Red bear, long grass mower on charcoal gas

Giorgio, l thod about this too, when once l run out of gas. My thinking is that woodgas is a no go. Hydrogen is not steels friend. Dry charcoal gas might be kindof usefull, but it also contains nitrogen. Not good either for steel. But if one happens to ferment wine or beer, thats lots of exess CO2 that culd be liquified relatively easyly…

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Interesting, I was watching a video yesterday on purifying or “drossing” lead to cast bullets where they used either paper towel on top of the pot of melted lead or about a tablespoon of sawdust. The point being it is just a carbon additive that draws the impurities to it that can then be skimmed off the top of the pot. Made me wonder that charcoal dust would perform the same task? Pure carbon, draws impurity to it hmmm could charcoal dust be used as a flux???

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Marcus, l have a realy old chemist book that shows how they used to purify metals. They pushed green branches in molten metalsand the mix of steam and gases collects the nasties and floats them to the top. I do this whenever l cast aluminium of lead. Althugh l hadnt done lead in a while. Read: its time l get back in the sport :wink:

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I have thought about this alot. There is no way for the average homesteader to produce shielding gas or to coat rods so that they can be assured of properly protecting a weld. I sincerely hope someone proves me wrong. Until then, there are many ways to jerry rig a electric welding machine but it is useless without some kind of rod. I seldom go to town that I don’t come home with a ten pound tube of rod and a spool of flux core. Of course I seldom go to town.

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I am pretty sure it will.
I have seen something like that on youtube and I will search it out…

Looks like charcoal in there to me.

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I bet you can get something that works. It most likely isn’t going to be as easy or as nice as the commercial stuff, and chances of doing it more cheaply because you can’t scale go down. NOW, that isn’t 100% true all the time.

For example:

This method doesn’t lend itself well to commercial production. However, I am interested in this technique, because I have a bunch of green branches and I have some aluminum. So now Kristijan is making me do some more homework like what kind of branches, how big and do you include leaves?. :stuck_out_tongue: but a youtuber like TheKingOfRandom, lives in an apartment, and wouldn’t have branches he could cut nor would alcoa want to harvest 1000 acres a day of small trees when they can buy a barrel of flux for a thousand dollars.

For shielding gas, the costs just plummetted, you can do membrane separation for nitrogen now, and the cost of a portable home oxygen generator is around 500 bucks, which leaves you with about 96% pure argon. Even if you do fractional distillation to get the rest of the trace gases out, the yield will be much higher and I have seen youtubers do it to try and get liquid nitrogen or hydrogen, although I wouldn’t recommend it for the average person. Nor is it economical because you don’t need that much.

For other things like acetylene, they have been regulated out for safety/liability reasons.

Last, is because they are selling to a much broader market, they want to guarantee it works everytime and consistently. So even if a capacitive water conditioner works, they will sell you the water softener because they can guarantee the works in all situations. The water conditioners are dependent on iron content, and initial water hardness which vary from location to location.
(and yes, I think the capacitive water conditioner is working but it has only been a week), or they aim for what works for most people and not what is the best for your situation. You see that a lot with farm equipment or car tires, etc. where you see geographical/regional differences.

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I have looked at oxygen production and yes it is doable. I was impressed with the set up in this video. but never got around to accumulating all the parts to build it. One of my sons picked up a compressor a local fire department was selling on Craig’s list. It was used for filling Scott Air Packs. Oxy-propane is a good cutting fuel. I have used it alot. Takes a long time to get the cut started but does cut cleaner. It would be good to belong to a community where people could work together to accomplish some of these projects. Working solo has definite time and physical energy limitations.

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Every morning at work my employer has us sit in a meeting and they talk about safety ( talk is free action is expensive )

WE had one day where they talked about acetylene generators, gas cylinders and regulation about their use in mines.
I thought WTF??? is it 1930???

Who is proof reading this so I interrupted the speaker and ask the question where do we have these and what are we using them for now or in the past.
No one said anything and no one could answer.

Here is one of them.

Its not to say its the most dangerous thing to ever grace a shop.
But I would never use one…

My theory someone who had no idea what they were talking about sits and reads mining regulations and spits up talking points.
A talking head with no idea what they are doing but promoted because he/she gave a great speech in a meeting.

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I looked at it before. That is actually the method they use for the portable oxygen tanks people have for medical reasons. Those only generate less like 5-8L/hr. You might be able to use like a well tank with a busted bladder, and a small secondary compressor to get the tank to up to like 80psi then top your cylinder once in a while with the bigger compressor. The oxikit system appears to be made for continuous pressure of 30psi without a tank. So if I was going the propane route. I could build that and not need the oxy tank.

My issue is I don’t have a cutting torch, and plasma torches start at like 160 bucks that also include tig and stick. but you also have consumable costs with plasma and need an air compressor.
https://www.amazon.com/Mellcom-Welding-Machine-Multifunctional-Voltage/dp/B08CDJ31F5/ref=sr_1_5?

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another question to the experts here… what happens when i use electric tools with lower tension as our europe 220 v? they get damaged or only have less power?
i ask because my honda electric gen set has an relative high rpm(fixed from the company)…
could it run also with a bit less rpm without damaging tools?
ciao giorgio

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Giorgio, l newer even owned a gen set so lm far from what you call an expert, but the way l look at it there shuldnt be a problem for most machines, if they still spin fast enaugh for the fan to cool them.

