Ya Tom, it’s kind of ugly now, but after I make sure it works good I’m gonna insulate it more on gasifier and paint it.lol
Well I ran the gasifier again tonite and thought I’d try it on my old lawn tractor with a 19 hp 1cyl ,prob to small but it worked .
Then I flared it before I shut it down
Ps. Tom I splashed some paint on it😀
Well, that’s just excellent Dean. Your gasifier certainly earned it’s paint. I’m sure Ben Peterson would be proud of you.
Hurrah for you!!
Your engine sound nice. Must still have good compression.
You did appear to gasifier internal size this for the smallest 500cc version. My 17.5 hp Kohler Command’s, out of the old riders are also under, but near-500cc. Once you RPM’em up and load them down like in a 8000-9000 watt generator you will be fine.
And what will help is the outer system insulation wrapping with sheet metal skin upgrade.
Keep the bleed out heat inside working for you. Not your job to heat all of Canada, eh.
Yep. I’ll forward your videos to BenP if you do not mind.
SteveU. Canada speak would be"not your job to heat all of Canada A, not eh. Don’t be a hoser A.
Yep, I plan on wrapping with insulation, I ran 5 nozzles but I sized the hearth closer to 1litre, to run 720 cc twin like ben suggests in a video.
Sure you can show him.
Hey I looked at this generator yesterday at local online auction, it’s an old military 2cyl air cool only 5 kw. Would something like this work on wood gas?
The crank case vent that goes into the intake on a 2cly generator should I just vent it to outside air with a filter for wood gas or can I leave it by the carb.
Vent to the outside. With a mesh sock/screen over it. Plug the into air cleaner hole, or intake hole.
You’ll want the air into the system on woodgas to be all under your control. The crankcase pulsations especially on a single-, and two-cylinder engines, will mess with woodgas mixing.
Thanks SteveU? I bought a 713 cc 15000- 12500 gen but I want make sure this gasifier is working good before I put it on this gen. I would like to take a holiday and come visit some of you guys but government won’t let me in.
See the crankcase pulsations in slow motion at 10:10 to 10:20.
Yeah. As a kid and even a young man up into my 30’s I visited into Canada a lot. Annually.
Then the “requirements”. And my 1976 passport became a problem I just did not want to explain.
I do have the new enhanced pre-screened driver’s license and hope for soon, someday, a new normal will evolve.
I see there is some soot in pipes after I ran that 19 hp lawn mower a few times, do you think I should plumb and reheat air like gasman said and then paper filter it to get rid of more soot or am I over thinking it?
I’m not a criminal but they think I am cause I have a immunity system
Hmmm. To super clean de-soot? Or not?
Dutch John in the Netherlands DID on his DJ3 woodgas electrical gnerator system overcool then engine exhust sleeve reheat and paper filter. His had a Chinese Honda clone engine in it.
I’ve yet to see anyone here do this.
If your settling and filtering is O.K. I do not think you will get abrasive ash thru with the fuel gas.
Soot in the gas will mostly just be an engine fuel.
It will darken and thicken the engine oil. I have sore arm felt it hanging up the modern on camshaft cranking compression release mechanisms. And hang up the low oil level sensor floats.
Able to do this it can probably clog the piston rings into their grooves.
Expect to have to change out the engine oil at more frequent intervals to keep things freed up and moving.
After running when I had time about 4 -5 gallon pails of chunks thru it I looked in ash clean out , I never took any thing out but there’s only a couple inches of ash and 1/4 to 3/8 charcoal, does this system use most of the charcoal?
With low charring woods like conifier woods, yes most charcoal will be used up.
Other woods like solid hardwoods you could activate the grate more and grate splill some charcoal.
Really though best if you keep your best use goals separated.
You’d never want to compromise good safe engine grade woodgas to make charcoal.
And some like Tones new system on his tractor he is forcing to as much as possible have no remaining char but it all made to gas.
Let me expand out on WHY I think the BensBook system is so good.
A lot of it is in the grate system. BenP had for years on his property a mixture of low grade local oak and demoed building woods - mostly old, old Douglas Fir.
Later he on a different property that gave him Red Alder and Vine Maples. Ha! Ha! And PNW lowlands we can get a lot of cottonwoods for free, just haul it away.
These all have a very wide range in ability to make in-system charcoal. The fragility of that charcoal to handling. It’s tendency to disturbed: particulize crumble; Douglas Fir is a great fast power releasing wood; but it is a soots maker wood!! And each wood type has different inherent mineral ashing that has to be delt with. There Douglas Fir is excellent. Cottonwood some of the worst, for clogging.
So BenP learned from experiences of trying that chain hanging grates swing upwards and break up the wood chars. Learned that full out to the perimeter, all-must flow through grates (classic factory Imbert and others) are gas velocity dependent. Grid spacing dependent on engine loading and the wood species used. Usage limiting.
So the center up post mounted grate. Think about it. It forms a cone stack. And evolved to a smaller grate basket with a retention perimeter edge. This allows gas bypassing over the edge. But only after passing through the char-ash cone stack. It has char-to-be-used retention.
The last piece of the flexibility of use solution was the command activated gentle back and forth sifting movement. Full rotations were ash clogging. And ash held in hot char contact will melt and clinkers form. Once exposed then, move it along, and down. Then in the not as hot below the grate - settling out.
So . . . YOU the operator can decide what is best to do. To command time and duration activate, while in gas production.
No more special, best woods restrictions forced by the grating system. No more NO-NO, never-use woods.