The anti-seize i usaully by is the aluminum kind, a bit cheaper. says good for 1600 F . not too bad for most areas of threads too seal, though i see the copper is good for 1800 f , a little hotter at 200 f extra temp rateing. good too know.
Tried the imbert type the first time today, seems like it works.
The first image is after about 2 minutes from the start, then about 3 minutes in between the pictures.
The last picture I ran the gas through a paper for about 1 minute.
What kind of filter medium in the barrel? Hay?
No, it is the glassfiber bag, does the gas like this free from soot with hay as well?
Congratulations!! Looks like you are ready to start DOW. What did you use for a blower? TomC
One like this, following tips from Jo
Jan, when I first looked at your photos I thought I was at home. So similar. I use air pumps like the one you posted however 12VDC. I should get a AC version. Outstanding job with your gasifier!
For a short run a big barrel settles most of the soot, pretty much with or without hay. Over time very fine soot buildup start showing downstream. I bet your fabric does a better job. Can’t tell about ease of maintence though.
CONGRATULATIONS Jan, a Imbert Gasifier making clean gas, nice job well done.
Thank you for those happy calls, but think it’s very early to say anything about this one yet.
I have played a little more with it, and discovered that the fire blanket I have as a cleaner becomes dense after a while.
I then read that the blanket should shut out fire gases, so no wonder it didn’t work.
Tried another fiberglass blanket today and it went much better (so far), ran a little longer today, and after a while the gas stopped burning, turned off the fan and looked in the magazine.
I had run out of firewood, was a hole right through the wood in the magazine and just red (hot) in the throttle.
Jo, how long does it take to run out of wood in the car?
On one full hopper I drive for about 1h - 1h 15min, depending on speed and type of wood. I stop and refuel before the hopper temp reaches boiling temp. At that point there are only a few inches of chunks left above nozzles.
Does anyone run with only fiberglass as cleaner, no cyclone?
What I understand was that the gas was the purest in the tests that were done during the war with only cloth, but that they had problems with the cloth getting too hot.
A link to how a Källe generator came into being, only Swedish, but nice pictures.
A link to how a Monorator generator came about, only Swedish, but nice pictures.
From what I understand the problem is flying sparks. Cyclone or setteling area (drop box) shouldn’t matter.
Short question about cyclone. Is it wise to make it watercooled in order to cool the gas as fast as possible?
Maybe, but the water will heat up and it’s harder to cool water then air.
For example watercooled intercoolers for turbochargers have a very low efficiency as the radiator will not be able cool the water to ambient temperature, just lower it.
So it’s only recomended really for short use like dragracing where the cooling fluid will not have time to heat up.
Maybe a aluminium cyclone with fins could be used?
Sounds like the best idea. Cyclones are already known for being efficient coolers. Fins and highly conductive material will maximize the cooling effect. Aluminum pipe could be used with welded fins, or perhaps copper pipe with soldered fins. Cast aluminum would be easiest to fabricate, but will be heavier, perhaps not a significant difference though.
Thank you, Thank you!!
I had a link to a (poor) English translation of that Monorator article, but it dissappeared off the web. Very important concepts in there! Thanks Again!
Många uppriktiga tack!
Your swedish is perfect
@Wayne, did you read that article before you came up with your hopper tubes, or did you reinvent the wheel?