I did some swapping and ended up with this Kohler 10kw generator and trailer.
The Generator is 10kw model 10cc61. Enigne is Ford VSG411 1.1 liter with heat exchanger built into the exhaust. Runs at 1800rpm. Age approx 1990.
Trailer also has a blower and water to air heat exchanger for heating the tunnels. An air compressor, air dryer, air tanks, and a few more gadgets.
Future plans for it are to add a WK gasser and a battery bank. I may also be able to add a wind generator too it. This was auctioned off and was once a MIchigan Bell mobile power unit.
@ Steve U - Do you know where I can locate a repair manual for this? Whats your opinion on these? Are they decent? I have been having trouble finding any real info on it.
I’ve been off-line for a couple of days due to “events”.
I just found this post/topic in the unread back up.
Maybe you could ask Chris Saenz to transfer this into the “Small Engine Users Corner” section. I think it is very much On Topic there.
Very nice looking system. YES. MORE PICTURES PLEASE.
I’ve found the Kohler people to be very good on system information on thier own named systems on thier web site. Later I’ll try searching there - recommend you do too. Hopefully this is not in a proprietory system user info lock out.
Onan site not so good at this. Ford Industrial engine site even worse.
Well from what I do see.
Durable slow speed 1800 RPM system. GOOD. This cost ~2X the price to set up versus an air cooled 3600 RPM system when new. Be quieter and more fuel efficient. Gives you heated engine coolant posibilties for other purposes.
Definatly a four cylinder from the pictured four spark plug wire coil pac and the #4 in the engine model number. The 11 meaning 1.1 liter displacement. And I think the “G” meaning gasoline or gasious (NA or LPG) fueled engine. As in the LRG-425 Ford being a four cylinder gasous fueled 2.5 liter SOHC “Lima” based engine.
Heres where I struggle:
Post 70’s American/Canadian made Ford 4 cylinder engines had the intakes on the opposite side. As a cross flow cylinder head engine (exhuast and intakes on opposite sides) this is most likely an overhead camshaft? Belt driven? This is not a bad thing.
Mid down out the side of the engine below the intake is pictured what looks like an ignition distributor replacement camshaft postion signal generator. Not bad either - Ford did this on thier 4.0L V-6 and others converson to FI set ups. Need this for ignition (and port FI) cylinder to cylinder timing sequencing. Would date this block series as being an older carry over design. Early cast iron is good. I’ve only seen Ford use waste spark coil pac ignition since ~the early 90’s. Very reliable systems all in all.
The gas fuel mixer appearance is unfamiliar to me and seems to incorperate a built in electric fuel "lock’ valve? An intergal LPG vaporizer? Or, is this an actual gasoline carburetor? The wires to a fuel flow shut off solenoid and/or and electric choke heater coil?
I think this Ford Industrial engine may be Ford European or Brazilian sourced. This is NOT so good. NO Ford vehicles in the block series were used here. Where are you going to get hard engine parts from? Water pump, head, valve/cam cover gaskets, etc, etc.
I once had a 1969 Saab 96 with Euro Ford V-4 in it. Great car. Great engine. I surpeized many of my PV544, and later Volvo friends - gas money on street bets. Saab parts were stupid expensive for anything on this engine. Back in 1973 the carb needle valve and seat were sold separatly and was $15 USD by itself - no carb kit available, just individual piece by piece, even for the gaskets. I did find this engine was used in some North Amerocan Ford tractor products on hay bailers and such, and used by some US trailerable air compressor makers. Parts from any of these was always a take it off, match up, and almost just as stupid expensive. This set up did turn me into a very good gasket maker. Got my 90K good miles out of it and went back to engines with more widespread regional usage.
Ha! Ha! Some here knowing me, will tease me still about my 2007-09 mistake into a 900 pound made in India single cylinder cast iron lump engine. A 1930’s British clone engine I got just to woodgas as the “perfect” engine. Sigh. I admit with the cross continent shipping cost I lost $1000. to finally bail out on that mistake.
Seriously if you got this cheap enough then you have to decide woodgas use it up woodgas learning on it; take the risks as maybe a learning tool write off. Or with the current Prepper and Sandy interest markets turn it for a dime now while still running and move on.
Really, really consider pulling the engine on this and template out the crank flange and bell housing to see if you would keep it to find out NOW if a 70’s Ford Pinto 2000CC SOHC German four would bolt up useable. If so then “Use this one up. Wear it out” knowing you could then “Make Do” later. As it sits now you are not having anymore to “Do Without” power for you and yours now.
And THAT is a very good thing!
I looked on the Kohler site a few weeks back and could not find the repair manual for this one. I suppose it is too old of a model for them.
I found out from a friend that the engine is used in several different agricultural applications including Bobcats. So parts should be readily available for it.
The carb is gas but it is supposed to also be propane of NG. Some parts are missing to run on gaseous.
There is a control box that also controls the throttle electronically. Some wires have been cut so I need to verify control board and governor function.
This engine uses a 5 bolt flywheel, newer 1.3 liters use a 6 bolt. I will take a template when I pull it apart.
If all else fails I should be able to still use the generator with any number of engines I have laying around.
Go to the Kolher engine forum at smokstak.com
If it’s anything like the Onan genset forum that is there, you will get all the info and support that you need.
Thanks for the link Pete.
Hi Wayne, I have a 7Kw Kolher gen set from a motor home and have fixed it to run on charcoal gas. The only adaptation I made to the carb was to remove the air intake and put a 1" steel “T” fitting over it. On one side of the “T” is the hose that brings the charcoal gas in while the other side has a gate valve to control the amount of oxygen comming in. The throttle valve is left in place along with the linkage that attaches to the govenor to keep it humming at 1800 RPM. I have over seven hours of run time and have not had any problem with the throttle fluctuating back and forth with changes in load. It takes about 5 minutes from a cold start to get the engine running and the air valve set. Once set though, I rarely touch it until the unit needs shut down.
The first photo is the entire set up while the second photo shows how it is attached to the carb. The linkage from the govenor to the throttle is also visible.
Gary in PA
Thanks Gary. Is this the same generator you were running in Argos? It kinda appears to be a different one.
I dont have a mechanical governor on mine. It is electronically controlled and kinda changes the way the carb works; I think. I need to make time to check this unit over better too figure out how my connections will be made.
This is a “new” generator that I am gasifieing. The one at Argos is a smaller 24V system. Just found out this post was placed in the wrong spot. Wanted to reply to the LP genset conversion. Oppps