Hello Joseph.
No heat treating but I have the rim sharpen only on the inside so if the rim tries to flex it will flex toward the anvil and rub it . This will limit the flex .
Again I don’t like to chunk dry wood . If I had a pile of stripes or limbs to chunk that may have gotten dry I think I wood wait until they got a good rain on them first before chucking
Mr. Wayne makes my point — the thin truck rim is good for chunking “green” wood. I built one using a truck rim and had to straighten the edge and re weld it a couple of times because it kept bending. I am cutting dead diseased oak. The trees die but stand for several years before the roots rot away and the tree falls. By that time the limbs that are of a size for chunking are bone dry. Thus the new heavier blade. It was not the norm for me to be chunking green box elder. I am faced with drying it now. The oak goes from the chunker to the truck.TomC
Hi ron h is that a 411 gear,i have an auto matic rear axel with 200 gear that might be too high of a gear,unless i add more reduction. how did you get that truck wheel adapted to drive shaft pinion, Nice looking job on your chunker.Thanks for posting the design.
Kevin, yes it is a 411 rear end, out of a 3/4 ton chev. truck. Not sure about your 200? rear end, I would have thought maybe 370 for auto trans. But any way you have to do the math. The way I approached this was I knew I wanted somewhere around 60 rpm’s at the chunker end, then worked backwards towards the engine/electric, what ever you choose to drive it. I also wanted to have a slip clutch so I used the belt from the jack shaft method, works very good. The belt was off an old square baler. I made the 4" pulleys on the jack shaft. As for the truck wheel adapter, 1/4" plate, drilled the holes, pressed the wheel studs in, gussets on the back from the original drive shaft to pinion gear (what ever that is called). There is more to it than that so if your bound and determined to do this please ask and I will do my best to help out.
One other thing, anytime one wants to weld cast steal to cast steal cast steal to mild steal, high carbon steal to mild steal, use your buzz box, and low hyd. (7018 rod). It will last forever if you do it right. Wire will work for awhile but will break in no time.
Ron H
didn’t know I could edit, I fixed the post.
Thanks Ron H, You are good at lining all that steel up that strait,did you use 1/4" plate behind the cutter wheel reenforcement.I got another rear axel that was stick shift out of 3/4 ton ford truck,thats probbly 411 or near there ,I will check that gear.
The best way for me to explain that is look at the pic. Ron H. Wood Chunker - #7 by wolf_619208
you will see that I used the inner part of an 8 hole chev wheel.
Ron H
Found a 1.1/2 ton 411,been sitten log time,I hear the iner bearings sqeeking.sounds good good enough for chunker after cleaning out, and installing new seals and oil,Hopefully,now all i need is your gearing wrote down and used from your clutch and chain ideal, how long is your belt if stretched out, or strait acrost the center,Thanks
Kevin did you weld the spider gears up GOOD?
Ron H
Havent welded yet,gota take apart too clean and refill with oil at least,after welding.I got the gearing wrote down,thanks for posting i can use the axel i have from your set up plan.