Hi Dan,
I have 997 I’m rebuilding, had to get the engine kit from Italy, WOW what a deal this has been… I believe our tractors are the same except for the motor. I’m replacing the hub seals do you by chance know the part number for those?? Thanks, Mike
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Michael I don’t have the part number for the seals written down. I simply measured then and ordered replacements based on the measurements from the local auto parts store.
I haven’t tried ordering directly from Italy I have gotten all the parts I couldn’t find locally from Tom Branch at Italian tractor parts in Canada. He has been very helpful.
https://www.italiantractorparts.com/bearings-seals.html
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I was dealing Tom then he quit responding. His last response was he only orders from Italy twice a year and he was going to place an order in december, get the parts sometime in january so I would most likely not get anything till march. So I decided to go out on my own. I found the rebuild kit, gaskets, rings, valves, guides, injectors, rod and main bearings and a few other items for $350 which included $30 for shipping and I’ll have them next week. The outfit I went thru is Asvarta https://www.asvarta.com/gb/ go to there contact us Aitor Fernandez is who I’ve been dealing with and he understands english quite well. They work strange hours and are 7 hours ahead of mtn time. They have a lot of engine parts you can’t get here.
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I took the crank in last week to get it ground, the mains were toast, took the rods down to .50mm and the mains to the max .75mm. For about 800 bux I could get a new crank from Italy but how much do I want to spend on my Pasquaili??? I picked it up for 1,500 it came with a big snow blade and a rototiller which is what I wanted. The poor thing was gushing fluid out the 2 lift rams and oil out the pushrod tubes also came with a set of extra dual ag tires and rims. I love this stuff…
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Well your into your pasquali for less then I am into mine. The are pretty rare around here. I paid $2500 for mine with a wood splitter I didnt need. When all is said and done mine will be completely rebuilt from one end to the other and repainted for an additional $2500 might be a little less when I am done but I am also upgrading the hydraulic tank and adding a rear remote and down pressure on the 3 point hitch. If you have a loader the tank in the front is just too small. I used mine for about 18 months before the motor just gave up.
When I am done I figure I will have less then $5000 in it and around here used abused but still running they typically sell for about that.
As to how much you invest depends a lot on how much you plan on using it. Here I have a small farm and it makes since to invest in doing it right because I will use my equipment hard and I personally feel rebuilt the old equipment will serve me better then the modern stuff.
Oh the old crank ground to the max is perfectly fine I wouldn’t replace one that you can rework.
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I enjoy working on these old foreign rigs, the challenge getting parts isn’t that bad. I bought mine for plowing snow with the giant blade and tilling my garden. Just now ordered seals for the hubs, they are proud of them 30 bux eachX4…
I don’t have a loader for it as I already have backhoe so I’m going to leave the hydraulics alone. I do plan on adding a multi direction hydraulic lever so I can angle the blade without having to do it manualy…
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If you setup the blade pivot with two cylinders similar to how the tractor pivot is done it will not change the volume requirement for the oil tank. Basically the oil volume is just moved between the two cylinders. Surplus Center is the best source I have found for most of my hydraulic projects.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/
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I was thinking about just one cylinder that extends and retracts
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The only issue I can see with 1 cycle is the volume when the cylinder is retracted needs to be available in the tank to handle it. You should be ok but if it comes up short of volume it will blow oil out of the tank. The loader will do that on mine. Just keep in mind two on opposite sides of the pivot will solve that issue if you find it happening.
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Oh I forgot to mention don’t loose those rims they are gold. I had to repair my rear rims because they where loaded with Calcium chloride and rusted out. You can’t get rims in the states which match the pasquali they are either order from Italy or custom made. I debated cutting the centers out of mine and putting them into new hoops but that would change the tire width and I have good rubber so instead I just had a friend weld patches all around the inside there might even be a photo of the repair here I can’t remember. But without the rear tires loaded and with a loader (I suspect with the blade it is the same) my tractor would just wag it’s tail when you turned the wheel and continue to go in a straight line. That was a lot of fun until I got the counterweight on it. I think once I load the rear tires again it will be ok. My goal is to use it for field work as well as a loader tractor I might have to take the bucket off for field work we will see.
I have tubes in all 4 rims now they are not cheap but money well spent with old rims and old rubber.
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Thanks for the info Dan, I plan on taking the fluid out for that reason, rotting. The extra rims I have are for dual wheel setup, I’m pretty sure I could retro them if the others rot out… I’ll have to keep my eyes peeled on C-list for cylinders. I don’t know a thing about hydraulics but I’m learning…
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I will be reloading the rear tires with Rim Guard. I don’t have the wheel weights for mine.
Around here it is the only product you can get installed professionally anyway so I would have to load them myself if I wanted to use salt. But if you don’t have the weight on the rear end you can not steer the pasquali I have seen that first hand and I don’t want to just leave a counter weight on it all the time that is a real pain and limits what I can do with it. I still believe in tubes even with the new fluid simply because the rims are so old and beat up I don’t want to depend on the beads holding air. Maybe that is paranoid but I will find myself in the woods on the back side of my swamp a mile from the house with it and I really don’t want a flat.
