Hey Carl I’m on my phone and honestly don’t know how to link on mobile. You can Google it: coleman 2 watt solar battery maintainer.
I recognized the “battery” problem before I moved up to the farm I have a Lincoln Weld’n’Power that I purchased with a rope pull. I have a portable air compressor with a rope pull, I have a ATV that is rope pull. And then there is one tractor at least that I can crank start. Even with all that I still have to buy a battery or two each spring. It really irks me. I have both 6 and 12 Volt battery chargers that are suppose to “de-sulfinate” as they maintain. I have all my batteries on a shelf and I alter the maintenance all winter. The only one that doesn’t get the treatment is in the truck that we drive. When will they come out with something that will replace the lead/acid batteries, that will lastTomC
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Tom, probably never… they have to have built in obsolescence or they’d not get to sell you another one and make more money… I’m sure they could build a better lead acid battery but from a profit margin stand point that doesn’t make sense.
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The trend seems to be going to 110vac starters. Nice way to skip a lot of problems.
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Is there really ‘NOTHING’? What are those round black cells that you connect? What about the new rechargeable dry cells? What about the new electric / hybrid cars? Some where there must be some hope. I understand “just not ready yet”. TomC ( yes Jeff maybe that is a thought. Take my little two stroke generator around and start what ever I want to use that day. If I don’t use it it doesn’t go bad like a battery. Won’t be so ceseptable to cold weather, I could start the generator in the shop then take it out in the cold to start a vehicle. Hmmmm. I guess all I would have to do is add a converter.)
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Google-farm use glass jar batteries.x
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Hey Tom, In my tractor I use a deep cycle trolling motor battery. I have 3.5 years on it so far. I think the thicker plates give it more durability. It does have less crank amps then a car battery of the same size but it’s never been a problem. I don’t think you can beat the sulphation that gets all lead acids in the end. Just a matter of time…
Personal opinion and all that…
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I am still thinking through collating my experences with the rental Honda EU 2000 before I post up.
Now TomC you’ve been the 2nd person to 'fess-up to having one of those 2-cycle Chineee 600/700 watt generators.
Got me to thinking back to all of the air-cooled 2-stokes I’ve owned and used for power over the decades.
And the fact that just like vehicles with manual transmissions real-world use experiences with these are no longer commonly available to New Millennium folk; or even most Y-genners.
Young guys and gals for the $88-109, USD these 2-stoke generators can be had now you aught to go-get one NOW for on-hands experiences learning.
The Fed-EPA is annual working their way down on engines restrictions and this is going to be a time limited opportunity.
Mine used from new started with a 1960’s Homelite XL-12 chainsaw. Two of 'em. Piston-port type. I think.
A new 1973 Hodaka Ace 100cc motorcycle. Reed valve type.
A new 1974 Kawasaki 100cc motorcycle. Rotary valve with a separate oil injector tank.
(not new) A 1970’s something Kawasaki 500 motorcycle. Piston port.
And my first experience to Never buy a used 2-stroke anything.
A new packable-in 12-24 volt remote charger. McCullough chain saw power head. Motorola duel regulator switchable alternator. Out-in-the-rough - cats, tractors and skidders you take the charger out to the battery, using the same sawgas mix already on hand.
A big-box store $99, new Poulan consumer grade chainsaw. Yep. 200 hours and then a PITA to start, keep running, a goner then with no parts offered to restore…
And a whole bunch of Stihl chainsaws, and weedeaters. These good for 600+ hours with good fuel, oil and NEVER, ever loaning them out! Parts are available - for a price.
Lessons to be learned here folks with these little 2-stoke generators. And an $88-109. buy-in for it this, is very reasonable.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Dad and I rigged up a hydraulic starter for a large engine. Used the tractor hydraulics.
Started two generators today. One that I gave to the parents, didn’t have the heart to take back. It doesn’t get the best care but at least now it’s in a shed. It was started about 3 months ago so not many pulls to get it going.
