Safety considerations

I’m glad this topic has been brought up. It gives me the chance to ask about something that has crossed my mind more than once.
Since I have no previous experience with woodgas processors and I have not yet started my first one, I am completely in the dark on this point.
So here is my question:
Is it safe to pump gasoline into a vehicle that was driven to the gas station on wood?
Are there any other safety concerns when dealing with filling stations and woodgas vehicles?

Steve,

Of course I meant dumping at home - and the largest volume comes post-reactor in a Keith gasifier at least. But you should know what you’re dealing with, even at home. Wayne dumps the yellow hopper stuff on weeds to keep them down, and drains the tar on his driveway. You can probably find a safe place to put the wood vinegar once diluted, like I say it’s actually beneficial.

Another issue is smell. My hopper condensate tank is leaking a little and every drop carries a strong BBQ aroma. OK in the country, but maybe not so in town. The leaks will plug up soon with tar. Till then I am careful not to park on good grass.

Lou
It is always recommended that when handling any flammable liquid that a distance of 20 - 25 feet be maintained from an ignition source. And make sure your build includes an operator controlled valve on the combustion air intake. I plan on using an old throttle body with a pull cable.

Hopper juice can be recycled back into the hopper once the gasifier is heated up and if you continue to drive. Has to be put in on top of a full load of wood and it has to be a good gasifier like Wayne’s to handle the moisture. Done it many times in the Ranger.

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Reviving this old topic as I have a few questions
I read this on Don’s thread:
“Due to operator error, I forgot to close the valve to the engine and when I started my blowers, it sucked air backwards from the engine air cleaner and made a combustible mixture in my cooler tanks. When I put the torch to the flare stack it went B O O M !”
Exactly how did this happen and why? My understanding is that the blower is supposed suck air from the intake to push air towards the engine. How would it suck it backwards? I am assuming that the combustible mixture in his cooler tanks was oxygen now mixing with the wood gas or was it soot particles?

My other question is a rather stupid one and made up of a few questions but I have not seen it mentioned anywhere, probably because it’s common sense for people used to wood stoves that bank the fire when not in use but what happens in the system when parking for short periods of time?

Does the fire bank?
Does it need to be restarted every time?
How long can you keep the engine off before you have to restart the fire and is engine vacuum enough to get it going again on it’s own or must one start with the blower every time?
Do you have to clean out the char bed at the nozzles at every start up?
Basic start up procedures that most take for granted but would be unknown to first timers.
Thanks
Tim

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Hi Tim,
All good questions.
And all fully answered in Wayne and Chris’s book, Have Wood Will Travel.
Also answered in the many, many Wayne Keith videos.
Premium you now have access to them all.

Start with the topic listed as Free Rides Again All Years Here:

Other woodgas drivers have contributed good developed techniques on that one too.

I’m a statioary guy. I rather you got the daily operations for a vehicle from the vehicle guys.
Regards
Steve unruh

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Thanks Steve
I don’t have the book and won’t be receiving it. Our postal system is broken. So all my premium membership means is I have access to the videos and posts and so far after a good few days sitting and watching and sifting through everything I haven’t as yet seen any explanation for my questions raised.
And trust me, sifting through over 800 superfluous comments on a long thread for one vital piece of information can be frustrating.
Thanks for the video link. Will watch it shortly.
Just found the learn to drive series. Will go through that too

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Hi Timothy, different systems differ some, but
I’d say normally 1-3 hours depending on how well heated the gasifier was and how tight your shut-off valves and filler lid are.

Within the above timeframe the gasifier can be pullstarted with motor vacuum, if you sacrifice a squirt of gasoline.

Quite the opposite. It’s important not to.
The ramaining charcoal is your lightup base and also absolutely necessary to be able to produce clean gas.

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Thanks Jan That really helps a lot.

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Good morning Tim.

I think the term banking the fire would be shutting down the system so oxygen cannot get to the fire and burn it out. I think this will depend on how tight the system is sealed and the ability to shut it down.

When I am using hard wood fuel I expect to restart without relighting for 5-6 hours . ( if the gasifier was up to normal temps ) This start is from the motor drafting the gasifier.

The furthest I drive without dumping the ash is about 700 miles ( driving from Argos Indiana home each year ) .

Short trips and several startups about half that distance or less .

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Hey Time .

This is starting back up without using the blowers but using just a little gasoline

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“When I am using hard wood fuel I expect to restart without relighting for 5-6 hours . ( if the gasifier was up to normal temps ) This start is from the motor drafting the gasifier.”

Thanks Wayne. That is quite surprising. I didn’t expect that. I know that I am going to have to learn from my own experiences and the woods that grow in my country. But I can at least get a ball park idea from the experiences of others to start with. I just automatically assumed that I would have to restart the whole startup process from scratch every time I stopped.

Am I correct in assuming that every time you stop you must close the gas line valve to the engine?
Have you used wood gas in 4 wheel drive situations? Is it viable for off road?

Hello Tim .

I hardly ever close my wood gas valves but do close my air mix . In a way that is shutting down any air flow because the air can’t go out or in the air breather / mixing pot .

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Thanks Wayne. That is some impressive towing. That’s about all I need for what I have in mind. anything above that is bonus. Love the sound of that engine

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Tim

I would consider my dodge Dakotas useless for off road operation .

Will let you make up your on mind on the work truck :blush:

No gasoline involved

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I am not familiar with your vehicle brands Wayne. I am assuming the one towing the tractor was the Dakota?
That V 10 is impressive. That trailer and hay was what -2.5 tonnes?
Are the 4x4 and if so was the towing high range or low range?

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He was using the Dodge Ram 2500 V10 for towing the tractor. His Dakota is a little Ute to put it in Aussie terms, I don’t know if people in SA use that term.

The Dakota is about the same size as the old Toyota Hilux but with a 5.2L V8.

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Thanks Cody. We call them a Bakkie pronounced Bucky. It’s a Afrikaner term and was derived from what they call a bak. Also a dutch term for a large enclosed area that carries stuff.

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Tim

I like to think of the dodge dakota as a car with pickup bed and a big :blush: motor. Not a work truck

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LMAO but you Americans like your big trucks. We have a few RAMS driving around in my town. My disco 1 is like a hotwheel in comparison

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