Problem, however, is along with voltage, frequency will also drop. Meaning you will mow have less thain 50hz…

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Giorgio, if it spins at the 3600 RPM that most Honda engines spin at, it is meant to go that fast. Allows the best oil spreading and fan cooling from the flywheel.

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Hello Giorgio, your generator probably has an AVR (automatic voltage regulation), so it reaches the rated voltage already at lower revolutions, similar to the alternator in a car, but as Kristjan states, the voltage fluctuation frequency will be lower, which means lower revolutions on asynchronous motors and lower voltages for transformers (welding apparatus), there will be no change for the drive of collector motors (motors with brushes), as well as for inverter welding apparatus, light bulbs…

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Most of these things have some adjustment in the AVR and the governer.

If you can slow the unit to 3000 rpm and set the AVR to the desired voltage your fine.
Expect a 20% reduction in power for 220v 50 hz opperation…

Most power tools from the Eu will have no problem running 240 60 hz, generally because they spin faster with induction motors you will get a gain of 20% power.
Universal motors are not bothered by a 20% change in frequency or voltage…

As with all things plugs are not going to fit.
You will need to modify the generator

Some applications will be effected by higher heat and friction.
Belt sanders drill pressed ect you will have to watch your shaft speed.

In the USA its pretty common to run equipment made for 380v 50 hz on 460 v 60 HZ power systems with no modifications other than code requirements.
This does not include electronics!
Speed changes have to be taken into account
You can go the other way and ship US equipment to the EU but you loose 20% shaft power and speed this can be a problem.

Some things from Japan have a 100 v 50hz 120 vot 60 hz rating for similar reasons.

No one imports Canadian 600v 60hz equipment and tries to run it on a 690 EU power.
Just doesn;t work

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thanks for all answers…thequestion comes up in late winter after cutting electrically slaughter meat with the electricity given by the honda 200ccm generator…because of high rpm i noticed a bit nozzle “stress” -consume…in opposite to my normally used briggs 200 ccm on the stationary unit. so the question to lower rpm or make some egr or others for cooling the nozzle…
ciao giorgio

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Giorgio if it isn’t too cold, you could run a simple water drip. Take water from the house to fill reservoir and warmth of the gasifier should prevent it from freezing.

If it’s very cold then yes EGR would be an easy solution.

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Giorgio, I know you only use charcoal in your gasifiers, as I said before, I also started with charcoal, but after trying wood gasification, I will never go back to charcoal. At first it seems that with wood it is more complicated and dirty, but with a suitable approach, things become simple. It works hotter and hotter with coal, metals glow, it is necessary to cool it by adding water, the EGR process is pointless in my opinion, because there are already too many inert gases (nitrogen, CO2) in the gas. I would recommend you to add dry wood or beech, hornbeam, oak,… the temperature of the charcoal will allow pyrolysis and the resulting gases will cool the overheated area and at the same time turn into strong clean gas.

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If this is your downdraft charcoal gasifier you could also simply moisten the charcoal. I can never remember the percentage that Kristijan advises, 10% of the weight of charcoal? I know he does it by weight.

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cody: frost is here only for some weeks maybee a problem…waterdrip or also steam injection i will try with my next gasifier with gohin poulenc nozzle.
some here in the forum claim complete dry coal for use, other moisten their coal, experiences complete in opposite…i have seen ,besides engine power, with a bit humid coal the filtering works better because the dust attacs more on the filter …

tone: in the moment charcoal from twigs is for me the best, simpliest and easiest option for to make fuel, because i have no and need no chunker nor cruncher , and the twigs except those needed for the bread oven remain otherwise useless…but if i ever would build a raw wood gasifier, i would it make with your design, i must look again all your posts , all is a bit spreaded and my internet connection is very slow, difficult to load up something, worse with videos, is there somewhere a complete plan of your gasifier design, maybee with measures?
adding dry wood pieces how you mentioned not creates tar problems? i have no restriction in my gasifiers?
in my gasifiers the metal is everywhere protected by enough coal around the lobe, i use also thin metal for the reduction without damage, only the nozzle tip touches the lobe. but i think with wood pieces tars can bypass through the coal…
if your tractor is necessary for self sufficient surviving, best would be you take on stock a bigger quantity of diesel, because i think maybee in short times becomes always more expensive or maybee you also cannot get it more in this end -time…my son found on internet market place some tractors in north italy that runs on gasoline, not with diesel (trattore a benzina).some also with hand cranc, this would be the solution for more independence…
ciao giorgio

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Black diesel or bio-diesel Giorgio. The small amount of diesel Tone needs for his tractor is pretty easily DYI made. Several members here make it and the equipment would be no challenge for crafty guys like you and Tone.

https://www.google.com/search?q=black+diesel+fuel&client=firefox-b-1-d&ei=s8cAY7OYMfC00PEPxdeikAQ&oq=black+diesel&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYADIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzIHCAAQsAMQQzISCC4QxwEQrwEQyAMQsAMQQxgBMhUILhDHARDRAxDUAhDIAxCwAxBDGAEyDwguENQCEMgDELADEEMYATIMCC4QyAMQsAMQQxgBSgQIQRgBSgQIRhgAUABYAGDkJWgBcAB4AIABAIgBAJIBAJgBAMgBDcABAdoBBAgBGAg&sclient=gws-wiz

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