The second one a relative gave me, funny how that works. Hasn’t run in about 5 years. Put some fresh gasOhLine in the tank and pulled for about a half hour. Checked spark etc… Hard to see with bifocals, things have to be just right. Pulled out the phone and ran the flashlight app. Took off my glasses and stuck my nose next to the fuel shut off valve and could see the word “off”… Switched it to on and after two pulls it fired right up…
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For the nerdy types, here’s some interesting info on lead acid(LA) batteries- LA types and descriptions, energy densities, charge and discharge characteristics, benefits and disadvantages, cost per kWhr and just about anything else you could want to know. FWIW there are newer chemistries with impressive advantages over LA, and impressive price tags as well. It’s just a matter of whether you have more time or money. I know what I have frowning:
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Thank you for the comments. I will Google — farm use glass jar batteries, tomorrow as long as the temp. is staying below “0”
David I have two deep cell batteries in my big Case. One of those went bad in just two years. I am still using the other on the tractor and it is will crank the 500+ cu. in. engine in warm weather. I think the bad one did not get filled with enough acid. Since it died I though what do I have to loose and I pried the top off. Some cells were below the plates and other low. I pried the top off the matting battery and the cells were all “full”. Note; When spending big bucks for batteries, don’t be afraid to pull the tops off and check the acid level even though they look like a non-serviceable batter
Steve thank you for the dissertation on two strokes. Frankly I thought you might cut me down for buying my chinese generator.-- but it is doing the job I hired it to do. You mentioned it so I would like to mention your Kawasaki 500 cc two stroke with the oil injector. I point to that bike when people mention running a two stroke on “woodgas”. With the oil injection, I think it is very possible. (?) I road with a guy that had one for a couple of years.
Jeff the thing that I have learned is buy gasoline with NO ethanol and don’t keep too much in the tank. The ethanol screws up any small engine and particularly if you let it set for a few months with out using it. Putting in fresh when you are ready to use it dilutes the “old” stuff and gives you a better chance.
Kevin I haven’t heard from you lately. That article you posted is GREAT. It will take me some time to digest it === went through the index and can’t wait to get to the meat of the matter.
TomC
Hi Tom, on your case do the positive and negative from the alternator both go into one battery? I have seen banked batteries go bad when one charges and the other does not. Usually they recommend hooking the positive to one battery the negative to the other then hook then together with thicker cables. Did you try adding back water to the deep cycle?
David Baillie
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For those gas-oh-line generators is it best to leave the carb wet or shut the fuel valve off and run it dry…?
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David That way of hooking up two batteries sounds like a good idea— it will keep both batteries in the game at all times. And No I didn’t try to revive the battery with water. It seemed too dry to save. I have been playing with that Epson salts thing but that doesn’t workTomC
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Hey JeffD
Better to leave a gasoline engine system “wet”?
Or, better to leave it dry?
I’ve been bit both ways.
Unfortunately it depends on the system.
And probably ndepends on where your are located. And have availability to find and use non-ethanol fuel.
And forced to use the various blended “re-formulated, clean air fuels”
I’ve been bit on some left dry carburetors having gaskets, especially bowl gaskets’rings, going dry, shrink; then leak terribly then later.
And two years in a row now on the Stihl chainsaws left carburetor “wet” I’ve had to replace out degraded in tank specific moulded fuel lines that have degraded and cracked, then sucking air from the StabilEse fuel treatment I have been using for the set aside equipment. And this with non-ethanol “clear” gasoline.
Sigh. So this year I go carburetors dry again on all.
Dry tanks on the five Stilhs.
Chock-a-block full to the necks on the tanks on the B&S’s, Honda’s and the Kawasaki.
This last TomC because here nearly year around in the cool/cold and always wet rainforest a half full gasoline tank will warm and chill many times breathing 100% humidity air in and out. Internal tank condensation out of that air breathing slowly water loads up the fuels.
Internal metal tanks and cans always rust out here from the insides out. Even zink tern plated. Just takes a bit longer. And the metals shedding, zink-oxides, iron oxide particles then clogs carburetor orifices, injector nozzles. Abrsive wears flow pumps.
All of my outdoor equipent has or get changed over to plastic fuel tanks.
Fuel cans I use now are ALL non-vented plastic. Ha! Use the more expensive thicker plastic and wider bottomed ones! (so they do not medicine ball shape change and fall over)
Even empty "dry"metal fuel vessels here will air breathing condensate collect and
internally wetten if allowed to warm and cool repeatedly.
The plastic’s do not thermal trasnfer “sweat” nearly as badly.
If chock-a-block full then no air space to breath in and out.
Modern vehicle systems now not nearly so bad as previously as they are “sealed” with internal vapor recovery systems. And still most are plastic tanks anymore.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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O.K.
Some of my 2000 watt gasoline engine driven inverter/gnerator use and research feed backs.
First an apology.
