New project! Normans next gassifier truck

Oh I wish, I could get so much done if I wasn’t now driving 111 miles round trip to work! 2 and a half hours of driving every day puts a damper on projects that’s for sure

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Marcus, Those two and a half hours are probably devoted to planning and materials lists as well as driving. Look at all the woodgas testing you have on the 75% with these drives.

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My mind is always rolling while I’m driving, thinking of the next part to swap the next project where ill get materials, and then i look down and see my vacuum ratio is way off and know i need to tinker with it more :rofl: i cant wait to have the dodge on the road and reliable so i can tear down the Toyota again and fix the firetube correctly. And i need the dodge so i can start driving around picking up wood like Mike Gibb does and get really stocked up on fuel since ill need enough to be running 2 trucks!

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What are you using for vacume gauges in ur next build?
I did see Amazon has 0-60 WC gauges for $35ish
But im having a devel of a time finding the 0-30 WC.
Anyone with links ???
(There was one site I ran across that had them @$50+)

I find it hard to believe there are no digital sensors out there that aren’t $2-500 that can measure vacume in that range. I’d build my own gauges if I could find a cheap sensor.

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I had to get the 0-60 gauges as well.

Gauges are their most accurate in the center of it’s measurement, but you’re really using them in comparison of each other to figure your ratio of vacuum demand on the gasifier.

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The 0-30 have been sold out for a few weeks on Amazon, mine are from prm filtration I was lucky to get a pair before they sold out I guess. I’m sure you can get them on fleabay I know that’s where Wayne was getting them before. 0-60 would be fine for the rails I think, but the hopper is pretty low most the time at least on mine truck. I can’t pull the hopper more then 7" even when I’m railing on the truck like a high school kid with a turbo on a single cam Honda civic

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I’m installing my gauges inside the truck so it won’t bother me too much if the hopper only ticks a little bit of the dial. What do you guys think would be a good hose size? 1/4"?

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I’m running 1/4" and its works just fine

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I used 3/8" air line hose. It will not collapse on hard vaccum pulls. I found polypropylene 3/8" works but it is the hard to work with in its stiff coiled state. It was a cold day when I installed it.
Bob

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I can get 1/4" braided vacuum line by the foot at work. Will probably be the first time in a long time anyone has needed it.

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I use 1/4 inch . Very little air is passing through the tubing .

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You seem to be a very good mechanic, I wish I had half of your knowledge.

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I have been spinning wrenches for a living since I was 15, over half my life. This is how every vehicle I have ever owned came to be, I buy junked out broke down falling apart parted out projects and breath new life into them. I actually really enjoy it, piecing things back together like this

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Had a interesting failure on the Dodge, something that I think would be very good information for anyone woodgassing a v10 in this video

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GOOD FIND! Things like that can be a hard find sometimes.
We picked up a 03 civic my boy is using for a school car, when we got it we were told cam sensor was bad and it was in limp mode. I didn’t think anything of it, picked one up from parts store put it in and car ran fine. Three months later it left him sit at school…no spark. It ended up being the crank sensor had failed completely. I did my research and found the cheap ones fail after about a year, you need to replace with a denso or ntk.

Last fall it left him sit again at school. Well long story short… if the temp was below 32 degrees car wouldn’t start, just spit and sputter. IT REALLY RACKED MY BRAIN. It had a New cam and crank sensor and i checked everything I could think of. And everything on the web pointed to fuel pump or water in fuel or filter… it was non of that.

Guy at work has same car and replaced his cam sensor that same year. I found out later his car was doing the same thing and. He had done same thing I had. Ran up to parts store and picked one up… we ended up putting two and two together.
CHEAP CAM SENSOR ARE JUNK!!! We ordered up a couple of NTK cam sensor and both cars have been running great all winter.

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I got burned by cheap parts in my 07 Honda Fit Sport.

One of the ignition coils went out, I bought a new set of 4 from AutoZone.

Well turns out these were a very bad Chinese clone and one of them melted. I had to limp home on 3 cylinders and it was not fun.

The melting coil had also melted the connector so I had to find a connector and solder that in. Got a wiring harness at the pull a part and got OEM coils from the same car. Low mileage totalled.

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Good information Marcus. I have a 2000 3/4 ton Dodge with a 360. a few years back the straps on the fuel tank rusted out and the tank dropped far enough to put pressure on the inlet of the fuel pump and cracked it. I tried to seal it with JB weld. No go. replaced the fuel pump and while I was at it replaced the injectors just because. Turned on the pump. 50 pounds at the fuel rail. Would not even burp. Check the fuel pump relay it was fine. That’s as far as my knowledge of those electronic wonders went. Never got it to run and since it was just a plow truck and I could live without it, it got parked and still sits. No idea what was wrong or how to find out how to fix it despite hours of reading forums on-line. I’ll see if it could have something to do with that cam sensor.

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Marcus and Tom.
Dodges feed to the common voltage sensors groups; out from different regulated voltages pins from the PCM.
A short to ground anywhere on the common voltage feed line will down the function on all of the common voltage grouped sensors.
Lose cam sensor output . . . real common to go underneath and find a transmission sensor harness been installation in/out, pinched/crushed. Real common to find a transmission harness had not been properly hung back up, safe. Then droop slack, stick damaged. Or even drive line worn through.

Marcus someone in the past had shaved back the lead insulation to clip testing leads. Yeah. Gotta’ just love hackers without the decency to re-seal their “work”.
S.U.

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That’s a very knowledgeable speculation Steve, didn’t even cross my mind. When I was deep automotive and early days of the 6.0 power stroke with speed bump/pot hole killed ficm (fuel injection control module) I would all the time find wire probe pierced then corroded to faulty connection all across the ficm harness as that was ford’s Instruction for testing before big dollars replacements. Even I early on not knowing better would toby tape over my puncture holes, to then later liquid electrical tape. Now I avoid pokey-poke at all cost having spent countless hours repairing damaged wires. Paper clip in the back of a connector :+1:

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