My First Design With Electric start

So I cant seem to get the gasifier bug out of my blood, I have looked into it since I was 13 on and off. I mentioned it to my wife she called me insane. So here I am to set myself to do this. Here is the first drawing.image

It is for a 3.8 Ford 160hp motor.

Dimensions/Descriptions
A= 20cm
B= 57 cm
C= 40mm outlet bottom right
D= Glow plugs 5 Attempt at electric Ignition
E= 15 6mm nozzles
F= 19mm air manifold with 3 19mm Inlets

My goal is to remove the trunk lid and fit this into the back of the car. I am hoping to use wood chips and wood pellets as fuel. Possibly corn, It can be found really cheap sometimes.
The grate would be a plate with a couple hundred 3/16 holes.
I thought I might try electric start with glow plugs as they get very hot and they are no different than a bbq igniter. It will have a square hopper for space savings and a round removable hearth made of refractory cement and cloth. So it could be removed and modified and/or cleaned. How does this look? Has anyone tried Electric start? I also was thinking about putting a 12v heater for a diesel in order to try to break the tars apart on the exit more, Would it help produce usable gas sooner?

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Welcome to the DOW S.I. (SystemInsider)

You have put up an excellent defining first statement post.

There is much already stored peer-interchanged information here on the DOW on every aspect of your inquiries.
Use the magnifying glass icon in the top tool bar are search up:
Electric heater starting
Grate designs
wood chips for fuel
wood pellets for fuel
corn/maize for fuel

What you have proposed so far would be an old “book” gasifier for chunked up raw wood. And better be dry wood chunks at that.
A great starting out gasifier hearth to get you accustomed and evolving past the many, many challenges of vehicle driving with wood.
This system will choke-out and be a gross tars maker on non-specialized wood chips; wood-pellets; or corn/maize.

Best Regards
Steve Unruh

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It seems like the parameters is easy to change in this design, so I think it looks like a fine build as the possibility of fine tuning is always there if it doesn’t work great with your wood chips.

I find the electric start is very interesting.
I was planning to use a automatic start system with a timer so the car was ready to run at the morning.
My idea was to use a gas torch, but electric glow plugs would be easier to setup if they work well.

It says in the FEMA documents that diesel glow-plugs didn’t work, but they did never specify why or what they had done.

Good luck, will be fun to follow this build!

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The thing I could see with glow plugs is placement would need to be close to the nozzles, also I wonder what era glow plugs because the ones I would like to use are for GM 6.2/6.5 which are fairly long and are like a 1.25 apiece the last time I bought them so cheap enough to experiment with.

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Again glow-plug electric starting has been tried by many here.
Me too. Struggled with this for 3-4 design changes for a year helping out one fellow.
It only works a small percentage of the time.
The problem is not the glow plug energy. It is the one-place location.
The very best learned knowledge promoted here on the DOW is that wood-for-power is only 25% the actual nuts and bolts system; but 75% a working operator experiences MAKING a system work.
And work every time, all of the time under widely variable states of conditions.

Direct exprence is how the ending state, remaining needed char bed from the previous usage IS was determined by just how the operator ending the last use session.
At that one-point glow-plug location will only be just so much charcoal. Or space hollowed - no direct contact charcoal at all. Or a non-combustible ash clog. Or an impermeable wad of tars-goo/ash collected. Etc. Etc. Etc.
An experienced operator can, and will perceive all of these and force a make-work.
Poke clear. Rod down from the top settle-in.
From the top down burrow-lite.
From below the grate up, lite.

Me?
I learned to screw all of the no-sense slow liting up with too many cold tars being made.
Oxyacetylene torch force lite thru that single point liting port works 100% of the time. Super hot. The hot flame carries clear across the restriction area. Super quick.
Oxyacetylene burns with least amount of combustion moisture.
I am still working on the same tank fills in my back-pac portable set after 10+ years and hundreds and hundreds of lite-ups.
Single bottle MAP gas works ok. Slower. Less across bed penetration. And more liting-gas combustion moisture.

Another experience learned quick starting wisdom is to use lots and lots of sucking, or blowing, air-watts power for starting up.
Less than ~1000 air-watts and your slow, slow up to all zones operating temperatures will tars-make coat and clog your downstream systems.

Fellows.
The gasifier hearth is only maybe, 20% of a needed complete you will need to evolve into for IC engine fuel making.

Read. Study the actual being worked systems here on the DOW to see the why’s of all of this.
Read past the speculators; the I heard’s; and the better-idea talkers.

Proof of merit is always hundreds of hours of year around Using’s. Carving off all of the froo-froo woo-woo’s. Adding only, and keeping only, what is truly beneficial.

S.U.

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