One type of Imbert

Google Translate is my best friend.
https://translate.google.com/?hl=en&tab=rT
:innocent:

3 Likes

Thanks, it is for a stationary situation. Thanks.

3 Likes

About aluminum; Wood Gas Effects on Aluminum Parts

1 Like

Hello JO

I haven’t read the article so I may have stumbled into the wheel .

3 Likes

Hi Joep,
Not sure exactly what you’re going to power. Let us know
what you’re seeking to do. Ok, I just saw it is a stationary unit
so my site becomes something of a guideline for you.
A water cooled cyclone introduces additional problems
in the complexity of the build. For a stationary unit you
can run water to it from your house, shop or hose (seasonal
use only). For a mobile application you’ll most likely need
to plumb in a pump, wiring, radiator etc. My stationary unit has an
air cooled cyclone for the air inlet to the burner. This unit both cools
the outgoing to engine gas and preheats the incoming air. For a “complete”
step by step view of the build and workings of my entire system, see
“my first small engine run” in the “Small engines section” on this site.
Don’t hesitate to “pick my brain”, I’m not Slim Pickens (debatable, ha, ha).
Pepe

2 Likes

Sorry Jan, not hijacking your topic.

Thanks Pepe, red that. Missed the cooling fins. I will read it again, preheat is ok too, maybe better.

2 Likes

Hi, Joep!
28.12.2019

Compact, with moderation, for mobile or stationary use is:

Gasifier, cyclone, cooler with condensing, return to
cyclon-mantel, (for reheating above dew-point ) and warm and dry into a commercial paper-filter.

The paper-filter is easy to blow clean with pressurized air,
IN SIDEWIND, to avoid the cloud!

Latest “innovation” is to build cyclone and reheating mantel and paper-filter “coaxially” in the same cylindrical “bucket”.

This means 3 cylindrical “coaxial” buckets.

The cyclone gets an “anti-cyclone” on top of the regular cyclone; to recover part of the cyclone-loss.

The rather flat “anticyclone” will serve as a common lid for the other coaxial cylinders: reheat and paperfilter cylinders.

Loose powder at the paper-filter may be dropped down through ~1" holes from under the paper-filter “gable” by slightly raising the filter, at inspection.
That powder drops down into the cyclone´s “bottom-pot”.

This way loose soot from the paper-filter can be conveniently removed as one operation when the cyclone-pot is emptied…

The cooler can take many forms: Vertical cooling tubes preferable. Easy cleaning.

Area = 0,5–1 m2 x l x n x 3
l = displacement in liters
n = RPM:1000
3 = All formula factors together

This formula is for “textile” filters, so after calculating it
the personal ambition sets the “paper-reality”!.. Too small means fast clogging!
Max

8 Likes

Thanks, it is almost time for my own topic. Have to reread this a few times.

2 Likes

we know aluminum could be affected by hopper sause, But i bet a good aluminum cyclone or WK heat exchanger after the heat is near the aluminum max temp wood be safe from most of the hopper type acidic sause.Thus an aluminum WK or cyclon may last at least the 20 .000 miles the burn tube last. ? Well it would make excellent heat transfer too incomeing air, while reduceing heat at the cooling rail, and reduce size of cooling rail needed. If it dident get eat up with heat or acidic’s. ? If i had a my mig set up for aluminum i would definitly build one good size WK heat exchanger and try it with aluminum.

4 Likes

Carl Z. was using some aluminum pipe (like schedule 40) for some of his Dakota cooling rails, and they were holding up just fine. I will be using some aluminum for my cooling system because I have obtainium. (diverted TV station scrap). If it/they/them go bad fast, more data for other folks to learn from. I might be welding with JB Weld. (good for 400 degrees F, or more for short times).

6 Likes

Hi, Jan!
29.12.2019

About the SPJ Keinänen´s Monorator:
Collecting the hot, damp, raising gases, (without including whole the silo)
and piping them to an external pipe cooler.
Re-entering them condensed and cool to the silo funnel.

I have described this circulation earlier, hope to find it again…

Max

3 Likes

Hi Max.
If you look at the link I posted above you will find the description on Moneratorn, found it in a Swedish newspaper.
Have you Max run with only fiberglass cleaner, what I understand that is the best to clean the gas if it is alone, without cyclone?

3 Likes

Jan,
The cyclone is the first step in cleaning the gas. The cyclone
is designed to remove the larger/heavier particulate matter
from the gas. The heavier particulate matter is forced to the out
side of the tube and falls to the bottom removable collection
container as the gas goes through the system. You can then direct
the gas to a second finer filtering before introducing to the engine intake.
Filtering is very important for clean gas production. Check out
“My first small engine run” in the small engine section for more very
detailed info on cyclone build and detailed results.
Pepe

2 Likes

Yes, I have a cyclone, but according to the Swedish Gas Book, the filtration rate increases if you have only cloth filters and not a cyclone before.
The problem they had during the war was that they had no cloth to withstand the heat.
So that’s why I wonder if someone has run with only cloth cleaners, would be good to get rid of the cyclone, if it is not needed.

3 Likes

Jan, I think Ron Lemlers 574 International tractor uses a fiberglass batt hot filter without a cyclone.

4 Likes

Mig welding aluminum not much harder than mig welding miled steel,i think alll we need is proper rollers changed and liner size correct, and the aluminum type gas too use. I think some 1/8" aluminum plate would be easy too mig too an aluminum pipe on the heat exchanger.The weight surely adds up on heat exchangers. Probbly a aluminum tank would save some weight too depending on the size of the unit design.

3 Likes

I can’t see why initial separation can’t be done without a cyclone, just as in the old systems. It should all be just about lowering velocity to the correct level. Cyclones are good for rapid cooling, but also cost a restriction to flow.

Max has described the rules for cloth filter area quite well, and if made with the design of an industrial “bag house” filter, should be mostly self cleaning. For a stationary system this seems especially desirable.

3 Likes

Hi, Jan!
29.12.2019

I have no idea why you “insist” on using textile filters directly after a gasifier…

Gasifiers “spit out” glowing bits and particles. During the war charcoal gasifiers had some-kind of “sharp-bend” settlement and collecting before textile filters. Hard times to find and get any metal for cyclones.

But now we have metal for cyclones and filters are in less danger of becoming burned or melted-through by these “flying glow-bits”.

Squeezing metal use for weight reduction does not pay destroyed filters…

Max

7 Likes

:checkered_flag: Tis the seasons too be jolly. Happy new year too the wood gassing designers. Swem.

4 Likes

Hi, Jan!
30.12.2019
Thank you, but you are mistaken; I am looking for my own writing
from years back. With circulating only the hearth-rising “fumes”.

Max

1 Like