Norman can you prune the trees? Limbs have less tar than the trunk wood anyways. Maybe thatās Bobmacās secret is almost all of his fuel is cherry prunings.
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I donāt think I can, I am backed into army base on one side and tribal land on the other, and they have a forestry program with all the land owners around. Oaks are a now oddity in western Washington after about 60 years ago a bug came through and decimated them. A few hold out areas like Yelm where I am at now, but local ordinance cant remove the oaks unless a danger to a structure
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I know Koen uses bamboo for charcoal. I donāt know if the PNW has a rivercane infestation like we do in the South East but that would be an interesting experiment to try as a WK fuel. It being a grass I wonder if the ash content is really high. Might be even worse than white pine. Find people on your trapping route and ask if you can chop some problem trees down for them.
Just spit balling at this point.
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That is right Cody, the bigger 5" limbs and tree trunks become lump charcoal for my charcoal gasifer and rocket fuel mix in the WK Gasifier.
Bob
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I have ridden on almost only spruce and pine all winter, I have nothing else. I drive about 130miles between I clean agg and cyclone. But I have a fairly simple unit, you can do one, should go on a couple of evenings for you, which is so handy.
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Thank you Marcus for sharing your experience with us, for pictures and videos. As you say you still have problems with too much soot, look, here Jan showed one example of solving these problems, I think it is possible with the construction of the grate - mesh, near the hot zone to gasify all this carbon - soot that clogs your system.
Properties of a good wood gasifier - #228 by Jan 
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Hi All,
Re-read J.O.'s post.
He obviously is understanding the differences between fine char particles and post combustion forming soots.
I think from your experience descriptions most of you do too.
But calling it all soots can confuse the un-experienced.
Like when we (mostly Americans) say gas for gasoline. More than confusing. Deceptive to the new woodgas readers.
I even try to say differently from true three active fuel gasses woodgas: versus only 1-2 fuel gasses charcoal made fuel gas.
And I re-fuse-nick to ever say producer gas. THEY will gasify anything. Tires. Old magazines and books. Plastics. Manure-shits.
Only natural grown wood for me.
Marcus soots are like the different tree cells formation. Even more so as has now been talked here the different parts of a tree itself. Trunk/stem wood. Versus limb woods. Even versus lower below ground stump and roots woods.
Your pallets are all trunk/stem woods. And been kiln heat-cooked fixed stabilized wood at that.
Different gasification world once you step up into true sap filled raw woods.
The best being round form limb and branches woods. Billet chunks.
I think nothing will fix pine woods for char particle-lizing. it is the nature of that woods cell walls.
We have as you know virtually none here Washington wet-side.
Doulas Fir is actually a spruce. 80-120 year old limb wood off DF as the best area wood to engine run gasify I have ever used.
Get your self a short walled flatbed trailer and have at post logging harvest limb piles. Lots of hand work. But you now have the chunker system for it.
You will zoom-zoom on that stuff.
Regards
Steve unruh
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First of all, I apologise, Iām probably getting annoying with my philosophising,ā¦ I would, however, like to give my view on the gasification of different types of wood. As is well known, wood is composed of three elements, oxygen, hydrogen and carbon, but in different types of wood they are bound in different bonds, these bonds are broken during gasification and CO H2 and methane are thought to be formed in the hot zone, regardless of the type of wood. Hardwood has a higher density and also forms harder charcoal with a higher density which is slowly consumed and reduced in the process, while softwood also forms soft brittle charcoal which is subjected to high velocities at the restriction orifice, causing the brittle charcoal to decompose and these charred fragments to be carried through the system by the flow of gases. This causes double damage, there is a lack of charcoal in the hot zone so the reduction process does not proceed fully - tar formation and charcoal flecks clog the system. I mentioned earlier that I think this problem could be reduced considerably by a dense grille that would fit tightly in the hot zone , so the heat would radiate up to the grate and it would glow, as Jan mentions.
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The chunker is going to get a few modifications, been having some issues with it but canāt down it at the moment, Iāll be out of wood this weekend if I donāt chunk after work today. I have my 4x8 trailer with short sides on it, but the Toyota will need the back bumper remounted before I feel comfortable towing it, and trailer wiring. More onto the list of to do and no time to do!
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When ur blower is sounding like that, is there a chunk of char in there? I know you have said in prior videos your going to have to take them apart and clean them out. Or are they shot and need to be replaced?