The Yamaha 2000’s are not made in Japan. Do use a Yamaha designed engine made in China. With the whole unit made in China. Use reviews still says this is a very reliable unit. My local Yamaha dealer says that they can supply service parts and info on these blue cased Yamaha units.
And the very critical (Thanks Ray Menke!) Amazon users reviews says that the WEN brand unit and the Smart Power (Costco) units have the exact same Yamaha engines and the whole units are most likely all made in the same Chinese factory.
These same users/reviewers say that this family of units are really only 1600 watts capable cold/cool falling to 1200-1300 watts when warm/hot. And this from a very precise 1100 hour off-grid user at above 4000 feet on a pair of Smart Power versions. Youtube Yamaha to Honda comparison loaders say that the Honda has more grunt/guts.
All other branded unit names of Generac, Honeywel, Wesinghouse, Ryobi, Harbor Frieght and all other that I could find multiple souced user reviews on just had too many breakdown/it-broke problems. 20% of users posting up had these bad use experiences. Too high for my money.
Honda EU2000’s the only real complaint after factoring out the “will not start first pull after setting for a year” (what fuel? Ethanol? DID you drain the carb float bowl drain?)
the only predominant Honda complaint was price. Since it is the same price range as the Yamaha AND the Honda is made in Japan I actually consider price complainers as a worthiness indicator.
The Honda EU2000 that I rented from Home Depot passed many of my use tests.
Transported it 27.5 miles home in the back of the Hyundai Tuscan with no gasoline or oil smells at all.
It did start on the first pull. Ran smooth and quiet. Warming up would run 300-500 watt heat gun loads just fine. Once warmed up it would start up both my 8.0 amp and 10.0 amp sh Craftsman shop vacs induvidually just fine. Run one orthe other, and start up and run the other simultaneously.
Then driven “hot” I pulled the two mantnece covers and even the end exhaust cover (see the video I’d posted above) and flet for heats. Ambient air was 46F for the two hour that I loaded ran this unit.
Ha! Nothing was hot. Not even the muffler/silencer.
Here-on I ran it without these cover on. No all that more noisy. 20 foot appaent from the wooden building sides. !00 foot from the open end building side.
Then I severe loaded it on my Porter-Cable 12.5 amp 7 1/4" skill saw. Starts it cleanly. Powers it through 4" thick cuts.
Next my 14" Northern “Chinese” metal cut-off saw. No watts/amps markings. Starts it up cleanly. Powers it trough loaded 3/4" black gas pipe cuts.
Ha! Ha! Die sucker. Die. I carried it while running over to my 15.5 amp, dual cylinder, diaphragm-type, 150 psi, 6.5 cfm, air compressor.
Damn. It would from a zero pressure tank start it up and pump up that system to 160 psi shut off.
It would NOT keep the compressor motoer powered though cycling from 130 low to 160 highs. It would try. and power for 2-3 minutes in indicated overload. Then cycle the engine generator Highest speed to Idle back and forth 2-3 times still trying. Only then going into no AC output, running Idle.
I could force these overloads/stopping with BOTH the skillsaw and chop saw loaded running at the same time.
Panels off in these forced overloads.
To reset I’d have to engine shut down.
Did a lot of hands feeling for heats all the while. Did a lot of flashlight inspecting for plastics overheating, vibration cracking damage. Again none found.
This was a 2013 marked production unt and has been in rental service for at least two years.
So in that time a few hundred indifferent users, not caring, except WORK, You! Work!
Honda is good. But Honda is not prefect. ALL three of my Other consumer versus commercial grade Honda engine powered equipment’s have ALL suffered from bump broken off “tool-less” air cleaner covers.
The GTX31 mini-tiller the churned up abrasives then sucked in trashed that engine one dusty afternoon out working around the blue berry bushes. I will not accept “stupid operator” on this. Stupid engine designer costs saving making the wrong choice. A good piece of equipment has to be able to take some use-thumping, and Timex, keep on ticking!
This Honda 2000 the air cleaner cover IS the right plastic and is retained by a big center slotted retained screw fastener. Has a dual chamber corse, then fine open cell cleanable, re-oil, re-usable filters.
The softer plastics outer houseing as I see them now are less noise dampers but bump/weather protector housings. Forms the carry handle versus vibration broadcasting metals.
I see at least five diffnet plactics used in this unit. Each optimized for it’s purpose.
The actual engine attached pancake generator housing is heavy finned cast, then machined aluminum. It does not get use hot either. Many of the Chinese units this housing is visibly some kind of plastic.
