greater flexibility and stability of the gasifier, better preparation and settling of the fuel, and higher calorific value of the gas. And, of course, when building a gas generator, it is of great importance to correctly calculate the gas consumption of the engine, which in our case, concerning you, raises many questions for me …
many of my colleagues from the territory of the former USSR make the main mistake when calculating the gas consumption for the engine and this leads, in the end, to general failure, disappointment and the final transition to gasoline. The main problem of calculating the diameter of the idle ring (throat)
i see this problem with your systems too.
Agree, after all, a gas generator for a 1.5 liter engine cannot have almost the same dimensions as a gas generator for a 4.3 liter engine …
Jan,
In this book, everything is well and easily described, all the processes that occur in the gas generator and the influence on them are described. It’s a pity, but the book is in Russian.
I do not link what i say now to any one single previous statement. These are my observations woodgas fueling engines for working power.
Yes a wider versus taller two zone (oxidization and reduction) will produce a better larger volume of producer gas.
Since 1996, I hot, hot updraft wood stove ONLY with sealed, controllable GLASS fronted stoves. Visually by combusted flame colors a wide active bed area produces better than a narrow tall bed. And actually this was well applied back in the true days of combustion steam boilers using solid fuels.
So Imbert and others in a comparisons; can be thought of as personal computers versus the previous large university, business, governments main-frame computers.
Rules and guidelines for one would seem defiant when applied to the other.
Like using fix wing aircraft lift maths’ for rotary wing (helicopter) aircraft. Each proving the other is impossible. Yet the evidence of your eyes proved they both do exist.
Even though they both use the same air, having to obey the same principals.
So directly answering you JanA, all wood gasifiers must obey the principals of applied thermal-dynamics of TIME (how long of exposure); TEMPERATURE (minimum points must be met and maintained always); and TERBULANCE (this is thought of as simple mixing, although is in realty is a chemical change converting force too).
In a side introduced multi-jet system it is thought a planar across oxygen reaction area must be made and maintained. True in a narrow body system. True Imbert.
In a wide shorter system this oxygen active boundary is downward cone/trumpet shaped. The JONI and the WK.
JanA you are stuck with what you have for now. So suck it active hotter, and raise your T=temperature, and raise your T=turbulence to get the best performance from what you do currently have. Take off your builder/designer hat. Put on your Operator hat and make it work for you.
Wide shallow can be taken to ridiculous extremes resulting is a effective narrow range of producing system. An unstable system.
Overdone temperature systems also suffer from their excessive out of balance T,T and T. Constructed materials killing themselves.
Overdone Turbulence systems also be become very narrow range producers too. Decrease the speed of your Dyson vacuum and it performance falls on it’s nose.
In all things cumulative secondary, real affects, can overwhelm single factor idealizing.
And yes Joni, we here working loaded using IC engines are very aware of minimum to maximum “turn down” ratios of our gas systems.
Long term engine idling gas versus full engine power capability gas.
Gasoline this is usually a 1 to 20 useable engine power ratio. Diesel fueled engines less. Propane and methane fueled engines somewhere in between.
Highly insulated, fully heats retaining and recycling woodgasifier systems I have experienced can be 1 to 15 ratio systems.
BUT. A big BUT here, they cannot long maintain that maximum output.
Another real-in-use factor; Duty Cycle.
You need idle gas, yes.
You need maximum effort gas, yes.
But of far more importance what is the the real continuous sustained power of the engine? Therefore the gasifier fuel supplier system?
Auto engines are by their manufactures rated in maximum effort power. Bigger, bragged, numbers sells more units.
Industrial, working truck, marine and aircraft engines all have a continuous safe power ratings.
THIS is what a gasifier should be calculated to be able to continuously supply.
So your engine is manufacturer rated as maximum of 115PS (85kW) at 5200 rpm.
On woodgas 5200 rpm is useable. Use 4000 rpm. Less than 85kW power at 4000 rpm.
Then ~80% of the gasoline power at 4000rpm for your maximum continuous 100% duty cycle.
And you still must stable idle.
In American common terms: 3 horsepower to at best 60.
Stationary power such as I do we do not engine idle. Fixed points engine RPMs. With power loading in those fixed RPMs. Actually only we can truly gas load and power quality rate woodgas.
Vehicle however is really is best to think/work in what will it allow me to do.
S.U.
Друзья,
Думаю, вы не совсем правы… Хотя и мыслите в нужном направлении. Конечно же я с вами согласен, что нельзя построить газогенератор с границами расхода газа от 3 до 150 кубических метров в час но границы 3.5-90 вполне решаемая ситуация, что вполне согласовывается с моим мотором на оборотах 1000 до 5000, и в нагрузку до 4.200…
Friends,
I think you are not entirely right … Although you are thinking in the right direction. Of course, I agree with you that it is impossible to build a gas generator with a gas flow rate of 3 to 150 cubic meters per hour, but a 3,5-90 limit is a completely solvable situation, which is quite consistent with my engine at 1000 to 5000 rpm, and at a load of up to 4.200. …
Steve,
You know about my engine, good! Tell me, then, what is the reason for the different power of such a motor, because they were produced with a volume of 1.8 liters but with a capacity of 65 kW to 85 kW?