Нere is also a good sample for untreated wood, peat, wood chips and coal
these were produced by the company “Deutz”
Нere is also a good sample for untreated wood, peat, wood chips and coal
these were produced by the company “Deutz”
What you say about BensBookSytems is true TomH.
But perspectives. Ben Peterson is a highly experienced ferrous and non-ferrous metals fabricator. He can and has TIG welded assembled, then finished other’s multi-piece, cast brass and copper public displayed art-works. He has free-hand made stainless steel staircases and ship bows art-works.
So his personal skill translated into his own ideas; with push from me and others to only do in all stainless steel resulted in works that were nearly 100% high skill hand crafted.
He had to go back to his earlier carbon steel days to put up a design that could be common welder man made. Yet still have as many of his gasification learned ideas also.
And made without a plate steel roller machine. Made without a Big flat steel metal sheer machine. Without a CNC plasma torch all-shapes two axis bench machine.
And this last . . . that CNC plasma torch bench . . . you can always tell when a Designer/Builder gets one of these. Then they can program in with ease precision cut parts that can no longer be made DIY.
And then using this new tool to the maximum; Brainiac-Rules-the-Day.
So give credit to those who can break out of this woo-woo, “Look at my new hammer” seduction cycle. Or never enter it.
Joni’s works are all common material; mans hands made. And could be made by most.
Wayne Keith’s systems are all common materials; mans hands made. And have been made by most.
So to me it is no question which is superior:
Systems like the factory Imbert, Deutz, and others with their direct continuous contact of blown hot charcoal against power machine formed metals; or high chromium/nickel refractory castings - which WILL burn out, heat crack then requiring a new “factory” replacement.
Or a 50-100mm thick char-ash self-forming shielding system like the BensBookSystem. Or Joni’s GJ - 8.0.
Systems where only the air nozzle tips, the restriction edge are true destructive heats and flows exposed.
No question. Join the 21st century.
Historic belongs, revered in museums. And once a year antique equipment shows.
Only a real idiot would daily drive a Ford V-8 flat head; or a Buick/Pontiac flat head straight-Eight. Ha! And I’ve know both of these. And even Idiot done it once myself. A stout as hell mid-50’s Dodge flathead 6 pickup truck as a daily driver?! Commuting . . . for a year. . . . in 1971. Shoulda’ just parked this Free-One, and gone early 60’s overhead valve slant-six, for $500 usd even then.
Joni, I am still working through your video’s. May I ask if you are with the engine compartment plastic looped gas supply hose coming direct from the rear of the vehicle?
Or are you using a front condensate catch vessel?
Thank you
Steve Unruh
Steve,
that’s right, I have a centrifugal trap for water droplets installed in front of the radiator. I use a plastic hose only where there are movable joints and a metal pipe is laid under the bottom of the car.
Joni,
May I ask how you translate your posts. They are close to perfect English.
My first google translate to cyrillic didn’t turn out well. Translating it back to Swedish later on, it said I was “driving through the forest”. What I meant was “driving on wood”
I enjoy your posts. Keep them coming.
Joni,
I was just looking at some of your videos and must say that I have not seen a wood gasifier consistently producing such clear gas (with no smoke) before the flare is lit. That is impressive. It looks more like what I would expect from a charcoal gasifier. That goes for the blue flare as well. I wonder what you are doing that makes the difference.
Hi JO_Olsson,
I use google translator, but then I check it with reverse translation and if something is wrong, I edit the text in my native language so that google understands me well.
Steve,
the quality of the generator gas can only be judged by two factors - how the gas burns (with a hum and flash) and the color of its flame. The way the gas burns directly shows how the engine will operate on this gas - the sharper the flash, the more power. The bluer the flame, the cleaner the gas and the more flawless the filter works. I experimented a lot, read books and this allowed me to get good results.
Joni; At some point I thought you said your naive language was “not” Russian, but a combination of something. When translating back and forth to English what language to you select for yours? I just spent some time trying to research “language translators” . Thought I was going to work on Micro soft Translator, but if you say Google works, I’ll spend my time trying to learn that.TomC
If I haven’t said it before I’ll say, " Thank you for all that your are adding to DOW".
