Al, just send your address to “private message” and you will get a nozzle.
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jan, dont worry, make a copy of the proven things that works…we must not all be inventors…everyone has another gift from god…
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Tone, here you mention thin stainless. The inside tube is thick walled, how thin is the cover of this pipe and how much room in between? If you dont want to share, no problem, only reading this is exciting already.
The keyfactor is really dry wood? What are your plans with that? How and why are you doing that? Your gasifier works like a charm already, and with standard chips from the screw? 20% moisture? To make that really dry you need more equipment?
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Joep, when I was welding the gasifier, I remembered you and your laser welding machine several times… Dry, slightly burnt wood, this is a fuel that does not need a condensation zone.
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First, I dont have a laser welder, just tried it. Wow, it welds.
Yes, I understand the dry wood. But now you have to make your wood extra dry. Why or how do you want to do that? Or is your new gasifier just a proof f concept?
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Yes, you’re so right, but I think it’s boring not to understand, I could use it too.
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Runing a mix of charcoal and wood pr baked wood, like Tone, is in essence the same thing. You want to keep the water to carbon ratio of your fuel at a certain level. You can do that by extracting water via condensation, but it takes space. The goal behind charcoal, char/wood mix or baked wood gasifiers is the simplicity and light weight, while geting loads of power out of them.
In essence, you optimise your fuel elsewere and only leave the gasifier to do the sweet work.
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I like this because now when making charcoal in my fire ring with a open fire in the back yard and enjoying the evening, I no longer need to worry if all my wood is turned into charcoal 100%. If I get brands, and not completely torified wood it does’t matter. Big chunks that will not break just put them back into the fire ring to burn again.
I do water quench the charcoal in a tub floating the charcoal this makes sure it is completly cooled.
It also removes all the ashes and they settle into the bottom of the tub. The charcoal is easy to remove with a metal leaf rake. Hit it with a shovel like @Matt does and it is ready to go into my double flute gasifier.
Bob
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Wow is that lower nozzle glowing red still. And it is not melting down. That is some very good steel for a nozzle. I see the baking of tars and wood fines starting to stick to the hopper and firetube wall. Hard to count the 11 upper nozzles. The lower area looks good. How many hour do you have running on this new design? With the lower horse power of the tractor you should never be able to over pull on this gasifier.
Bob
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Bob, this was just an air blow test and I watched the flame. I changed the amount of air blown in to see what it can do and how it behaves with a small amount and a large one, when the flame rises 1 meter. The throttle is consistently good and strong and of course for an engine like my Fergie it’s probably a bit too small and would eventually overheat, but the interesting thing is that it produces throttle for this power without a problem and the resistance through it is very small, I should mention that the sum of openings through which air enters, equal to the diameter of the hole 16 mm.
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That firetube is definitely made of some thin material, it looks to be as thick as an LPG tank’s walls. How much does the reactor weigh? 20kg, 30kg?
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Cody, I was prepared for this question, the weight of this gasifier is 16 kg.
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Wow! Just wow! That could compete with even Joni’s weight management. Should be easy to make for hanging off the bumper of a car, even with a full hopper and not strain the bumper.
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Tone, the upper 11 nozzle holes what is the sum of what size of hole.
Bob
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Bob, all the air openings are drilled with a 4 mm drill bit, 11 holes at the top and 6 holes at the bottom.
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Great results!
I have some experience with stainless steel. I used to install and modify commercial kitchen counter tops and install equipment. I’ve used processes from welding with 1.5mm/1/16inch arc welding rods, MIG, TIG and silver solder. For non-structural work, an acid based liquid flux and lead based solder can be used. Silver solder/silver braze stainless steel works weel. It does require using much flux and as little heat as possible to prevent oxide from forming.
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I added an extra tube with holes to give some thermal protection to the metals in the lower part. The barrel is tapered and the holes face the space between the slots.
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My brain is so full now it’s hurting. So much to learn and for a simple blacksmith that enjoys the simplicity of beating stubborn steel into shape the math is hurting my brain 
Anyway, small steps.
From what I have read here so far I am assuming that where the hopper meets the hearth it must be a tight seal at the reduction zone? In other words if I understand this correctly the only air allowed through must be what is pulled through the hearth opening?
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Hello Timotej, I don’t know if I understand you correctly, this additional pipe, which I inserted into the hearth, fits tightly to the hearth, and I pressed a sealing cord for high temperature on the wall, but eventually ash will also accumulate here. You started the thread about carburettor size and dimensions, well this style of carburettor opens up new horizons, has a very wide range of applications, otherwise not well tested, but I think it could produce gas for engines from 500cc to 1500cc.
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