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Still have a little more to do on the fire tube, but i can start moving forward with how I am going to mount the gasifier onto the truck using my green now parted out truck as my template to build on. the long plan here is to build the entire system onto a custom flatbed like @JocundJake but i will be integrating the entire system into the bed, engineered as a bolt on and hook up supply lines to the mixer box and drive. This became the plan since I have the green truck to template off of, and in a worse case scenario the white truck gets wrecked, or rust out or whatever the case may be that it is junked, the bed can be unbolted and lift it off as a entire assembly gasifier, rails, tanks, filter and can bolt it right onto any other long bed dodge ram, v8 or v10 that i may come across. No modifications to the truck itself beyond install the mixer box and run a pair of 2" gas lines up to it. Modular if you will
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I am using 3/16 windshield washer hose it works just fine.
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Looks good Marcus. I have been accused of being a fast builder but you put me to shame.
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I think you have more time on your hands, I just have a few hours here and there and I have to spread it out to keep the wife happy. So I better pack as much into those few hours as I can to make it worth it!
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Thanks Marcus for another great video !!
Somehow with all the traveling last week I missed your post until just now .
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Okay just checking here. When you drop in your firetube housing with the grate attached it has to clear the the frame cut out in the lower barrel right? How close is the grate a housing going to be to the lower barrel cut out box with the insulation? 2" or more I hope not less. With the larger cut out opening in the lower barrel to the drop box just above will help. You can off set the firetube a little toward the outside too. May a 1/2" if you need it. I do not remember who did that so there will be more space on the drop box side in their WK build.
Bob
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The grate will clear with a few inches to spare because it will be 15" diameter, the fire tube capsule is 18" and since it is centered in the top plate I canât offset it either way to get more clearance. The capsule has about 1/4" of clearance to the edge of the cut out, just in one very small spot less then a inch long. But that spot is exactly at the point of slope from the drop box/cross over, which you will see what I mean in the next public video how it will work out. I will rely on the slope keeping the char from stopping up right at that spot I donât think it will be a problem at all
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So you are going to have a large area below the grate for extra ash/char. Are you going to do a side clean out hatch like I am planning to do. That will give you more ground clearance on the truck. One of the advanages of build your own flat bed truck no side panels to get in the way.
Bob
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yes i will still have a 5" deep area below the grate for char to slip into, with a side cleanout . Goal is to keep the whole system hanging no lower under the truck then anything from the factory, while having a larger hopper capacity then a regular wk build, thatâs why I went with a side saddle approach to mounting the lower barrel. Only down side is that means the hopper will somewhat stick out the side of the truck since the cab tapers in from about mid door heading up the cab towards the roof line, so there will be some added wind drag, but I figure it a compromise I am willing to make for a little more hopper capacity. And maybe at a later date, that hopper poking out the side might be of some use, but yet to be determined. Now if i bought a manufacture flatbed for this truck with a head ache rack, comparably a seven foot wide head board would be about the same amount sticking out beside the cab as my hopper will so i think to the untrained eye it wont even be noticeable. Like we talked about at the west coast woodgas meetup last year, the idea is to look like any other flatbed work truck going down the road. Hidden in plain view, only another woodgasser would be able to tell something is off about the truck
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That wind drag will help with condensate from the hopper, but Iâd set up the hopper drain towards the center of the truck so it doesnât get so cold the tar gums it up.
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Just look at a all the equimpment trucks on the roads with welders, a aircompressor, tool boxes. May be a back bed cable electric jib crane with a pipe rack for carrying what ever. You are right only those who know what a gasifier is will know. With no smoke it is stealth in plan sight.
Bob
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Interesting you talk about the hopper, at my truck it âsticks outâ some just as Marcus describes, where cab slopes/tiltes? inwards, also as Cody mentions i can clearly feel the temperature difference, at the section sticing out, from the part behind the cab.
I have the condensate drain inner, behind the cab, not something i thought about or âcalculatedâ, it just happened to be the best location, but what Cody says makes sense, better keep that part hotter.
Bob, one nice story about people dont recognize a woodgas truck: some years ago i was at a big car-meet, i was walking back to my truck on a parking lot, when i came closer i noticed two guyâs discussing what my truck was, one of them, a âi know everythingâ type of guy told the other: This is a truck used to paint those white lines on roads, i know for sure, i saw A LOT of them when i visited the USA some years ago, this one is absolutely imported from the USA!
I went ahead and told them this is actually a woodgas truck, it runs on firewood. How do you know? they asked me in distrust. Because i built it, was the only answer i could give, after some woodgas talk, the âknow it allâ guy told me his father had a friend that had a relative, that had a car that run on nothing but water(!), that would be smarter of me to build one of these, it pretty much ended the conversation⊠
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If you use a smaller barrel for your drop box you can connect them together with straight panels sides. This will give more clearance around the housing for charcoal to pass going into the drop box.
Heres a drawing of what I am talking about.
Bob
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I had a guy try and tell me about a car that ran on water. It had an onboard system that would produce hydrogen from water. This hydrogen would be mixed with air and burned in the combustion chambers.
So I said, the engine burns the hydrogen. Okay. When hydrogen burns it forms water. No? He agreed. So then, perhaps we could condense this water from steam back to liquid. This liquid water could then be returned to the hydrogen generator. No?
He would not talk to me after that.
Rindert
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Much like how @JO_Olsson made his yes, I would do this with a in trunk car design⊠later projects. Next video on the drop box will be out soon.
tar drain pipe will be behind the cab to keep it hot just like Cody said, I did this on the Toyota and it stays warm, but I used to small of pipe and it stops up with wood debris and eventually clogs. Interesting though it seems to always be able to pass the water condensates, but tar will get stuck. Larger pipe for this build to prevent that happening
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Yup a big pipe to let the tar and pieces flow into the tar/water condensation tank. With a 2" drain for tar. May be 3" would be better. Lol. For the stand pipe inside the tank for water drainage only, I am going with one 1" this time. 3/4" was to small. Also if you are going to use a brass ball 1/4 turn valve keep it close to the tank as posible for heat.
Bob
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These days I like to talk from a brochure I put together. Printed material always seems to help. I ask people have you heard of âcoal gasâ, the old system we used before world war two? Sometimes I will say <<this is not a steam engine it is a miniature refinery.
Rindert
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Excellent work. Yes I will copy your design much easier then what I was planning on doing. Thanks.
Bob
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