As for the actual gasifier, what size is too much, or where it does not have enough wood gas supply on the Dakota type gasifier? I would imagine that to a certain extent the engine would pull too much of a vacuum for the gasifier if it is big enough. Thanks
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You size the gasifer to the displacement of the motor. @Wayne has some good charts for that in his book.
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Ok, I will be purchasing the book as well as a membership soon, thanks.
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I guessed that 5sp was a strong one, because they used it with everything including the 4L. Thanks Al.
Rindert
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I noticed somewhere that you were working on a Ram 1500 with a 318. If so how did that workout. Would the 318 pull the fullsize truck? thanks
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Hello Ervin .
Sorry to be so slow getting back with you . The computer has been down sense yesterday morning and just got a repairman out to fix it.
The full size 318 ram will work OK , just not as well on the road as a dakota . You can expect 50-60 mph on the flat road.
Below is the building link for the 94 ram that I built. I drove it to Argos about 4-5 years ago.
My son was using this truck for school and I set the gasifier of temperately and have not put it back on yet .
I had an oversized gasifier but if I put another gasifier on it it will be a 12 inch just as the dakotas and my V-10 ram.
http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/waynes-94-ram-1500-4x4-318/850
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got it, still looking for the right Dakota. Might go with a 3/4 ton since I already have two 1/2 ton trucks. Found a firetube that will work albeit a little thick and heavy. That seems to be the fail point so thicker maybe better. Another reason for the 3/4 ton. ic
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Bought a Dakota yesterday that should work for woodgas truck. It is a 1996 with a 318 and less than 100,000 miles. Now I can start on the firetube. Is 18" still the best length? The pipe I have is longer and I have not cut it since the type truck and motor was up in the air. Supped to pick up the truck tomorrow. Any new information on the firetube build would be helpful otherwise I will follow Wayne’s book. ic
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Hi Irvin, the dimensions are the same, but there is an updated fire tube that saves welding all the fins. I think it is on Wayne’s farm tractor build, and one of his truck builds. I will try to find it, or some one else may know. Found the truck build; http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/waynes-95-dakota-318/1148/11
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Hello Irvin.
I have made a few changes after the book . The main one is the air path on the fire tube. Another small one is the bottom condensate gutter in the fuel hopper .
I think 16- 18 inches on the fire tube will be fine .
The latest gasifier I made is here . I can’t think of anything different I would do on this fire tube .
http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/wilbur-smith-96-v-10-ram/3926
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I saw a 2000 dodge Dakota quad cab, I am on a trip in Kentucky for my brother’s baseball tournament. I wish I could go a little further south and visit Wayne and maybe the North’s, but the tournament is on a tight schedule. But I noticed it had the magnum v8 label on it, so I did some research and the 2000 quad cab came with the 5.9L V8. Does this work well with wood gas or like some people said at Argos that the newer systems will just reject wood gas until great adjustment is made? Thanks, Tyler.
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Hi Tyler, @kev Kevin DaLonay is running a 1997 Dodge Dakota with the OBD2 system. 5.9 L on the Dodge Rams are a good engine for woodgas, but not sure if the newer 2000 ODB2 System will work
I know the 2003 with the 4.7 L engine will not work. Someone on this site tried it and did not have good results.
Bob
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I expected the 4.7 l v8 not to work, When I first researched and asked Wayne he heavily warned about the 4.7 and how it was a very tough engine to get running on wood. How much difference is wood consumption affected with the 5.9 compared to the 5.2?
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It being heavier and then the engine being 0.7 L more, will consume more wood per pound, per mile. It all depends on the gasifier build and operating of the gasifier.
I have a 1999 V-10 Dodge standing by to buy. But I am not sure if it will work for gasification. The 1995 and older ones work, Wayne has proved that.
Bob
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Ha! Ha!
I been searching for the best topics thread to put up this excellent EFI/Ignition conversion article:
http://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=149
I put this up so you all can see the rapid evolution over the course of 4 years they went through to get as simple, and durable, and stable of system as possible for their VW Westfalia adventure-camper vans as possible.
Saw the same evolution done by FORD/GM/Chrysler-Jeep over the course for 15-20 years.
I saw the Jeep I-6 4.0L (AMC 242/258) engines go from a distributor signaled points → then Prestolite/Delco distributor mag-triggered ignition → to former distributor/now cam shaft driven stubshaft sensor triggered → to flex-plate/flywheel sensor triggered type.
Same for many Ford V-8 and V-6 systems.
GM/Cadillac systems
This westie article will explain WHY these changes.
Their reference to using a OBDII-like controller interface means an externally flash re-programable self-diagnostic capable controller.
This article explains well that in their California area it could ONLY be a true recognized OBDII system IF they paid to have it expensively certified Lab tested and registered.
This All applies to Dodge evolution system changed too.
Read well. And believe me this one article is a hell’luv’a-lot easier than 25 years of tech having to live these change evolution painful “What?” “Why?” in-production learning-to-live-with one step at a time.
S.U.
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Steve, you have a lot of knowledge in that mixed up head of yours. Thanks for spending the time to put it out there for everyone else to benefit from… Billy
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