As to hydraulics. Honestly I would order the cylinders you want for your project. If you buy used you will probably end up having to rebuild them with new seal kits and in the end you will spend almost as much as for new. And that assumes the cylinders are rebuildable if there is rust on the inside of the cylinder rebuilding them is more expensive then new. I have one like that on my other loader tractor but it is an odd cycle and would have to have been custom built either way. The link above to surplus center is where I get my hydraulics. You will need Banjo fitting to plumb into the Pasquali hydraulic loop you can get banjo to JIC fitting from Jegs Performance.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Unisteer/668/8021560/10002/-1
I think that is the one the pasquali uses but you will want to measure them to know for sure and the hoses are at surplus center. Infact I need to place an order for all new hoses for mine. It is one of the issues mine where failing do to age so I am simply going to replace them all and not have to deal with any issues going forward.
The pasquali has what is called open central hydraulics. The basics on adding a new control valve is plumb them in serries so take the output of something after the steering valve and plumb it into the new valve bank input. Then plumb the output of your new valve to where the output of the old valve went to complete the loop.
First I would see what the current raise and lower control valve is for the blade and if you can add a spool to the valve bank. Odds are you can’t but sometimes you get lucky.
I said after the steering because in an open center system the first valve gets priority and you definitely always want it to steer.
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Oh I was just thinking for the winter plowing you might be better off with the narrow rims and tires. You will get better traction with a single set of those they also have thicker tread depth on the lugs being true R1. The tread is the main advantage to the duals. It is how the tractor was designed the flotation rims are actually too heavy for the tractor when loaded. I think it was on Italian tractor parts where I read that you have to be careful if you load flotation tires on the pasquali.
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Tubes are definatley the way to go. How do you evac the fluid, take it to a tire shop?? I don’t think I need fluid on the fronts, maybe the rear but I plan on leaving the tiller on while plowing for rear weight I know that plow and frame are plenty heavy…
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You don’t want fluid in the front. The idea behind loading the rears is because the front half of the tractor is heavier then the rear and it needs to be more balanced to pivot correctly.
The best thing is to take the tire to the shop. Old timers will pull the drain plug and dump the salt where they don’t want anything to grow. It isn’t considered hazardous it is the same basic stuff they put on the road. But you have to break down the tires and wash them to get it all out. I had the tire shop break them down for me because I couldn’t break the beads on those. Too shallow of a side wall on the wide tires to get without the right tools. Then I brought my rims home cleaned, repaired and painted them before taking them back to the tire shop to be mounted. Once I have the tractor finished I will rake it down there and get them loaded on the tractor. It is much better not to deal with loaded tires off the machine they are dangerously heavy you definitely don’t want one to fall on you.
My advice would be to try to plow with unloaded front tires and loaded rear tires with no tiller first. If that will work you will greatly appreciate the ability to backup without hitting your tiller on things. Not that I have ever backed my counterweight into something…
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exactly my thinking, I’ll let the tire shop pump out the juice. I would rather drain the fluid from the rears as well, just do away with it all together and put a concrete filled weight on the back to counter the front plow. I don’t much care for my wheels rotting out. By the looks of things I’m sure the calcium has been in there for a while and I’ll need to do some fabing…
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It has been there the entire life of the tractor is my bet. The new stuff will not rust the rims it is chemical safe for them. If you go the counter weight route there are 2 potential issues. One you always have the weight on the 3 point hitch over time that will cause it to drift down. Second it defeats the ability to use the tractor as a tractor with a implement on the rear. Ok 3 things all the weight is on the wheel bearings. Loaded tires or wheel weights are unsprung weight and won’t damage your wheel bearings. I have no fear of the new Rim Guard fluid it is environmentally safe and metal friendly. I have it in my Allis Chalmers D15 loader tractor rear tires. My hay grapple for that one is so heavy I also have a counter weight but as soon as haying season is over I take the counter weight off. Ironically I use an old broken tiller for the weight that and some wheel weights which don’t fit that tractor.
Oh the other issue is the amount of weight loaded tires give you much more weight then wheel weights if you can find the weights that match the tractor.
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Dan- just found this site & thread. I’m currently restoring a 987 (may actually be a 997–it’s stamped 987 but I can’t tell which Ruggerini engine it has). Looks like you did a very thorough job–it looks great. I can use as much help as I can get, so I hope you see this and respond. Specifically: how did you make your own bushings for the barrel pivot? Do you have any pictures of that process? I haven’t taken mine completely apart yet, but it’s got some slop, so I bet mine will look similar to yours. Any advice is appreciated.
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Ben your machine looks nicer them mine did when I started. The pivot on my tractor was broken and repaired making it out if round by the last owner. What I did was simply build up fiberglass the cloth type on the inside of the outer part sanding it down till I had a nice fit between the two. If there are no photos about I didn’t think to take any. I tried to do a pour casting with the resin but that didn’t work it just didn’t seem to stick and harden good. Then I drilled the grease fitting and added one to the other side of the pivot. No idea how well it will work out but I got a nice fit and the old material was not as strong as fiberglass felt like a plastic or paper loaded with grease was all that was in mine before I fixed it.
I still need to get my hydraulics put back together and I am adding a 5 gallon oil tank the small tank on the front was broken on mine anyway and too small for the loader. I will also be adding a rear remote it will probably be slow but in time I want to build a dump trailer for it.
I have pretty much put the pasquali on hold due to cold and a lack of a heated space to work on it.
Hope that is helpful they are great tractors and I would love to see another one saved. I can’t say enough good things about Tom Branch up in Canada without his advice and parts I couldn’t have restored mine.
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