Now this last is decades experienced subjective. By the heats I was NOT seeing versus the fuel-in/power out I was getting 50% conversion efficiency.
My 17 years in the automotive UNITS rebuilding industry was with all diffnet kinds of 6, 12, 24, 32, 48 DC volt generators, alternators and motors. Even some hundred of hours of been to 120 AC volt conversions units in there. These were all 600 to 7350 watt units. 40% to 85% efficient. You CAN feel the heating up differences.
Power-in to power out-efficiency LOSS can only express out as heat, vibration and light.
No I do not believe in fairies, magic pixie’s, sashquash, vampires and/or PSI energies. Any that I met claiming would fall down and bleed, cry just like any other of us normal’s. Our local sasquash was a guy named Lloyd. Had size 18’s. Came from a Finn/Norwegen family. Would overshoe up to scare the tourist for the local bars in Yale and Cougar. (wide spot towns north of us)
Kinetic energy Trumps all in the immediate short term. The Gyrojet pistol failed. Hovercraft are very limited application. Baada-boom, grunt, dig-in overcomes all of the squishies. Hollywood is fantasy and weak.
WE weak, no fangs, no claws humans killed off the giant sloths, mastodons, giant north american loins with teamwork, napped flint and obsidian.
If you do not survive the immediate short term, then there will not be a long term to worry about.
Theses Honda suitcase inverter/gnerators are a shot term transition solution I will be pursuing now for those that I love.
Ha! Ran as hot as I could get it. Covers back on. Gasoline topped right back up to the upper filler neck it did then inside the vehicle transport back the 27.5 miles to Home Depot rental.
No inside the vehicle smells. Amazing.
The suburban living family drives a PT Cruiser, a Ford Focus sedan, a Honda Fit, a Hyundai Sonata, and a Ford Escape.
We Are All on Roads To Better (or should be)
Steve Unruh
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Steve,
Love the thread! How I come to have Honda EU2000i inverter generators…
My family was involved in Katrina- We got 6 feet of storm surge in the house (8 feet in the garage). We had 20 feet of storm surge at our house! In preparation for Katrina, we moved to our office in town that was about 21 feet above sea level. I had a 6500 watt Honda gasoline generator with the 5 gallon tank. The 6500 watt generator will idle for about 8 hours on 5 gallons of gas, “only” 15 gallons a day! I had 50 gallons of gas in stock for the storm. Fortunately, the office was on the same substation as the hospital and electric power returned on day 3. I had a lot of time for reflection and gaming different scenarios after the storm…
I purchased 3 Honda EU2000i generators during the year following the storm. The main reason was the realization that if the electricity had stayed off longer, we would have been completely out of gas on day 4 with no easy re-supply! One of them had the kit to combine two together to make a 4000 watt generator. This generator will idle in eco mode producing 500 watts for about 15 hours while consuming about 1.5 gallons of gas! When a larger load is sensed, the machine RPM increases and it will run for about 8 hours at max load using 1.5 gallons of fuel. I also purchased a heavy 25 fool long aircraft cable and a high security padlock for each generator to reduce the likelihood of theft. These machines are QUIET! you can stand with two people on either side of the running machine and carry on a normal conversation. The other machines are screamers that can be heard from long distances, not a good thing when the grid is down.
I also purchased a 5000 btu window air conditioner to use during the crisis and install it in a window and basically live in one room for the duration of the crisis.
I am installing a largish solar system at the tree farm that is designed to have enough capacity to start and run a large machine tool (mill or lathe). I don’t know about heavy welding, but no question it will be able to run my Miller inverter TIG/stick welder and weld 1/8 inch mild steel stock. I have a 10,000 watt commercial 1800 RPM Kohler generator running on propane (battery charging back up for the solar system). I am planning to build a Ben Peterson stationary gasifier to run a 25KW electric generator that is presently set up for propane. This generator should be able to produce at least 12.5 KW on woodgas and be able to power my heavy MIG welder. The woodgas system will be the backup to the propane generator too. My primary solar inverter stack is 4 stacked Outback Solar units. I have a separate 4000 watt Magnum inverter that will be mounted but not wired to the main system for use in the event of a catastrophic failure of the Outback inverters.
I used the “Buy once, Cry once” philosophy of spending the bucks to get good quality stuff and not junk. Two is one, one is none when planning for life supporting equipment.