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Just gummed up, the early gasses are wet and heavy with soot. I havenāt had to tear them apart yet, but i have been running on one blower one dead for a few months now, and I blame that on me not knowing how to operate the system very well for the first month or so I had the truck together i would let the system warm up for 20 minutes, scared of early tarry gas and that put WAY longer run time on the blowers and shortened there life. Now you can see in that video how little the blowers actually need to run to get the gas ready for the motor. So now ill pull them out and clean them this weekend and all will be good
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You have learned more of the other 75 % of gasification
Bob
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Ha ha. 
plus twenty
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Once we have establish a good charcoal bed below the nozzles to the grate and we have good layer of pyrolysis brand wood above the nozzles, start ups are quick to putting good gases to the engine. This is why we do not want to burn the wood down to the nozzles, it is best to pull over to reload the hopper when the wood reaches the bottom of the hopper. This is accomplish by watching the hopper temperatures and knowing how far we can go on a full hopper.
You know all of this by now. But for other newer members reading I thought I would mention it.
Something new at shutdown of the gasifer at the end of running, it helps to open and check the wood level in the hopper. It is good to knock down any pieces of wood. If I notice I am down pass the very bottom of the hopper just above the nozzles, Opps, it happens, I will add some wood on top 6" to 10" and let it cook as the gasifer cools down. The next morning this wood has already started the pyrolysis prosses and is very dry brands now. This is something I have noticed when Wayne opens his hopper up. He does not burn his wood clear down to the nozzles normally.
I then check my charbed with my rod and bore a hole for lighting it up.
This is a little trick is that has not been talked about that I have learned, and it works well for me. Because I want to DOW and not stand around waiting. I also like mixing in a little charcoal the size of popcorn and bigger at start ups, this helps a whole lot, my rocket fuel mix.
The reason for this is I have no flat ground to leave my place, it is all up hill. All around me is hills with 6% grade or more. The Columbia River basin is made up of hills up and down no matter with way you go.
I call this The Gasifier Adaptations to your area you drive in. Driving up and down the river stills has lots of hills to climb out to get to the great Columbia Basin Eastern Plateau on top where it is mostly flat land to drive it is about 2,000ā or more elevation climb to the top.
Marcus, big city driving with stopping and going and lots of traffic stops? Was is that. Thatās your Gasifier Adaptation for your DOW.
Bob
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I think Rocket Fuel will be a Must Do for me. Lots of hills and just as many steep hills.
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I run the rocket fuel mix as well, just for aiding quick startup. Early morning in the dark starts i can light up and blowers on before i hit the end of the driveway (maybe 1\2 mile?) i stop close up the rear valve and switch over. 2-3 minutes from light up. the straight woodgas starts with weak blowers i am still starting up in less then 5 minutes with no temperature at all, the gas will run the motor just fine a little low on power for the first few miles which thankfully are pretty flat. Going on 4 days without plugging up now! Thatās 450 ish miles and a lot of wood, i attribute this to @JO_Olsson suggesting to remove the fines, which my chunker now does for me, @Wayne suggesting to upsize my chunks, and @Bobmac suggesting to slow down 5mph, and take my time. Thank you guys, truck has been running sweet all week long! only one issueā¦ Iām out of wood! 
been a very slow week and i have only gotten a few pallets from work, no where near enough for my now longer commute. Dodge is almost road ready, so very soon ill be scarballing loads of sticks and branches wherever i can get my hands on them to keep the beast fed
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Looking forward to ur next update on the v10.
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Yup your daily driving all on wood is a big challenge to keeping a wood supply. I hope a pray with you getting the word out in our area that you will find some other young guys that will want to do the same as you are doing. Can you imagine if You, Mike and I lived within a few miles of each other
Wow, we could have a close support DOW group. Just in my area it would take years to chunk all the wood that is piled up to be burned, and you would never catch up because of the yearly pruning that goes on and on. You need a close by small operation Saw Mill. Almost a thing in the past now in Washington State in our area.
Your chunker can fit on a flat bed trailer if you had one you could go and chunk the wood and haul it home to dry. Something to tink about. Like what JO has. My wood pile is mainly dry wood, haul a trailer over here and we could fill it up with chunked wood using my chunker. Ofcourse you will need the big V-10 wood burner to do it.
I have dry hard cherry wood and you could travel on wood to pick it up. Very little fuel cost just for hybrid driving part.
Bob
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Filming the next fire tube video as we speak 
Bob it will be a while till the V10 is on wood, but Iām going as fast I can! Now moved, I have more of a commute that eats up the woodpile and the time of day, but I have the green truck to now mock everything up on. The white v10 needs brakes bled now that I did the unspeakable 
and deleted the non functioning abs brakes. Then it is drivable, with just a bunch of interior work left to do
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