Тom,
I grew up and live on the territory where the borders of three states (Ukraine, Belarus and Russia) converge, so we speak a mixed language here. My native language is Ukrainian, I learned it at school, at the university, then I also taught in Ukrainian … Google translator works great, you just need to do its reverse translation and check. If you want to work with a google translator, then for yourself you must use the language that you speak best …
Yup CNC allows us to do things differently. The reason you dont see many different designs is simply because in the day this equipment did not exist. Just because we are doing things a certain way does not mean that is the only way and that there are not better ways. They built what was practical and worked with the recourses at hand. Today it is more practical to do things differently with this equipment. For instance I no longer use tier jets, I dont have to I can cut a plate to do this way, way easier.
Hi Joni,
Your gas burning “hum” is here in the last 3 minutes? The burning gas roar? The “flash” the speed of full flame propagation?
Jan 1, 2018 V8m
Good comparison of your before filter gas, versus your after filter gas.
And then unlit flow gas quiet flow, versus burning gas sound.
I have never heard of listening to burning gas. New to me. I like learning new.
Regards
SteveU.
MattR,
You are commercial manufacturing and selling.
Of course you must do what is least labor, most productive.
Just what I said. Not DIY usually capable to convert these designs then.
You and others trying to kit supply learned how unrewarding that is. The many, many E-mails and phone call support then. By those who could not gas tight weld. Follow plans. Use specified range of fuels. Wanting to burn literal shit. Because the Internet said all-biomass.
Regards
Steve unruh
Steve,
if you add a little air to the gas at the outlet of the system (in front of the mixer but after the fan) (this happens to me due to the presence of small holes in the cooler for draining condensate), then the gas starts to burn badly, it does not even burn on its own (constant arson is needed) but combustion air-gas mixture occurs with a specific hum. Another plus of such a gas sample for combustion is that the degree of its cleaning by filters is much better visible, in a calm stream the gas will burn with blue or violet flames, but if you add a little air, a pink or red tail of the flame appears immediately, which indicates the content of soot … The use of such gas leads to the appearance of a black fluffy coating on the engine choke valves, and this is not good for the engine.
Joni,
I do understand a hot, burning air leak will add both soot and CO2 to the woodgas, but are you suggesting even a cold air leak in the downstream piping will increase the amount of soot?
50% air will be mixed into the mixer anyway. If some of it leaks in earlier, what’s the difference? Residence time?
Joni you now add a third observed phenomena that sees a percentage of the CO fuel gas revert back to CO2 leaving the then free carbons to co-bind into soot particles.
I think the only thing we will all agree on is that the CO gas is somewhat unstable and fragile.
Why. Why. And why now.
Well. Easy enough for me. I only measure by engine power developed in generated electrical killowatts.
Your engine teardown video were amazingly clean for woodgas fueled. So your management for soot must be effective,
I hope this does not become a choice between actual engine power, versus more or less soot.
Steve Unruh
I think we have problems with translations, since I see that you are not talking about what I think about. Try to translate the original text from Russian.
Это оригинальный текст на русском…-
если в газ на выходе из системы (перед смесителем но после вентилятора) добавить чуть воздуха (у меня это происходит благодаря наличию в охладителе маленьких отверстий для слива конденсата) то газ начинает гореть плохо, он даже не горит самостоятельно (нужен постоянный поджог) зато это происходит с специфическим гулом. Ещё один плюс такой пробы газа на горение, это то что намного лучше видна степень его очистки фильтрами, в спокойном потоке газ будет гореть синим или фиолетовым пламенем, но если добавить немножко воздуха, сразу появляется розовый или красный хвост пламени, который говорит о содержании сажи . Использование такого газа приводит к появлению на дросельных заслонках двигателя чёрного пушистого налёта, а это нехорошо для мотора.
Joni,
I’m sorry. My bad.
Your translation was perfect.
#1 A little air mixed into the gas makes it easier to detect soot content when flaring.
#2 Soot is bad for the engine
Two separate statements - nothing to do with one another.
This is my throttle plate
this is horror, just a disaster !!! A friend of mine once said about such gas cleaning: - “Brakes and filters were invented by cowards!”
(это ужас, просто катастрофа!!! один мой друг как-то сказал о такой очистке газа:-“Тормоза и фильтры придумали сцыкуны”!)
Haha, that’s funny
Wow JO, How many miles/km has it been since you put the torch to it and burned the shoot off?
I would like to video when you do your soot cleaning.
Bob