Cautionary note: Use ethanol free gas for these generators! I used ethanol gas in one and it almost had to have a carburetor replacement! The ethanol absorbs water that will then react with and corrode the small passageways inside the carburetors! I have stored (and then successfully used) ethanol free gasoline in sealed steel 20 liter NATO gasoline cans (with 10cc of PRI-G gasoline stabilizer per can) for 8 years. Do not store gas long term in unsealed plastic gas cans- it goes bad as the more volatile constituents evaporate and make the gas “stale”.
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Hey Steve THANKS
A couple days after reading your post Fed Ex set this on my porch. I will need hearing aids to tell if it is running.
I have a little two cycle generator I use in the field for running small hand power tools and also have a 8500 watt generator set up for wood gas ( demoed at Argos year before last )
Hope I don;t have to use them much .
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Thanks Steve, for the wet/dry information and other info… For years I kept a 55 gallon drum full of gasoline. Kept it fresh by always using it. Got tired of it and tossed the drum. I do keep my tanks full and the plastic cans full also. Dang stuff makes charcoal look easy. When the big fuse blows I might have a chance but I doubt it because I’m so far behind…
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Naw JeffD, no matter what you’ll do just fine.
You are already there with your downsizing needs.
Your shown abilities to make DO out of what you got around you.
Puttin yourself in a situation where you actually do have resources and the space to use them.
Wa-a-a-a-y back in the last millennium (I’m liking anymore how that sounds and will tortcher yougers/smarters as much as I can) . . . way back since the 1970’s I been making up power sources from push mowers and sidelined old cars and trucks. The mower engine giving the rotary power. The car/pick-up the generator/alternator/regulator, the pulleys, and belts.
Small auto generators and alternators CAN too be ran turned vertical versus horizontal. Pulley end down always. Double ball bearing type like the highline double bearing 50’s Delco’s, Fords and Prestolites better than rear sleeve/bushing bearing’ed. 60’s it was the Motorola double ball bearing alts in AMC’s and IHC’s.
Surprisingly the internal fans Chysler alts work good and long vertically mounted too.
Newr alrenators are much better. But the newer serpentine flat belt systems then a bit harder to work with. Need to build in the spring arm belt tensioner. Older Vee belts systems it was just use engine valve springs as pusher/tensioners.
Low wattage. eh? Not necessarily. Use two charging units a opposed to double up. Advantage gives a balanced side pulling on the engine lower bearing. I even once made up a opposed three alternator system. on a dare.
No weld. Mounted on sandwiched plywood. Did not even use any power source other than sweating for any cutting or drilling.
Most do not realize that push mower rotary four strokes REALLY, Really DO need that blde to be a flywheel! Break the rope, break your fingers pulling over without carry trough mass.
The pulled off front of vehicle engine dampener/pulley assemble adapted over works just fine/dandy.
Run-outs for the RPM/power transfer only has to be in the hundredths. Engine shaft to dampener/pulley hub can be done with split, then nestled tubing. Rolled sheetmetal as the fitting shims. FancyDo - you braze this adapter sleeve up. EasyDo - you JB Weld it together.
Vehicle give you the illumination bulbs. Music tunes with the radio/tape-casset/(now)CD player. Gives you some nice switches, electric motors, at least one blower/heater box and feet and feet of wiring.
A motorhome, RV trailer is pure Gold. Refrigerator, batteries, cabling and an inverter, PLUS MORE. Score!
The only thing really ever been lacking in these make-do systems has been a replenishable fuel source.
I’m calling that solved now three-ways-but-sunday. Charcoal. Wood pellets. Chipped woods.
So this solution-in-a-suitcase Honda system is for those who did NOT think-through, think-ahead and work to prepare themselves with the skills, tools and especially the mindset of “Use it up. Wear it out. Then make do. Or do without.” No. They go from used-it-up, directly to, do-without suffering.
Ha! And nothing saying that these Honda’s could not be fueled on char or woodgas.
Dutch John did well on a 2xxCC fourstoke engine at 3000 RPM 50 hertz.
I did OK at with 342cc four stroke at 3600 RPM 60 hertz.
Two 99cc Hondas matches his fuelgas demands
Three 99cc Hondas matches mine.
And variable floating RPM inverter system totally by-passes all of the PITA Nazi lock step AC synchronous dancing.
Let the Honda inverters do all of that work instead.
Really. Everything does not have to be such a big deal. As directly, as practical, as possible, always wins out.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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